Your cruising guide to Mauritius
by Riviera Australia 23 Sep 11:06 BST
Riviera 72 Sports Motor Yacht Le Mercœur anchored © Riviera Australia
Mark Twain once wrote "You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; heaven was copied after Mauritius."
Before we describe a voyage of exploration around the 180-nautical-mile coastline of Mauritius and in a separate article the Cargados Carajos Shoal, some history and perspective of this paradise seems worthwhile.
Mauritius is a sub-tropical island nation in the western Indian Ocean. About half the size of Kangaroo Island in South Australia or Long Island in New York. The island has a population of a little more than one million and lies some 600 nautical miles to the east of the large island of Madagascar off the southern African coast.
The capital city of Mauritius, Port Louis, lies on the north-west coast and is home to about 140,000 people. It is a vibrant city reflecting local, British and French cultures in its architecture. The French colonised the island in 1715 but British forces invaded and took control in 1810. In 1968 Britain granted Mauritius independence.
The island of Mauritius and nearby islands offer an enchanting opportunity to explore secluded beaches, snorkel among vibrant marine life or marvel at historical ruins. Every moment offers unforgettable memories.
The best way to discover the wonders of the island and a spectacular outlying shoal, is by motor yacht.
Arriving at the island's international airport, we made our way to Trou d'Eau Douce, a charming fishing village on the east coast of the island with picturesque streets, corrugated iron huts and a vibrant community. Despite its growing popularity among tourists, the village has retained its rustic authenticity.
The village is also the base for the spectacular Riviera 72 Sports Motor Yacht Le Mercœur, which would be home for us and a crew of three for two-and-a-half weeks of exploring the coastline and bays of the island and then to venture more than 200 nautical miles north to the fascinating Cargados Carajos Shoal.
Riviera's 72 Sports Motor Yacht offers a large cockpit that would be well suited to fishing during the adventure. She has a covered alfresco deck and long-range capability. Features include a fabulous foredeck entertainment area and four-sided enclosed flybridge with internal stairs. Le Mercœur is configured with four staterooms and three bathrooms. The luxurious master suite is amidships with a crew cabin aft.
Le Mercœur is available for charter through the yacht's charter company as well as through several of the five-star resorts on the island.
She includes a range of special modifications designed for the unique challenges of Mauritius and outer island cruising.
There are very few places to re-fuel around Mauritius and none at the Shoal so she is fitted with long-range fuel tanks. The flybridge roof holds photovoltaic panels in place of a sunroof, adding electrical power to the yacht's battery banks when the yacht is at anchor.
Redundancy was a priority during the build of Le Mercœur. She includes twin identical generators, twin stabiliser systems - Humphree and Seakeeper - and twin pumps where feasible. She has twin water makers, additional bilge pumps and extra battery chargers to enhance autonomy.
The yacht combines reliability, autonomy, and heavy-duty performance with the luxurious finish expected of Riviera motor yachts.
Flat Island, Îlot Gabriel and Baie aux Tortues (Turtle Bay)
With crew and guests settled on board, Le Mercœur set out on a 90-minute cruise beyond the northern tip of Mauritius to arrive at a haven of pristine beauty, Flat Island, uninhabited save for a small coast guard station. Anchored in the island's lee, we revelled in the crystal-clear waters that are perfect for snorkelling. We witnessed vibrant coral reefs and marine life flourishing just below the surface.
The following morning, a short run aboard Le Mercœur's tender - complete with a sun-shading canopy - took us to the tranquillity of Îlot Gabriel, a secluded lagoon accessible only by smaller boats. A peaceful stroll along the beach was followed by a swim with turtles before the area became busy with visitors.
Later, the crew steered the yacht to Baie aux Tortues (Turtle Bay) for the night. This is a well-protected anchorage on the north-west coast of Mauritius. This picturesque bay offered a chance to unwind and enjoy nature's serenity.
Albion Cliffs, Little Black River and Crystal Rock
The morning began with some fishing for crew and guests as Le Mercœur cruised slowly along the west coast, ensuring a fresh catch for the galley. Passing the nation's capital, Port Louis, the crew anchored for lunch around midday near the Albion Cliffs, offering stunning views of dramatic rock formations against the azure waters. This area is home to the picturesque Pointe aux Caves red-and-white striped lighthouse that was opened in 1910 and continues to guide incoming ships into the Port Louis harbour. About four kilometres north of the Albion Lighthouse, Montagne Zako is one of the favourite spots in Mauritius for cliff jumping. The highest point is 15 metres above the sea but there is a range of smaller sized cliffs from which the less brave may launch themselves into the aquamarine waters.
Post-lunch, the crew steered Le Mercœur to Little Black River or, as the locals name it, Petite Rivière Noire, a secluded bay surrounded by lush nature. This is a beautiful, sheltered anchorage in a bay that remains virtually undeveloped. The water is muddy at the river mouth as it is surrounded by mangroves. Safely anchored, we took the tender for a 10-minute ride to Crystal Rock where the water is turquoise blue, crystal clear and full of sea life. With the day tourists safely back on shore, we had the rock to experience for ourselves. The more adventurous among our group climbed on the rock from the tender and dived into the water, making for a great photographic memory.
The day concluded with delightful sundowners at the iconic Rock, where we enjoyed the atmosphere without another soul in sight.
Ile de la Passe
We began the day snorkelling in an aquarium-like spot just inside the reef that protects this bay from the ocean. It was a quick run in the tender of little more than a nautical mile and well worthwhile. The underwater world here is teeming with colourful fish and coral, offering a visual feast for nature lovers.
After lunch, we navigated around the rugged south coast, known for its wild and untouched beauty. With no lagoons in which to anchor, Le Mercœur cruised close to the shoreline and dramatic cliffs, offering a rare perspective of Mauritius. It is just as well that our skipper is both highly skilled and experienced.
By sunset, we arrived at Ile de la Passe, a historical island with ruins of an old fort. This rocky islet, located in the magnificent bay of Grand Port, was used to guard the entrance to the bay. The French built two batteries, barracks and a kitchen and, at the beginning of the 19th century, a red ball furnace which is now one of the best preserved in the world. Red ball furnaces were used to heat cannonballs to a "cherry red" temperature, essentially making them so hot that they could be fired at enemy ships to ignite the wooden timbers upon impact. The island is the site of a significant battle in 1810 between the French and British armed forces.
The blend of history and natural beauty here is awe-inspiring.
Îlot Flamand
The final day of Le Mercœur's circumnavigation of Mauritius began with a serene cruise through the Grand Port Bay, often accompanied by playful dolphins. Their presence added a magical touch to the morning.
Heading a little further north, we anchored at the deserted sandbank of Îlot Flamants, a couple of nautical miles off the coast, where we enjoyed a leisurely picnic amid unparalleled tranquillity. After lunch, the yacht set course back to Trou d'Eau Douce, marking the end of an extraordinary journey around Mauritius. The crew took the much-needed opportunity to restock and refuel Le Mercœur before the next adventure.
Join us in the next edition of Experience magazine as the owners, their family and crew set out to cruise Cargados Carajos Shoal, a spectacular cluster of small low-lying islands and reefs alone on the Indian Ocean about 220 nautical miles north-east of Le Mercœur's home port.