Novara update from Greenland
by Novara 1 Aug 19:40 BST
Novara in Greenland © Novara
Where are we now?
After arriving in Paamiut, Greenland on 12 July we've made our way north past towering glaciers, deep fjords and endless archipelago of islets that dot the west coast. The landscape here is so stunning, it makes your eyes hurt. On 21 July, we crossed the Arctic Circle (66 degrees 33 minutes North) and celebrated with a special meal (and tot) on board. It feels like a real milestone to get this far north.
We're now at 69 degrees north. As I type this, we're making our way through an ice field in one of the many glacial fjords in Disko Bay. There's no need to hurry to anchor because we have 24 hours of daylight now. Our main concern (other than hitting an ice berg) is fog. We're heading out to an anchorage on the northern tip of the Bay. From there we'll cross the Davis Straight to Arctic Canada and in to the Northwest Passage proper.
With 6 on the boat, we're all managing surprisingly well. We have our roster of jobs, active 'clubs' (art, cards, knitting, gardening:-)) and we're eating well (which should not be underestimated).
Novara One Planet project
Our move north is constant. Since leaving Petty Harbour, we've now sailed more than 1400 nautical miles north.
Despite the northward push, we've made some wonderful local friends. In Sisimiut, we met Inaluk and Knud. They were kind enough to welcome us in to their homes and share their experiences of climate changes (and Veronica and Inaluk bonded over knitting!). We've also been reading all we can about Greenland - thoroughly recommend 'The right to be cold' by Shelia Watt Cloutier. And we met adventurers Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau. Lonnie's documentary Amka about his circumnavigation of Greenland by kayak and dog sled is amazing. From all of this it is clear that the Inuit culture is under stress - they are losing the ice that they need for transport and hunting. This is not something theoretical, or modelled in anivory-tower university. This is happening right now.
And there's no doubt that the Greenland landscape is also under pressure. Glaciers are retreating and shrinking and sea life is sparce. The lack of wildlife here is noticeable.
Where next for Novara?
Next stop Baffin Island, Canada. All going well, we should be there by 3 or 4 August. From there we'll continue north to Pond Inlet and then Lancaster Sound, the famed entrance to the Northwest Passage! Stay tuned.
Veronica, Nigel and the Novara team at novara.world