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Re-Decking a Phantom

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hollandsd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote hollandsd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Re-Decking a Phantom
    Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 12:32pm
Does anyone have any useful information on how to re deck a phantom, the starboard gunwhale decking has started to delaminate and the foredeck is shot and i was wondering how difficult it is to do?

Many Thanks

Dan
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Post Options Post Options   Quote winging it Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 12:58pm
Hi Dan, I'm fairly sure someone in the classics forum has done this recently, if not try the class association site.

I am just off to resurrect the Phantom Menace...
the same, but different...

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Merlinboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 1:22pm
It should be fairly easy Dan, Most phantoms of you boats age have flat decks can you get the old deck off whole to use as a template?  I put a hole in the side deck of my pld phantom (921)  and although i had it profesionally replaced i think i could of done it fairly easily myself. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 2:15pm
Redecking is one of the best and most straightforward "first serious" boat jobs... Its easiest if you are going to replace the outer gunwhales at the same time, and although it costs a bit more in timber to do that it also makes for a much more satisfying job because it all looks so bright and new...

The lazy man's alternative is to glue the ply over the gunwhales, which isn't as pretty and leaves the ply edge exposed. Doing that you take the existing gunwhales down flush with the deck beams.

What I don't like to do is to try and preserve the existing gunwhales, because you need to cut the ply precisely to fit, and its hassle hassle hassle.

Basically rip off the old decks, then with a surform and decent chisel get all the old glue and remaining plywood off, finish by sanding smooth for a decent new gluing surface. Cut ply roughly to shape with a few inches all round. Apply thickened epoxy, staple ply down to the deck beams with a staple gun. When cured remove staples, fill staple holes and attach new gunwhales. Now varnish, stand back and admire with joyous feeling of achievement!

Getting a really nice varnish finish might be the most difficult bit - at least for me. Too much carbon dust in my garage!



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hollandsd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote hollandsd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 2:51pm
what wood would be good for the gunwhales and also what is a "surform"?

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Post Options Post Options   Quote timnoyce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 3:46pm
One of these...



Could try your mums cheese grater if you're feeling brave. I assume you do still live at home to have access to the cooking utensils to have such a number of boats!
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hollandsd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote hollandsd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 3:49pm
i have got a few of those. i think i may give it a go, will have to find somewhere dry to do it, will have to wait till the moth is finished though.

any more advice?

Dan
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 09 at 3:55pm
a Surform is a kind of planing tool I guess...

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=surform&meta=&aq=f&oq =

Timber for gunwhales... Umm, it depends I think, I am not your most aesthetic of builders, and tend to pick whatever is both cheap and light. Pine (white), maybe with a mahogany capping (red) I guess... No doubt there are plenty of alternatives, and proper wood boat builders can ship in now!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rupert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 09 at 6:25pm

Jim's right about not leaving the gunwales - once I did, and never again.

The posh boats (Solos, Merlins and the like) often use Sycamore for the gunwales, as it is very pretty. Spruce would be the lightest, and cheaper. Mahogany, or similar, the most durable. The class may have rules on hardwood/softwood in construction. Main thing is to get stuff with straight grain, or it snaps when you bend it. If you have no access to a planer/thicknesser, get it cut to size when you buy it, but it would be cheaper is if know someone who has one, of course.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote tmoore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 09 at 8:13pm

Excuse my hi-jacking Dan. Seemed pointless to start a new thread. We have an enterprise sat at the bottom of the boat park. It has a hole in the floor and a hole in the side (just forewards of the starboard shroud). Other than these the wood looks good (although some water damage). How hard would this be to repair in order to get another boat on the water for the club. Im reasonably competent with tools and woodworking etc but never done anything on wooden boats.

Cheers tom

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