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Laser control line thickness?

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jeffers View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 May 14 at 9:04am
In my opinion (and my 12+ years of racing Lasers). You do not need to mark the control lines, you should be able to do it by feel. 

Kicker is minimum block to block for upwind gradually winding more on until you are still overpwoered then easing back off but still no less than block to block.

Cunningham there is no point in marking the line because your sail stretches, if you use different sails for different purposes (training, club racing, open meeting, etc...) then then calibration will mean nothing. It may be useful to put a calibration strip or some graduated marks on the lower mast so you can see how much you are pulling on for any given day. Use the upper block as your reference point.

Outhaul put calibration strips or graduated marks at the end of your boom then use your clew strap/clew sleeve as your reference point as again the setting will be different depending on the state of your sail.

Personally I have no marks or reference points. I set my cunningham up so I get max travel and go on how the boat feels to work out how much I need. Outhaul I set at max off each time and tweak it in and out as I sail.

Kicker I have a knot at max off so I know that at a windward mark rounding I can just pull it out the cleat and let it go then tweak it back in if required once I am settled on the next leg.

As for the Rooster control lines, I have them for all my control lines. They do not tangle at all and seem to flow through the blocks nicely. When you put them on did you work your hand along the length of each one to make sure the inner core was not twisted?
Paul
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D-Zero GBR 74
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Andymac View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Andymac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 14 at 7:05pm
I pretty much echo the consensus of the other replies.
Just for clarity, in the original post; the primary line is the first part of the control system and is under the greatest strain. The part that you handle and cleat is the secondary line.
I couldn't tell you which brand of secondary line I'm currently using, but they are Dyneema core with Polyester outer. Strength and low stretch in the core and good handling, cleating and lower abrasion with the polyester outer. 4mm cunningham and outhaul, Kicker 5mm with a plastic loop handle over for comfort/handling.
I always tie the cunningham & outhaul loose ends together (grab one, and you've got both). The loose ends tied together help keep tangles at bay.
I would only use naked Dyneema for the primary lines and the traveller which is pretty much a static line anyway.
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jeffers View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jeffers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 14 at 9:50am
Originally posted by Andymac

I pretty much echo the consensus of the other replies.
Just for clarity, in the original post; the primary line is the first part of the control system and is under the greatest strain. The part that you handle and cleat is the secondary line.
I couldn't tell you which brand of secondary line I'm currently using, but they are Dyneema core with Polyester outer. Strength and low stretch in the core and good handling, cleating and lower abrasion with the polyester outer. 4mm cunningham and outhaul, Kicker 5mm with a plastic loop handle over for comfort/handling.
I always tie the cunningham & outhaul loose ends together (grab one, and you've got both). The loose ends tied together help keep tangles at bay.
I would only use naked Dyneema for the primary lines and the traveller which is pretty much a static line anyway.

Agreed except I don't use naked dyneema for my traveller as it is an unnecessary expense for the level I sail at. Having a decent low tiller make more difference than the tiny bit you will gain by the traveller not moving up as the rope stretches a little.
Paul
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