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Laser control line thickness?

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    Posted: 12 May 14 at 9:50am
Originally posted by Andymac

I pretty much echo the consensus of the other replies.
Just for clarity, in the original post; the primary line is the first part of the control system and is under the greatest strain. The part that you handle and cleat is the secondary line.
I couldn't tell you which brand of secondary line I'm currently using, but they are Dyneema core with Polyester outer. Strength and low stretch in the core and good handling, cleating and lower abrasion with the polyester outer. 4mm cunningham and outhaul, Kicker 5mm with a plastic loop handle over for comfort/handling.
I always tie the cunningham & outhaul loose ends together (grab one, and you've got both). The loose ends tied together help keep tangles at bay.
I would only use naked Dyneema for the primary lines and the traveller which is pretty much a static line anyway.

Agreed except I don't use naked dyneema for my traveller as it is an unnecessary expense for the level I sail at. Having a decent low tiller make more difference than the tiny bit you will gain by the traveller not moving up as the rope stretches a little.
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Andymac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 14 at 7:05pm
I pretty much echo the consensus of the other replies.
Just for clarity, in the original post; the primary line is the first part of the control system and is under the greatest strain. The part that you handle and cleat is the secondary line.
I couldn't tell you which brand of secondary line I'm currently using, but they are Dyneema core with Polyester outer. Strength and low stretch in the core and good handling, cleating and lower abrasion with the polyester outer. 4mm cunningham and outhaul, Kicker 5mm with a plastic loop handle over for comfort/handling.
I always tie the cunningham & outhaul loose ends together (grab one, and you've got both). The loose ends tied together help keep tangles at bay.
I would only use naked Dyneema for the primary lines and the traveller which is pretty much a static line anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jeffers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 14 at 9:04am
In my opinion (and my 12+ years of racing Lasers). You do not need to mark the control lines, you should be able to do it by feel. 

Kicker is minimum block to block for upwind gradually winding more on until you are still overpwoered then easing back off but still no less than block to block.

Cunningham there is no point in marking the line because your sail stretches, if you use different sails for different purposes (training, club racing, open meeting, etc...) then then calibration will mean nothing. It may be useful to put a calibration strip or some graduated marks on the lower mast so you can see how much you are pulling on for any given day. Use the upper block as your reference point.

Outhaul put calibration strips or graduated marks at the end of your boom then use your clew strap/clew sleeve as your reference point as again the setting will be different depending on the state of your sail.

Personally I have no marks or reference points. I set my cunningham up so I get max travel and go on how the boat feels to work out how much I need. Outhaul I set at max off each time and tweak it in and out as I sail.

Kicker I have a knot at max off so I know that at a windward mark rounding I can just pull it out the cleat and let it go then tweak it back in if required once I am settled on the next leg.

As for the Rooster control lines, I have them for all my control lines. They do not tangle at all and seem to flow through the blocks nicely. When you put them on did you work your hand along the length of each one to make sure the inner core was not twisted?
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Quote NHRC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 14 at 7:32am
I can make a better quality race pack cheaper than laser, rooster or any other decent competitor sell.

You can make bigger performance gains with altering foils and working on the hull of a laser, still class legal, than you will by changing rope.

Good rope means less expense replacing, more effective control and that you can trust your gear not to fail.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rupert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 14 at 7:28am
Nice simple, cheap one design, the Laser...
Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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Post Options Post Options   Quote NHRC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 14 at 10:58pm
I also have an excellent traveller. My first part control lines are far superior too. Now using sk99 high modulus dynes a on the vang.

Testing showed that of three first parts on the vang, d12 stretched 70mm, sk90 20mm and sk 99 only 2.5mm... That was after a 20 minute sail in a force 4 breeze at Weymouth.

We've done the research and proven what works best.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Do Different Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 14 at 10:53pm
Wow you are using the good stuff; I'm learning something here. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote NHRC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 14 at 10:48pm
Over the last four years I have spent hours with Jon Emmett perfecting the Laser race kit ropes. We decided that 4mm sk 78 control lines work best. The best manufacturer by far is Maffioli.

If anyone would like one of my race kits email me.

Gareth@thenottinghillriggingco.com


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Do Different Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 14 at 10:18pm
All getting a bit crossed up here.
If you want spliceable lines without the overkill of D12 perhaps this could work in some areas.
polyester 4mm 12 strand.

http://www.pinbax.com/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid=37250&cg=10&mc=112&cct=6&sc=1002 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Ruscoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 14 at 9:56pm
I don't understand what you mean by cover mate, the standard control lines I mentioned earlier have dynemma cores.  If you buy d12 there is no coating so to speak,  if you watch the Marlow or rooster splicing videos you will understand how it works a bit more I would suggest.

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