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Fixing dagger board chunk
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zailor View Drop Down
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Posts: 249 		Post Options Post Options   Quote zailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fixing dagger board chunk
    Posted: 06 Mar 10 at 8:43am

I just want the hole gone, the boats a tad old to worry too much about cosmetics

 

Many thanks

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Rupert View Drop Down
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Posts: 8956 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Rupert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 10 at 3:12pm
Or, if you really don't care about colour, car body filler will do the job and keep the water out.
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dave.blakesley View Drop Down
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Posts: 314 		Post Options Post Options   Quote dave.blakesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 10 at 12:51pm
Normally if you quote the hull number to whoever made the boat they will be able to tell you exactly the colour of gelcoat used, and they will be able to either sell you the pigment for white gelcoat or some pre-mixed filler.
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womble12345 View Drop Down
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Posts: 99 		Post Options Post Options   Quote womble12345 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 10 at 12:10pm

Originally posted by zailor

so for the europe hull would that gelcoat filler thing I put in a link further up be the right thing to fix it?

I think its the right stuff but the wrong colour, try ringing whoever originally made it and get the right colour.
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zailor View Drop Down
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Posts: 249 		Post Options Post Options   Quote zailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 10 at 6:50pm
so for the europe hull would that gelcoat filler thing I put in a link further up be the right thing to fix it?
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dave.blakesley View Drop Down
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Posts: 314 		Post Options Post Options   Quote dave.blakesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 10 at 9:47am
It will take a lot longer for the reaction to happen, and any moisture will ruin the repair. The reason for heating it up is to enable it to reach the activation energy faster. Better to leave it in a warm room.
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zailor View Drop Down
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Posts: 249 		Post Options Post Options   Quote zailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 10 at 5:48pm

Will it dry out in the cold?
I wont use it for a while yet so it has time, but if it wont set in the first place....

Thanks for the input By the way.

P.S
Just for the record I am not responcible for any of the damaged caused.
Moral of the story.

NEVER EVER TRUST LITTLE BROTHERS

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dave.blakesley View Drop Down
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Posts: 314 		Post Options Post Options   Quote dave.blakesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 10 at 11:30am

Um, not necessarilly. All these materials have an optimum range of temperature to cure properly. If it takes a fan heater and a "tent" to keep it at the right temperature than that's what you need to do. You shouldn't blast a heat source straight at the curing material so its way over temperature instead of under, but you do need to keep the air temperature in range.


Thats pretty much what i meant, dont just blast it with a heat gun or fan heater straight away, use a tent or well heated room!
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I luv Wight View Drop Down
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Posts: 628 		Post Options Post Options   Quote I luv Wight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 10 at 11:03am
Epoxys work best with a room temperature cure ( at least overnight or a day or so  ) and then a high temperature post-cure. Normal boatbuilding resins (SP sicomin west etc) cooked at 60°C for a few hours is so much better.
Masts ( and boats if you have the cash ) made with prepregs are cooked at 120°C ish - that's why they don't go soft in the sunshine.

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JimC View Drop Down
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Posts: 6660 		Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 10 at 10:27am
Originally posted by dave.blakesley

Dont use a heat gun or fan heater to cure gelcoat/epoxy/resin/anything, will mean more work in the long run and a weaker repair.


Um, not necessarilly. All these materials have an optimum range of temperature to cure properly. If it takes a fan heater and a "tent" to keep it at the right temperature than that's what you need to do. You shouldn't blast a heat source straight at the curing material so its way over temperature instead of under, but you do need to keep the air temperature in range.
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