Sailing photography advice (DSLR) |
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phillip.padd
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Joined: 17 Jul 08 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 7 |
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Topic: Sailing photography advice (DSLR)Posted: 29 Aug 08 at 11:11am |
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reguarding shooting Raw files. I am a professional photographer and would only ever shoot Raw files. In post production it gives you 2 f stops either way to play with without losing quality ie if the shot is overexposed you can still retain the highlight without it burning out and the same with the shadow detail being too solid but it does mean big file sizes so you need a large memory card.If you must shot in j-peg format once you have manipulated your image save as a tiff file not a j-peg as if you do you compress the image again losing even more quality.
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tgruitt
Really should get out more
Joined: 02 Dec 04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2479 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 3:23pm |
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Well I made a Gore-Tex rain coat for it, just like the ones you can buy in the shops. If I don't use that then plenty of insulating tape over all the cracks and joins, and if you have the pro lenses they are pretty waterproof anyway, so are the pro bodies, but I don't have 5k to spare for one of those! A towel also comes in useful, for me and the camera
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Needs to sail more...
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laser4000
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Joined: 02 Aug 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 589 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 2:45pm |
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ok so now you've sorted out depth of field.
How do you keep your kit dry?? I was shooting some shots with a compact a few weeks ago (not ideal but all I had), and it got a bit drenched) and hey presto it's cream crackered...not so much of an issue for a 150 snapper, but I'd be gutted if I'd spend 500 on an slr and got that soaked too... |
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dics
Far too distracted from work
Joined: 05 Oct 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 317 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 12:52pm |
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Thanks for the tip. I don't shoot this kind of stuff usually but well worth knowing when I do. Amazing how my interest in sailing has made me a better photgrapher. |
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m_liddell
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Joined: 27 May 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 583 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 12:22pm |
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You don't always have to get as close to your subject as possible, it depends on the perspective that you want. For a given compostion, a telephoto lens shot from futher away flattens perspective (makes near/far objects look closer together) while a wide lens shot much closer will accentuate the distance between them. This is why the favourite pictures thread often has "omg that is close!" comments on yacht racing photographs because the long lens has made the boats appear closer together (flattened perspective) than they really were. This argument was used in an Americas Cup protest hearing in the 80s over a photograph used as evidence. Edited by m_liddell |
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dics
Far too distracted from work
Joined: 05 Oct 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 317 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 9:36am |
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Yep agreed. |
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tgruitt
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Joined: 02 Dec 04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2479 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 9:34am |
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Well I'm glad it has provoked some thought. I only use Canon L Series Professional lenses, soon to be adding a 300mm f2.8 IS L to the collection soon I hope.... |
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Needs to sail more...
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dics
Far too distracted from work
Joined: 05 Oct 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 317 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 9:30am |
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I have never thought like that. Simply beacuse you must always get a close to your subject as possible. So I would not use a 400mm lens when I can get away with a 50mm. This is becuase there are more opics in a 400mm lens with means more light refraction which means poorer picture quality. Sorry but this is what your telephoto lens does. It you want a really narrow depth of field, set the aperture to 3.5, zoom right in with a 400mm lens and that will give you a much norrower depth of field than 3.5 close up at 28mm. Your telephoto lens will automatcially change the aperture as you zomm in and out. So you set it at f3.5 and as you zoom in the f number will automatcally incrrease. If you bought a good lens at around £5k like a fixed 400mm focal length lens then you would have the option to shoot at f4 and f4 is what it would be. Why do you think there is a difference in the price between amature lenses and top quality professional? It is because the opics are better and the lenses can be calibrated to give you this type of range. Also you would need to be blooming good to use it. That is my understanding of it, but I like your point on the distance to the subject. I will look into this as it has never really occurred to me. This is what I really like about photography, you can get so set in your ways about it when someone mentions something so elementary it is like a big revelation!
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tgruitt
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Joined: 02 Dec 04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2479 |
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Posted: 28 Aug 08 at 9:18am |
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Ok, let me make this simple. If the subject is ALWAYS 5m away from the camera, regardless of what it looks like in the viewfinder, the depth of field will vary depending on focal length used. This is the point I'm trying to make. Simple. |
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Needs to sail more...
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m_liddell
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Joined: 27 May 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 583 |
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Posted: 27 Aug 08 at 11:03pm |
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For the object to be the same size in the picture, the shot with the 400mm would need to be shot from approx 40m away not 5m. The depth of field would then be exactly the same. You cannot think "oh no I don't have enough depth of field with my 400mm 40m away, I'll use my 50mm for this shot because that much more" because as soon as you move to frame the same composition (5m away) you will find you have exactly the same amount, as shown by the above example. Edited by m_liddell |
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