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Continuous control lines

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Charlie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Charlie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Continuous control lines
    Posted: 10 Jan 07 at 10:39pm
I'm currently putting in new cleats to my boat, and want to upgrade to continuous control lines, and was hoping somebody would be able to give me some advice about what's the best rope to use for that purpose, and how to splice it together.

Thanks in advance


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jeffers View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jeffers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 8:23am
Hi Charlie,

Not sure what rope I have on the Blaze but it is made continuous by the ends being sewn together then whipped. not sure how strong this is likely to be so I try to keep the join in the non load bearing part of the line.

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Chris Noble View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Chris Noble Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:25am
search the RS class websites there is an excellent step by step guide to doing it on there, if i get time later ill have a look to try and find it for you
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Post Options Post Options   Quote tornado435 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:26am

On the tornado I use excel pro or racing, always get it mixed up. The one where the inner is weaved together rather than twisted.

just cut away a length of the outer and splice together like you would D12 or Vectran, using a fid. easier to see than explain.

no knots no twine, it grips together by itself but can be easily undone. I have a continuous downhaul and jib sheets that need to be taken apart every time I trail the boat.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Adam@LDC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Adam@LDC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:42am
We normally use 4mm Excel Racing, however any plaited cored dynemma should work. We have used 3/3.5mm D12, however it doesn't work in the cleats as well when under high load.  Also it is harder to pull on.

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English Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote English Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:50am

Charlie, I do the same as jeffers.

I strip back the inner core by a couple of inches so that there is less bulk to the ends and then sew them to gether before whiping to make them roundish.

As long as you are thorough in your sewing and whipping it should be more than strong enough. It's also easier that splicing and you dont have to have braided core rope to do it.

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Charlie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Charlie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 11:17am
Thanks for the replies, i think i'm gonna go with the braided core approach with 5mm rope as it looks the strongest join, and with the Finn once you've joined the lines you almost never need to undo them.
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