Continuous control lines
Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Dinghy development
Forum Discription: The latest moves in the dinghy market
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2585
Printed Date: 18 Aug 25 at 9:32am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Continuous control lines
Posted By: Charlie
Subject: Continuous control lines
Date Posted: 10 Jan 07 at 10:39pm
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I'm currently putting in new cleats to my boat, and want to upgrade to
continuous control lines, and was hoping somebody would be able to give
me some advice about what's the best rope to use for that purpose, and
how to splice it together. Thanks in advance ------------- Finn GBR 657 - Blown It Laser 164635 Planet Earth: 30% Land, 70% race course! |
Replies:
Posted By: jeffers
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 8:23am
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Hi Charlie, Not sure what rope I have on the Blaze but it is made continuous by the ends being sewn together then whipped. not sure how strong this is likely to be so I try to keep the join in the non load bearing part of the line. Paul ------------- Paul ---------------------- D-Zero GBR 74 |
Posted By: Chris Noble
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:25am
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search the RS class websites there is an excellent step by step guide to doing it on there, if i get time later ill have a look to try and find it for you ------------- http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=561 - Competitive Boat Insurance From Noble Marine FOR SALE: I14 2 Masts 2 poles 3 Booms, Foils Kites/Mains/Jibs too many to list. |
Posted By: tornado435
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:26am
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On the tornado I use excel pro or racing, always get it mixed up. The one where the inner is weaved together rather than twisted. just cut away a length of the outer and splice together like you would D12 or Vectran, using a fid. easier to see than explain. no knots no twine, it grips together by itself but can be easily undone. I have a continuous downhaul and jib sheets that need to be taken apart every time I trail the boat. |
Posted By: Adam@LDC
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:40am
 ------------- Retail Manager, LDC Racing Sailboats |
Posted By: Adam@LDC
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:42am
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We normally use 4mm Excel Racing, however any plaited cored dynemma should work. We have used 3/3.5mm D12, however it doesn't work in the cleats as well when under high load. Also it is harder to pull on. ------------- Retail Manager, LDC Racing Sailboats |
Posted By: English Dave
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 9:50am
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Charlie, I do the same as jeffers. I strip back the inner core by a couple of inches so that there is less bulk to the ends and then sew them to gether before whiping to make them roundish. As long as you are thorough in your sewing and whipping it should be more than strong enough. It's also easier that splicing and you dont have to have braided core rope to do it. ------------- English Dave http://www.ballyholme.com - Ballyholme Yacht Club (You'd think I'd be better at it by now) Hurricane 5.9 SX RS700 |
Posted By: Charlie
Date Posted: 11 Jan 07 at 11:17am
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Thanks for the replies, i think i'm gonna go with the braided core approach with 5mm rope as it looks the strongest join, and with the Finn once you've joined the lines you almost never need to undo them. ------------- Finn GBR 657 - Blown It Laser 164635 Planet Earth: 30% Land, 70% race course! |