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owain View Drop Down
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Posts: 142 		Post Options Post Options   Quote owain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Main halyard
    Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 3:56pm
On our boat, weve always used a length of kevlar or dyneema as a halyard with a cleat at the bottom where thr halyard exits the mast. When we got our new fully rigged mast, it had the system with a wire strop and fitting which has about 10 teeth on it, and the strop fits over it. as far as i can tell, the only advantage of this system is that it dusent stretch, but weve never had a problem with the dyneema anyway? also weve used the new mast about 6 times, and the rope tail needs replaciing already, and we still havent managed to get as much tension as we did with the old system. The problem we find is that, to hook the strop on, the tail needs to be out of the way, but when we romove it, we always loos some tension. Why is this system fitted as standard?  What system do other people use? After 2 years of using the old mast every weekend, we never had to replace the halyard.
Owain H
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Plymouth Uni Sailing Club & Chelmarsh Sailing Club
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Isis View Drop Down
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Posts: 2753 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Isis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:11pm
Halyards are for girls.

 
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Iain C View Drop Down
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Posts: 1113 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Iain C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:16pm

I assume you mean the Fireball...(and I've got one too)

Wire will stretch less than kevlar.  Ideally you need a block under the halyard rack, so you do actually pull the tension on with the tail and hook the whole lot on the rack, before moving the tail out of the way.  Make sure the cunno is right off, and someone is holding the boom up in such a way that the gooeneck fitting is above the gooseneck, and there is no leech tension.  Put the gooseneck on after you have got the halyard sorted.

Technically speaking your miansail head should not be above the black band anyway, so the tension is not vital.  No-one really uses kevlar any more, we all use wire, halyard locks, or a 2:1 external hertzog setup.

 
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Guest View Drop Down
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Posts: 0 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Guest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:17pm

Originally posted by Isis

Halyards are for girls.

 

How do you keep the main up on your 600 then?
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Isis View Drop Down
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Posts: 2753 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Isis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by Guest#260

Originally posted by Isis

Halyards are for girls.

 

How do you keep the main up on your 600 then?



Shhh!
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Black no sugar View Drop Down
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Posts: 3941 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Black no sugar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:28pm
Originally posted by Isis

Originally posted by Guest#260

Originally posted by Isis

Halyards are for girls.

 

How do you keep the main up on your 600 then?



Shhh!

He uses a Topper mast...

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combat wombat View Drop Down
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Posts: 345 		Post Options Post Options   Quote combat wombat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:36pm
Racks are better because they do not slip like cleats can - this is less of a problem on Fireballs as you don't use downhaul like skiffs do (ie huge purchase to depower).

On my B14, the old ali rig has a cleat, but the new carbon stick has a rack.  We use a 2:1 dyneema set up which has a loop spliced in the end to go over the rack.  There is a block below the rack so you can hold tension on and hook it over.  Come to think of it, my Contender is the same.

The system is a complete pain if rigged the other way (a la Laser 2) where the halyard exits at the bottom of the mast in a sheave, you then pull the wire over the rack (hooks face upwards).  Very difficult to get tension. 
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owain View Drop Down
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Posts: 142 		Post Options Post Options   Quote owain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 4:55pm
ye, we have a block underneath, (without mentioning the compnay involved) the cowboys put the block slightly out of line, so the tail rubs on the the teeth as the main is pulled up. What we usually do, is my crew pulls it up as much as he can. then i put my thumb over the strop as it exits the mast, then remove the tail, so it dosent the in the way of the teeth, and then i hook the strop over the teeth, but it almost always slips. Ah well, the 49er comes soon, so wont be a problem for a while
Owain H
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Isis View Drop Down
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Posts: 2753 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Isis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 5:19pm
Ive yet to try the diddy rig actually TT, whats it like?
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Paramedic View Drop Down
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Posts: 929 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Paramedic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 06 at 7:18pm

I still use kevlar.

With Dyneema/Spectra we used to find that the inner would creep (permanantly stretch) under tension, while the outer wouldn't leaving it shredded. Life expectancy of halyard 6 months, but at least you get a warning!

Wire will always break on the upper splice due to the work hardening of the wire. stainless steel does not like to be flexed. Life expectancy of halyard 6 to 12 months, you get a warning if you're lucky!! If you can find a supplier of galvanised wire it would be better as it will not work harden, but will rust. Rust is however easily visible.

I briefly tried a D12 halyard with an external 2:1. It twisted up dreadfully inside the mast, causing the splice to not emerge from the mast. makes a great kicker though!

The kevlar one is now about a year old, looks good as new and doesn't slip.

When it eventually breaks i might try a vectran one. kevlar is cheaper though



Edited by Paramedic
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