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The big bear away....

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JimC View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 May 08 at 11:58am
Should we mention looking upwind so that you don't get caught by the killer gust halfway though?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Splosh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 08 at 4:48pm

Originally posted by Merlinboy

you dont dump the kicker??? in big winds mike i think the 600 would just huck you in unless you control the sail through things like kicker

When we had a 600 coach come and help us out, he (james sainsbury) said that he can regurally sail the whole course with full kicker on and its it isn't that bad bearing away and jybing etc with it on?!

Also commitment is a huge part, just like in windsurfing aswell. If your thinking i must not capsize, 8/10 times you will because your to concentrated on that rather than sailing the boat. Never worry/think about it and take it as it comes !



Edited by Splosh
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iwsmithuk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 08 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by Iain C

541 should'nt that be pull the tiller?

I sometimes find doing the bearaway in little steps can help if it's really gnarly...you kind of feel how the boat is loading up through the tiller and sheet loads and sail it accordingly.  Bear away onto a close reach (having done all those other things mentioned above)...if the nose starts to go down, the speed coming on, the hull really starting to plane and the apparent going forward might mean that she pops up and gets settled before you finish the bearaway.  We're only talking fractions of a second here, a bit like centralising the tiller mid gybe really, but it might just be easier than expecting to bear away from upwind in a F5 to a dead run in one swift manoevre.

Not sure how heavy you are but the Contender board is massive, you can probably get away with having it really quite a long way up.  And don't steer too much, get the trim right and the windward heel right and it will more or less bear away by itself.  Yank on a load of rudder  (especially if heeled) and it kinda makes the stern come up and the bow go down.  Release the "pressure" out of the sail with the kicker and mainsheet, steer the boat into the bearaway by heeling it on top of you, and the rudder just follows along behind as more of a "trim tab" than a proper steering device.  If you get it wrong and end up in the drink a quick stab with the tiller will usually pick you up again...

I agree, little steps. Try and arrive at the windward mark a bit high, ease off gradually to a reach across the top of the mark and ease off slowly from there, all the time moving back and letting off little bits of main (having let off some kicker before arriving at the mark).

Think of sailing a nice round arc around the mark rather than trying to make it a sharp corner. You'll sail further which isn't fast but you'll fall in less and falling in is NEVER fast!

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Kiwi Spy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 08 at 2:07am

This is best performed at pace and with a moderately slow turn initially.

1. before the top mark drop your vang about an inch - this will keep some control on your leech but will allow twist, and will take the pressure offthe gooseneck (you should be sailing upwind with a lot of vantension, but not vang sheeting). If yiou are vang sheeting let off a couple of inches (thiough the side cleat not on the vang itself) ease the luff a little too, if you can

2. spring the mainsheet so you are holding it in your hand and you are in control as you approach the mark.

3. move aft a foot or so, ease the mai about 12-18inches and start the turn down.

4. keep the boat sailing fast and under control as you turn your boat slowly.

5. get the back foot off the gunnel and into the boat if you are unable to keep trapezing (remeber the boat at all times should be heeled slightly to leeward. If you are not heeled to leeward you have eased the main too much, and if yiour rudder has started aerating and you are very heeld ease the main some more (6 inches)

Control and pace are the two things to remember

RG

 



Edited by Kiwi Spy
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Chris Bridges Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 08 at 7:51am
Originally posted by Kiwi Spy

This is best performed at pace and with a moderately slow turn initially.

1. before the top mark drop your vang about an inch - this will keep some control on your leech but will allow twist, and will take the pressure offthe gooseneck (you should be sailing upwind with a lot of vantension, but not vang sheeting). If yiou are vang sheeting let off a couple of inches (thiough the side cleat not on the vang itself) ease the luff a little too, if you can

2. spring the mainsheet so you are holding it in your hand and you are in control as you approach the mark.

3. move aft a foot or so, ease the mai about 12-18inches and start the turn down.

4. keep the boat sailing fast and under control as you turn your boat slowly.

5. get the back foot off the gunnel and into the boat if you are unable to keep trapezing (remeber the boat at all times should be heeled slightly to leeward. If you are not heeled to leeward you have eased the main too much, and if yiour rudder has started aerating and you are very heeld ease the main some more (6 inches)

Control and pace are the two things to remember

RG

 

It should be heeled to windward no leeward? Leeward heel will not aid the turn at all but make it slower?

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Iain C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 08 at 9:11am

We had the 18 out yesterday in quite simply the most amazing conditions we've sailed it in yet...and we were really getting to grips with triple wire bearaways.  The power and and acceleration of the 18 was just awesome (and that was only in a F3 ish).

We did stay dry which was a bonus, but there were a couple of times that we did not get it quite right and come out with too much leeward heel on...giving you a good case of vertigo as you suddenly seem to be trapezing about 10 foot above water!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Quote getafix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 08 at 12:46pm
pulling the tiller towards you will push to bow down, likewise pushing it away from you will do the opposite, in a boat with as much rag as the contender, the tips you've already got about dumping the sheet prior to the bear-away are also critical, but don't let too much kicker off as you don't want the apparent going too far forward, this will simply mean you bear-away too much, and in high enough winds, straight into a nice big chinese gybe! a little bit of windward heel is good because it will help reduce the amount of rudder you need to use, but not too much as from memory this is a good method of wiping yourself off the side of your contender...the one I raced many moons ago also had twinned centreboard uphaul lines which was a great way of being able to quickly lean in and pull up some board prior to the top mark, it's a very deep foil on the Contender and can make life difficult when trying to bear away steeply without it up a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Kiwi Spy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 08 at 11:33pm

You need a little leeward heel to ensure that you have gravity working to help get you body back inboard, rather than working to get it out of the boat, if you are heeled to windward.

If you do a quick release of the mainsheet, and ease a small chunk (6-8") quickly as you turn that will take the pressure of the rudder. The degree of heel is slight coming into an upright position as the boat turns.

If you start with windward heel the boat will come event further back on you as you turn - which can get very messy. Also it is not a good idea to be relying on footloop pressure to pull you back into the boat in the first instance. OK as a Plan B - but not Plan A.

RG

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Post Options Post Options   Quote winging it Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 11:24am
I don't care if I look daft - I need to know:

What is the difference between vang sheeting and vang tension ?
the same, but different...

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mike ellis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote mike ellis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 1:46pm

im geussing vang sheeting is when if the kicker does not go exactly to the mast base (like the 600), then if you pull lots and lots of kicker on the boom wont go out as the kicker is acting as a mainsheet, this does happen very slightly on the 600 in light winds.

vang tension is just how much grunt you use to get the kicker on.

thats just a geuss but it would seem the logical thing.

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