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Cee-Vee stock...I give up!

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craiggo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote craiggo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Cee-Vee stock...I give up!
    Posted: 24 Aug 09 at 11:13am
Having recently gone through similar problems with my RS700 stock ( although I didnt need to switch the gudgeon with a pintle), I eventually hacksawed the nuts off the countersunk bolts, and then tapped the remains back through the hole.

I then drilled out all the holes oversize, filled the countersink in the inside of the stock with some little tapered packers and bolted it all back together with the nuts on the inside!

The other problems I have come across before are that the sea-sure gudgeons and pintles dont seem to maintain the same hole pattern very long, the last one I bought was 1/2 a hole out on all holes and needed significant work to fit.

I was even tempted to try and weld it all together!
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tack'ho View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote tack'ho Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 09 at 7:22am

You've got a measurement certificate with the new stock I assume?!? Non? Who ever sold you that stock as a Europe stock has seen you off!

I might be sailing it, but it's still sh**e!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Granite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 09 at 11:24am

I think Ian's rant here is quite justified as the Europe class rules
state that the rudder fittings should allow rudders to be
interchangeable between boats. So selling a stock as a Europe
stock when the bottom fitting is incorrect is a bit rubbish.

I find those right angled screw drivers to be a pain, I would use
a screwdriver bit held in a 1/4 inch spanner and pack under the
bit with some wood against the other side of the stock, a clamp
could be used to hold the whole thing tight if required. The nuts
could then be removed with a spanner.

The thing with cross head screws is that there a re a lot of
different styles and the wrong type of screwdriver will just not
bite, need to try several sizes and styles to get the best fit
before starting.
If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
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Post Options Post Options   Quote winging it Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 09 at 8:27am
Originally posted by AlexM

Draper 2 Piece Plain Slot/PZ Type Angle Screwdriver Set

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-69-4745-25989-draper-2 -piece-plain-slot-pz-type-angle-screwdriver-set.asp



Ian, I had exactly this problem a few weeks back because the pin bit in the thing had gone wobbly (sorry for the overuse of technical jargon).  I struggled for ages then got the above from a local olde worlde hardware shoppe and they did the job along with a lot of sweat and cursing and a box spanner thing sold by Halfords for bikes.  This did the trick, but putting the thing back together again has been just as much fun...
the same, but different...

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jon711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 09 at 11:24pm

 "Jeez, you can even get a keel off a yacht by undoing the keelbolts...no grinder required! "

 

have you ever tried removing a keel from a yacht - I've done loads, it takes a lot more than just undoing the bolts..  Trying to remove the keel bolts on a Dragon I did once - I actually was jacking the boat in the air to try to move the bloody things...

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Iain C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Iain C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 09 at 10:41pm
...because according to the well known chandlers where I bought it, that is the Europe stock, and that's how it comes, assembled in that way, and that way only.  But Europes were made by many different builders...and as that "Europe" stock is also listed for other classes, it's a fair assumption that not every boat that the stock is destined for is configured in the same way. The mould that our Europe popped out of is clearly set up for two small right angle s/s gudgeons on the hull.  Trust me, if I could have just changed the hull fittings easily, I would.

And no, I would'nt be "crying like a baby", what a daft thing to say. I can remove almost every other part on any boat I sail including the rig, racks, foils, and remove any "wear parts" without resorting to an angle grinder as it's designed to come apart should you need to dismantle it.  Jeez, you can even get a keel off a yacht by undoing the keelbolts...no grinder required!

And from above, I'm not the first person to experience this!

(And finally, 20kts in a Europe, now that really would be a code brown!)
RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs"
Enterprise GBR21970
Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra"
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Villan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 09 at 10:16pm
Originally posted by Iain C

GRRRRRR goddamit CeeVee!  Crap design!!!!
[snip]
so why not either supply the thing without a bottom fitting, so we can choose what we want, or just supply it loose. Or, ask SeaSure to supply the fittings undrilled, and then attach it with staggered bolts, so if you remove the rudder blade you have a hole on one side of the stock allowing you to get a screwdriver or even better an allen key onto the bolt head.


They expect you, yes Iain, *YOU* to buy the right rudder and stock to fit your boat. They build the stock so it won't come apart easily so that it doesn't fall apart downwind at 20knts .. I'm sure you'd be on here crying like a baby if that happened, wouldn't you? "Oh, its crap, they didnt build it right .. etc."

I just bought a new block to go on my kicker, but its too big .. why can't I pull it apart to put a bigger wheel in? Why can't they supply the blocks unbuilt, so I can put the number of ball bearing I want into it ...
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Iain C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Iain C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 09 at 9:59pm
GRRRRRR goddamit CeeVee!  Crap design!!!!

Basically, they confirmed it was an angle grinder job, so off came £20 of brand new gudgeon and in the bin it went.  I then managed to source some short countersunk s/s M5 bolts, but putting them in from the inside (as before) meant that the countersinks in the thin ally folded body of the stock were not deep enough to contain all of the countersunk part of the screw head, and it would have fouled the top of the rudder when raising/lowering it.

So I had to clamp a belt sander upside down in my workmate, hold the bolts in pliers and grind the heads down a bit, then fit them from the inside, and loctite the nuts on.

I have to say, this kind of thing bloody annoys me, at the end of the day a gudgeon is a wear part (no it was not the type with the replaceable bush), so why not either supply the thing without a bottom fitting, so we can choose what we want, or just supply it loose.  Or, ask SeaSure to supply the fittings undrilled, and then attach it with staggered bolts, so if you remove the rudder blade you have a hole on one side of the stock allowing you to get a screwdriver or even better an allen key onto the bolt head.  Getting it off with a grinder is a nightmare.

Rant over!!!
RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs"
Enterprise GBR21970
Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra"
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PeterG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote PeterG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 09 at 5:33pm
Faced with this problem last year I changed the gudgeon on
the hull to a pintle and left the stock alone. I never did
work out how they managed to put it together!
Peter
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ColPrice2002 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ColPrice2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 09 at 4:51pm

Try drilling down the centre of the bolt, then use a stud extractor

 

They're left handed tapered threads in hardened steel - if you can hold the nut, then it's quite likely that the screw will wind out.

Sometimes the heat of drilling the screw will free the thread as well!


Colin

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