Laser 28 - Excellent example of this great design Hamble le rice |
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Rossiter Pintail Mortagne sur Gironde, near Bordeaux |
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Laser 140101 Tynemouth |
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List classes of boat for sale |
600, inside the hull, lots of rotten wood |
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craiggo ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Apr 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1810 |
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I think I'd rather keep trying with the wood rather than sticking metal in there. Even if you go for 316 stainless it will still corrode and you'll probably end up with leaching rust stains all over your boat. Ali will probably fur up and then dissolve. Id be more tempted to stick a piece of peel ply in there with some release wax and then with a few layers of glass make up a plug. Take the plug out and then take a splash off the plug and shape the wood to fit.
Any boat builders got any other advice ? |
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mike ellis ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Dec 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 2339 |
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Hmmm the plan has changed again now anyway. Due to the shape of the inside of the hull where im trying to fix the wood, it is really hard to cut it to the right shape. So i have decided to go for either a piece of sheet metal (probably stainless steel but aluminium if I can get it) glued on the back and then bolt through it. Failing this I will make up some thick glass laminate, with lots of bog between it and the hull, and try to screw through this. I am already going for the sheet steel or aluminium approach to back the kicker bolt with once I've got the old wood off that so this is probably what I'll do here as well. I'll just have to be careful about disimilar metal corrosion i suppose. Edited by mike ellis |
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600 732, will call it Sticks and Stones when i get round to it.
Also International 14, 1318 |
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Fin. ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 12 Feb 07 Location: Ireland Online Status: Offline Posts: 128 |
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do a little research.... some hardwoods are oily, so I've a feeling epoxy may not stick so well to it.... .. worth looking up "west" or '"SP" epoxy websites. one of them's got a load of info.
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mike ellis ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Dec 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 2339 |
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Thanks, I have some old window frame which I am going to use, I haven't got a clue what tree it came from but I'm sure it will be fine once it's properly coated in epoxy. (I sail on the sea anyway and don't intend to spend long periods of time puddle sailing in the near future anyway) |
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600 732, will call it Sticks and Stones when i get round to it.
Also International 14, 1318 |
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ColPrice2002 ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 25 Nov 08 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 222 |
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Mike,
Just a thought, from experience I would suggest that your hardwood should be well epoxied (first) and I wouldn't suggest mahogony (apparently it doesn't like fresh water...)
Colin |
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mike ellis ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Dec 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 2339 |
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Just an update, I've been held up by having to do revision for exams but I've finally got most of the old manky ply wood out the inside of the hull (no big hole in the foredeck yet). And it was very old manky plywood, I put a great big lump of wood just inside the hole i made and hit it with a lump hammer and it went straight through the ply. Now I'm trying to get the last little bits of wood unstuck so I can fit the new lumps of hardwood and put the glass fibre back on. |
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600 732, will call it Sticks and Stones when i get round to it.
Also International 14, 1318 |
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Jamie600 ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 14 Jun 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 718 |
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You could cut the hole and do the repair yourself to keep the cost down but then get LDC to do an invisible repair |
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RS600 1001
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mike ellis ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Dec 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 2339 |
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Ok, I think I could probably manage the big-hole-in-the-foredeck method but I don't trust myself to put it back together neatly enough so I'm going to try doing it the fiddly way that RS suggested and if it all goes horribly wrong then I'll use a big hole in the foredeck to fix it but only if I really have to.
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600 732, will call it Sticks and Stones when i get round to it.
Also International 14, 1318 |
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Stevie_GTI ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 21 Oct 08 Online Status: Offline Posts: 134 |
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cut out your shape, easiest shape is a circle in my opinion. you need to tilt the blade so that when you have cut the shape out you can sit it back over the whole. (from the top of the blade to the bottom, the blade points towards the centre of the whole).Its best to draw a circle first and then make some marks on it so you know which orientation if fits back on. Then do your repair work in the inside of the hull. And to attach the cut out shape back, mix up a thick epoxy bog mix (bubbles, silica, microfibres), and apply a good amount to the edges of the shape, and the hole. Then position the shape into the hole and push down gently so the mix oozes out, trying all the time to get the shape in the exact correct place so it is fair with the hull. Let this mix go off fully.Use a long straight edge to assist with this. Then you will need to grind the gel-coat and a small bit of laminate away around the join, you need to be carefull you dont go into the core. Probably looking at a 40mm with of ground back area all the way around the join. You will then need to put 2 layers of glass over the area(only wet out the bits in the ground off area though!!), make sure this is consolidated well, and then peel ply over the top, if you have the facilities then vac this stage down. When that has gone off you need to sand the laminate so it is nice and fair and slightly below the height of the rest of the hull. Once you are happy with the shaping, it is the gelling stage. Providing all the previous stages went well the gel should be pretty easy. Apply the gel to the ground back circle (may need a couple of layers), and finish off by sanding through the grades and polishing.
Hope this helped |
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craiggo ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Apr 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1810 |
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Alternatively if your a bit lively with a jigsaw, once you have the area cut out, epoxy in some lap joints on all four edges (assuming you've cut a rectangle out). They dont have to be full length, just enough to support the cut out section when you put it back. Once you've finished the fiddly repair inside then bond the cutout piece onto the lap joints and then dremel a bit of a 'v' along the interfaces and fill with matched gel-coat.
Or give it to LDC or Ashdown Marine to sort out ![]() |
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