Rossiter Pintail Mortagne sur Gironde, near Bordeaux |
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Laser 140101 Tynemouth |
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Laser 28 - Excellent example of this great design Hamble le rice |
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Advantage of boom end sheeting? |
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tonyw3026 ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2 |
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What is the advantage of using a bridle off the transom and leading along the boom to a single block on the centreboard case, compared with a 4:1 tackle in the centre of the boom. Also how does the purchase of the boom end system compare with 4:1 in the centre? If the final block was on the transom it would be 2:1 which is equivalent to 4:1 in the middle, but how does the purchase compare when the final block is on the centreboard?
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Guest ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 21 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 0 |
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You can center the boom easier with the transom sheeting. Sheet loads are higher but you get more control (assuming you don't have a 2:1 at the end). Bit of a swine on a 2 sail reach. Cheaper to do. Must taper the bridel so the split end can go inside the block. |
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a_stevo ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: 29 Aug 05 Location: Australia Online Status: Offline Posts: 72 |
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endboom, and sheeting off the boom clears up the middle of the boat, allows you to sheet right into the middle, typically dosent let you pull leech tension with the sheet though. midboom, allows you to give the boom a lick mid gybe, and pull leech tension, but at the expense of space and boom in the middle, |
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Stefan Lloyd ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 03 Aug 04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1599 |
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Yes: a hoop also does the same, in classes that allow it. |
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Iain C ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 16 Mar 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1113 |
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Tony What boat are you talking about as there are different ways to get the extra purchase depending on class. RS200s will have the extra block on the bridle aft and alter the bridle length depending on rake, where a Fireball will have the extra "granny" block on the centreboard case. This is assuming you still have a jammer on teh case and are not going Enterprise/Mirror style. The gybing problem can be sorted with a gybing strop, and the 2 sail issue can be sorted by just taking the right fall of teh sheet straight from the boom, as Ben Ainslie does in the Finn. Personally I think hoops are a bad idea (unless it has a traveller like a Merlin) as you can't centre the main in the light stuff without getting loads of s-l-o-w leech tension. A properly set up bridle system (split end mainsheet or aft block) should allow you to do this fine. |
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RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs" Enterprise GBR21970 Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra" |
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Ian99 ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 07 Apr 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 138 |
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The "gybing problem" can also be sorted with correct sailing technique. I'm amazed by the number of people you see heaving the boom over in a gybe, only to capsize when the boom really crashes over. Best way to learn the correct technique is to sail a Laser in a decent breeze a few times .... with a useless ruddder and no gybing handle, you soon find out how to gybe without losing control |
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Guest ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 21 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 0 |
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Yeah, but the Laser gybing style wont translate to a 3 sail boat. Gybing handle very useful on many boats. |
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Cheeky ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Aug 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 59 |
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This actually one of the main reasons you go for boom end sheeting with a split main sheet bridle. As it allows you to pull ON leech tension. Also the reason that the crew sheets up wind in skiffs, becasue it is quite physically demanding to pull in big roach sails and keep enough on the leech. and in the gusts you can just easy the leach tension and let the leech twist with out without loosing much high through the boom dropping off the leeward. and theres room for movment in the middle of the boat. Gybing; just make sure you get the boom in before you go into the gybe so it comes across earlier in the gybe and doest create a load of momentum. I you leave it out the gybe happens at the end of a big turn. and comes across very quick. if you bing it into the boat first the turn is less to get the boom across and easyer to handle. |
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Iain C ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 16 Mar 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1113 |
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[/QUOTE] Yikes!!!! This may work in yachts but always up with everything going green in any dinghy I have sailed I prefer a decent gybing handle on something like a Fireball (obviously not an option on a Cherub or similar skiff (and let's not get back into the Cherub is not a skiff debate, it is, I've put it right at the end of the skiff wall and very high up so no-one can reach it) most importantly coupled with a well timed burst of "opposite lock" on the tiller just after the boom crosses the centreline. In big breeze if your boom is anywhere near the centreline whilst being sheeted in you will swim.
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RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs" Enterprise GBR21970 Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra" |
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Cheeky ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Aug 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 59 |
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iain in de Cherub ( like you sail ) and other fast skiffs
you have loads of apparent and your boom is in the middle of the boat ( or should be ) if you leave it out over the gunwale thats when it gets very messy in de gybe. keep it in and the gybes are sweet. this isn't the same for slow boats obviously. but even in a laser it help to get the boom in a little. |
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