What is the advantage of using a bridle off the transom and leading along the boom to a single block on the centreboard case, compared with a 4:1 tackle in the centre of the boom.

Also how does the purchase of the boom end system compare with 4:1 in the centre? If the final block was on the transom it would be 2:1 which is equivalent to 4:1 in the middle, but how does the purchase compare when the final block is on the centreboard?

You can center the boom easier with the transom sheeting.

Sheet loads are higher but you get more control (assuming you don't have a 2:1 at the end).

Bit of a swine on a 2 sail reach.

Cheaper to do.

Must taper the bridel so the split end can go inside the block.

endboom, and sheeting off the boom clears up the middle of the boat, allows you to sheet right into the middle, typically dosent let you pull leech tension with the sheet though.

midboom, allows you to give the boom a lick mid gybe, and pull leech tension, but at the expense of space and boom in the middle,

Yes: a hoop also does the same, in classes that allow it.

Tony

What boat are you talking about as there are different ways to get the extra purchase depending on class.  RS200s will have the extra block on the bridle aft and alter the bridle length depending on rake, where a Fireball will have the extra "granny" block on the centreboard case.  This is assuming you still have a jammer on teh case and are not going Enterprise/Mirror style.

The gybing problem can be sorted with a gybing strop, and the 2 sail issue can be sorted by just taking the right fall of teh sheet straight from the boom, as Ben Ainslie does in the Finn.

Personally I think hoops are a bad idea (unless it has a traveller like a Merlin) as you can't centre the main in the light stuff without getting loads of s-l-o-w leech tension.  A properly set up bridle system (split end mainsheet or aft block) should allow you to do this fine.

The "gybing problem" can also be sorted with correct sailing technique. I'm amazed by the number of people you see heaving the boom over in a gybe, only to capsize when the boom really crashes over. Best way to learn the correct technique is to sail a Laser in a decent breeze a few times .... with a useless ruddder and no gybing handle, you soon find out how to gybe without losing control

Yeah, but the Laser gybing style wont translate to a 3 sail boat. Gybing handle very useful on many boats.

[/QUOTE]


Gybing; just make sure you get the boom in before
you go into the gybe so it comes across earlier in the
gybe and doest create a load of momentum. I you
leave it out the gybe happens at the end of a big turn.
and comes across very quick. if you bing it into the
boat first the turn is less to get the boom across and
easyer to handle.[/QUOTE]

Yikes!!!! This may work in yachts but always up with everything going green in any dinghy I have sailed

I prefer a decent gybing handle on something like a Fireball (obviously not an option on a Cherub or similar skiff (and let's not get back into the Cherub is not a skiff debate, it is, I've put it right at the end of the skiff wall and very high up so no-one can reach it) most importantly coupled with a well timed burst of "opposite lock" on the tiller just after the boom crosses the centreline. 

In big breeze if your boom is anywhere near the centreline whilst being sheeted in you will swim. 

The "yacht" technique is the correct way for a dinghy as well, the only difference being that it has to be pulled in and released a lot faster in dinghies (less than about 1 second for the whole action) otherwise the boat slows down and you capsize.

Provided you have got a sensible amount of purchase on a mainsheet (i.e. not too much), an armful going in and out combined with a small amount of rudder movement at the right moment does the trick. I've never used a gybing handle on any boat I've sailed (Fireball, Laser, B14, Wayfarer, Miracle, GP14, Lark and a few more) and have capsized very few times, all of which were caused by nosediving or an out of control spinnaker.

Used correctly, the gybing handle will have the same effect, but having a handle that is easy to grip encourages you to attempt to haul the sail across before it wants to.

You're quite right Cheeky, I am talking here about big breeze in a boat like a Fireball, not a real apparent wind boat, gybing my Cherub is totally different (something like close eyes and hope for the best!!).  "Opposite lock" is an over-exaggeration, it's just a quick flick of the tiller by a few degrees just to stop the boat screwing up higher than you'd like on the new gybe.  Can't speak for Lasers though as I have never really sailed one.

In lighter breeze the crew should throw the boom over with the kicker whilst the helm tries to keep the kite flying through the gybe...not always the easiest thing to do though, especially with a single ended pole!!

with lasers you just grap the sheet below the boom as it goes through, never have a problem really, just give it a solid pull as it goes across