gunwhale repair

   I need to replace the first 6 inches of gunwhale at the bow of my boat, I am currently puzzling as to how I can provide some compression to the repair whilst the epoxy cures. boat is a scorpion, the foredeck is quite domed and so a regular bar clamp doesnt fit

any bright ideas gratefully received 

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sawman Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 04 May 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 205	Post Options Post Reply Quote sawman Report Post Quote Reply Topic: gunwhale repair Posted: 14 Feb 16 at 6:02pm
	I need to replace the first 6 inches of gunwhale at the bow of my boat, I am currently puzzling as to how I can provide some compression to the repair whilst the epoxy cures. boat is a scorpion, the foredeck is quite domed and so a regular bar clamp doesnt fit any bright ideas gratefully received

JimC Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Really should get out more Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6660	Post Options Post Reply Quote JimC Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 16 at 6:13pm
	Loads of parcel tape! If you haven't got to bend the wood then epoxy is better off without too much pressure.

sawman Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 04 May 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 205	Post Options Post Reply Quote sawman Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 16 at 6:23pm
	cheers Jim, I think it is a fairly straight section, I havent offered the repair section up as yet to fully see how much bend there actually is.

Rupert Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 11 Aug 04 Location: Whitefriars sc Online Status: Offline Posts: 8956	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rupert Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 16 at 9:03pm
	You can wrap the tape all the way round the bow. Duck tape also works. Don't leave the tape on too long, or the glue sticks to the hull, not the tape when you remove it.
	Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686

sawman Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 04 May 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 205	Post Options Post Reply Quote sawman Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Feb 16 at 8:23pm
	cheers chaps, I thought I would probably need more compression to get a tight joint, but I'll have a crack. the other thing I have been mulling over is vertical or angled join?

JimC Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Really should get out more Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6660	Post Options Post Reply Quote JimC Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Feb 16 at 8:30pm
	Angled every time.

sawman Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 04 May 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 205	Post Options Post Reply Quote sawman Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Mar 16 at 7:42pm
	I need to progress with this repair (been sidetracked with other things) Having cut back the damaged gunwhale to solid timber I note that the bonded side of the wood has a rebate running longitudinally - I presume this to accommodate filled epoxy? Also is it best to refine the profile of the repair section prior to gluing in, or will it be easier to do it once bonded. the repair section is about 5mm wider(taller) and squared off, so will need some planeing down to match

JimC Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Really should get out more Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6660	Post Options Post Reply Quote JimC Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Mar 16 at 9:24pm
	Not quite sure what you mean... pics may help. Shaping up. Depends on your skills to an extent. What you don't want to do is get careless with a plane and take a chunk out of the deck veneer. OTOH the underside of the gunwhale where it makes a 90 angle with the skin is a PITA to shape on the boat. But for sure you don't want to put it on and find you've shaved too much. I'd look to get the bottom as close as I could, but leave a few mm top and outside and sand to precision. Someone who's less of an approximate carpenter than I am could probably do it more elegantly. Edited by JimC - 20 Mar 16 at 9:28pm