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Gybing Plates

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iGRF View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29 Jan 16 at 11:11am
Originally posted by Daniel Holman


Originally posted by iGRF

You could 'spring' the diamond, so more pressure gives max angle and less pressure reduces it, but I'm not sure that's the way round you want it, then actually you could spring the other side for the opposite effect, wait a minute, this needs more dwelling on, so like a suspension ATB you springload with adjustable tension, I'm going to think further about this...


Woa, so what is this? I guess it's one of those International 14 things you see coming up on ebay for a fiver from time to time looks very narrow for something that has so much power (and string). So does the diamond form part of the case or is it a carrier for the daggerboard inserted into the case? They leave the daggerboard down as long as possible if I recall, Assym style I did work out why that worked, a collosal waste of power but I can see why it's effective, so they leave a plate down fully gybed even going downhill? Doesn't that seem a little draggy?

Edited by iGRF - 29 Jan 16 at 11:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gordon1277 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 16 at 11:01am
Grf
I think its and Int Canoe.
Boom to low for a Int14 and no carbon tubes for wings out the side, but I cant see the sliding seat either so not 100% sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote craiggo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 16 at 3:36pm
Its definately an International Canoe
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Strangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 16 at 11:40pm
Originally posted by iGRF

I need something simpler.


Graeme
If you haven't been to the post office yet to work out leeway, try this dummies guide to gybing boards. Although I do not use the term leeway its illustrated in diagram 5 non-gybing board.

Gybing boards
Please forgive the comic sans, it was written a long time ago.

Edited by Strangler - 31 Jan 16 at 11:42pm
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 16 at 3:08am
The problem with that piece is that the author has fallen into the trap of thinking the sails are sheeted relative to the hull rather than to the apparent wind.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 16 at 12:08pm
Thanks for that Strangler it underlines most of what I already knew coupled to everything else terminology wise I've picked up on this thread.

Lots of explanations always fall into the trap of assuming water 'flow' where there is actually none, time and again it used to come out in windsurfing where they all wax poetical about this and that fin design when the truth is unless there is tidal flow, mostly the water is static an we are passing through it, so the element of what we call apparent wind which is created by true wind and created wind as we all learned in sailboat 101 or whatever it was called in dinghy sail school (I'm thinking of rewriting it in terms easier to comprehend). Anyway that element in the other fluid, the water, is not served up in quite the same manner.

But, the way things function is still the same, and there is an 'apparent waterflow'. So just the same as we can have full sails and flat sections and alter their AoA (angle of attack) my feeling is that a gybing board should be used similarly, effectively by angling the board you are making the foil section artificially fuller if you'll pardon the pun, a fuller plate has more lift, but also suffers with more drag, so they get you going, lift heavy weights off the ground in transport planes etc but don't go very fast. Increasing the section until the 'apparent flow' is created to the point that lift from that 3 degrees is sufficient to overcome this thing you call leeway and turn it into what shall we call it 'headway'? (Funny I encountered what I used to refer to leeway yesterday when coming out of a windy tack close to an island and not getting the flow attached quick enough I began to slip sideways which is what I call leeway)

So what I think is required from a gybing plate is that it be variable and controllable, more so than the simple diamond that is commonly employed, had this been mountain biking we'd have push button controls by now like those employed in the uppy downy seat posts and adjustable suspension units, but it's not this is still 1960's England and the black arts of mystery are employed to keep you all guessing.

Anyway it's all a bit beyond my immediate requirements for my little Minisprint, but I shall endeavour to come up with an adjustable system if nothing else on paper, just to satisfy my own quest for life love and the meaning of everything...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Presuming Ed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 16 at 5:54pm
Oh dear. 

Angle of attack ≠ thickness. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 423zero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 16 at 6:03pm
You could cobble together a simple gybing board, your blade is to loose in slot, measure gap, cut 2 strips half the thickness of gap and attach to head of board (vertically), board will pivot round this point, probably not much, but it may give an indication.
How much leeway are you getting ?
I have not noticed excessive leeway with mine, mind, I have never sailed it without the new board fitted.
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