Hiking or Wiring

If they are at the top of the rope then the standard cleat with the additional eye is about all there is. I’ve alway gone for 2:1 when it’s at the top, but to combat the extra rope required I put a coarse adjust above the handle so I can shorten the actual trapeze line between races and keep a short adjuster.

Single sided cam cleat? RWO Lance cleat?
TBH, I generally like trapeze lines than don't release too easily.

There's a double pull strap system that used to be used for kite depower that would ease the issues of uncleating, quite what the range of movement is I need to check but it could be a better solution than traditional jam cleats.

Edited by iGRF - 19 Feb 18 at 6:54pm

Originally posted by boatshed iGRF, you've also gotta think about whether you will sheet the main straight off the boom and therefore have no mainsheet cleat or whether you take the main through a deck mounted swivel block and (maybe) a jamming cleat.   With the Farr is possible to have a 2:1 mainsheet on a rear bridle, sheet off the boom and have enough clearance to swing the tiller extension forward through the tacks, especially if the rudder it on a gantry. Leading the main to the deck, whether you have a cleat or not, will mean swinging the tiller extension around the back of the boat and that means you too will move backwards and sink the transom in the tacks; which is slow. The Aussies and Kiwis are born being able to helm, tack and trapeze with ease but being born in the northern hemisphere I find tacking a trapeze single hander can lead to multiple opportunities parking up, falling over and to giving your mates a good laugh.  To slightly mitigate this, I use a mainsheet cleat (not my teeth) - which really has to be on the deck - because at critical moments, it leaves both your hands available for the tiller extension and hooking on and off the trapeze hook.

I don't think it necessarily follows. To swing the extension around the back implies no mainsheet at the end of the boom at all, like a 600. Any sort of stern bridle or laser style traveller means either a very short extension, twin extensions or taking the extension forwards in tacks.
Obviously, taking the extension forwards means it has to fit behind any lines from boom to deck, whether that's kicker or sheet. Maybe the mainsheet could run forward along the boom, even right to the gooseneck, then back to a cleat.Maybe via a second block at the base of the mast. Some yachts do that, often double-sided with a winch either side.
When I had a go with a trapeze singlehander, as a newbie, yes I used the main cleat a fair bit. But maybe it would have been better to learn without a cleat. But that would have meant sorting out all those thing you need to cleat the main for, ashore. ISTR cleating the main for such purposes as re-tying my harness, sorting controls etc...
I don't know how the Farr behaves, but what I see of 600's, getting your weight forwards while tacking is absolutely key, otherwise it wants to go in irons, the centre main bridle is not your friend here.
ISTR 'Punk' had an alternative solution?
For my 2p, off the boom is the way, once you've re-learned. It's like learning centre sheet after olde-worlde transom sheeting though! (or maybe sailing a vintage Firefly if you have only ever used centre main?)

It's definitely possible to helm the Farr taking the sheet from the boom without a cleat. That's how I've set mine up from the start. Having no deck cleat allows the extension to pass forward and also allows hand over hand sheeting in front of you, rather than holding the main in your front hand and the extension in the other up by your ear. As you step out to wire you naturally sheet in and vice versa - no probs ! Mind you doing this with a kite would be quite the challenge :)