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Tacktick repairs

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ColH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ColH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Tacktick repairs
    Posted: 06 Feb 17 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by Greavesie

Hi ColH
The early one is the one with the power jumper and they can be tricky to get the "CAL" off the left hand display. I have found a rechargeable battery but you need to cut a leg off before you solder it in.
There is obviously a need for a repair service as I am surprised by the number of people who send me their units to repair having found this post. Having fixed quite a few now they are quite straight forward really.

"Tricky"? Is that the stuff I've read about pressing the buttons when prompted by the 'Tst' displays?
I've found a similar/same battery - http://www.allbatteries.co.uk/lithium-rech-industrial-battery-ml2430-hs1-3v-100mah-abl7602.html - as you say, needs a pin trimming off.
(Got the thing apart yesterday without too much trouble; my iron at home is a bit chunky, so I need to take it into work for decent iron and some solder wick).


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Greavesie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Greavesie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 17 at 9:05am
Hi ColH
The early one is the one with the power jumper and they can be tricky to get the "CAL" off the left hand display. I have found a rechargeable battery but you need to cut a leg off before you solder it in.
There is obviously a need for a repair service as I am surprised by the number of people who send me their units to repair having found this post. Having fixed quite a few now they are quite straight forward really.
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ColH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ColH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 17 at 2:08pm
Originally posted by Greavesie

Hi The battery change is ok if you have the correct kit. The problem you face it that the early units display an error code (ERR) when you replace the battery and you can't get rid of it.
I am happy to have a look at it if you want and say which type it is.
Let me know what you want to do.


Hi Greavsie, do you have any more info on which early models do this (how to identify one), and whether it is solvable? Mine is probably 10yrs old or more! (but does have the power jumper). I've not yet changed the battery - just looking to be prepared, in case.

Another thing I'd point out to people - be careful when sourcing a new battery. I've just been searching and have come across one which, though described as 'ML2430', isn't rechargeable.


Edited by ColH - 05 Feb 17 at 2:10pm
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PeterG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote PeterG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 8:37am
Thanks Greavsie.
Peter
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Greavesie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Greavesie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 16 at 4:57pm
Hi guys
Well finally after what has been a long time I finally cracked the "CAL" problem that comes up on the older Tacktick instruments.
You just need to follow the instructions on the New Zealand web site and with a bit of luck it all starts to work again with a new battery.

Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Quote zippyRN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 16 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by Oatsandbeans

Good on you-I agree 100%. This attitude is everywhere, we need to fight it! Why chuck stuff away when it can be fixed? 


and much as people despise a certain well known  high street electrical retailer,  in their  repair centre they have a cell of 'proper' techs / engineers  who  work on  developing  repairs for 'unrepairable'  per the manufacturer  faults  (or  faults where the only suggestion  from the manufacturer is to  replace expensive  components) as well as other  'difficult'  fixes ... 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pewit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 16 at 12:11am
I like the twin display of the TackTick but I'd like to link it to the more intelligent output of the Apps on my iPhone which could then be kept below deck.

Does anyone have the knowledge to re-engineer one of these with a Bluetooth module so that, for example, it could be linked to the output of iRegatta or RaceQs both of which have used Bluetooth for 2-way communications with the Pebble SmartWatch.

I know it would be possible to use WiFi for this but WiFi uses much more battery capacity.

Here's are some examples of interfaces
http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bluetooth-remote-lcd-display/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=TqZTBoepZsY
http://redbearlab.com/bleshield/
https://hackerspaceshop.com/products/teensy-ble

Development board (3.0 requires 3.5V input as opposed to the 3v of the TackTick)
https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html

Here's a teardown of a pebble SmartWatch which might be the basis of the module if you could power the display.
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Pebble+Teardown/13319

I know you could achieve the same thing using two phones but (a) it would be difficult to Synchronise them and the displays aren't as readable in sunlight.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote skiertwo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 15 at 3:19pm
Hi All,
I have a micro and a race master. Both, I think, need new batteries. Can anyone tell me if they use the same battery, or are they both different?
Cheers.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Alistair426 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 15 at 10:33am
Bullet already bitten and new one on the way. I was hoping I could salvage the old one as a spare but apparently not. 
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Greavesie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Greavesie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 15 at 10:23am
that sounds like the compass is unstable which would be a serious fault.
Maybe time for a new one!
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