Laser 140101 Tynemouth |
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Laser 28 - Excellent example of this great design Hamble le rice |
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Laser 161752 Tynemouth |
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List classes of boat for sale |
Gybing Plates |
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iGRF ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Mar 11 Location: Hythe Online Status: Offline Posts: 6499 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 27 Jan 16 at 10:17am |
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The reason (I think, just an opinion)it probably works better on two man boats particularly those 505 thingies that usually come loaded with half a ton of meat on the wire, is that there is enough power to drive it. it's been my experience using them on boards that whilst superb in light weather the moment the wind built it just scewed the board into a stall there just wasn't enough moment to overcome the tendency of the plate to that direction.
Now the reason I think it might be relevant to this little boat is because it is decidedly under boarded, it's a tiny plate and before I started in with the sander so flat as to probably not create any lift and to act just as a side slip prevention tool a la Finn. It made noticeable leeway, which it probably still might but with the plate angled and sailed free enough it might overcome, if not I have a cunning plan that might enable it to be switched off or adjusted without the usual knock at the back and having to retract it slightly. As it is the plate is so loose in the slot I will have to build it up anyway, so I though I might be able to fashion an adjustable angled device, we'll see, all these ideas are great until you have to actually fabricate them. Edited by iGRF - 27 Jan 16 at 10:19am |
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Rupert ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 11 Aug 04 Location: Whitefriars sc Online Status: Offline Posts: 8956 |
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Love to see the thinking and the effort, but suspect that simply making a decent board will see the greatest gains. Mind, be thankful that you have the option of real shape. The case on my wooden one is so narrow, a Mirror Dinghy board cut down only just fits! No real opportunity for shape there.
Will be trying the one I've made when I collect the boat from its cosy barn. |
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Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6662 |
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Its still lift. A flat plate will lift just fine, as we have all demonstrated with paper aeroplanes. And the amount of lift you end up with has to be the amount required to balance the sail. But, and its a very big but, the proper shaped foil will create that lift with a load less drag and at a much lower angle of attack (=leeway). And yeah, I'm sure you're right: if the boat is spectacularly underboarded it will need to sail with a lot of angle of attack on the board, which means the hull will be crabbing sideways more than most, which means that the gains from angling the board to align the hull with water flow will be more than most. |
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gordon1277 ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 24 Mar 10 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 665 |
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Jim Stop it please, has the world come to an end, you saying grf is talking sense on a techinal matter
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Gordon
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iGRF ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Mar 11 Location: Hythe Online Status: Offline Posts: 6499 |
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Is it not the case flat only creates lift when an angle of attack is presented, whereas a shaped foil adds an element of bernoulli (not sure of the spelling) effect, which supports your argument of less drag and therefore less leeway, either way a decent naca section is always better than flat, unless of course your head is full of meat instead of brains and you sail a Finn.
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Daniel Holman ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 08 Online Status: Offline Posts: 997 |
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Graeme, You can't get more power from a gyber, the "power" or side force is, in equilibrium, only ever equivalent to the righting moment that you are applying. On a dinghy it means taut you can run the hull at 0 deg leeway, which can save up to 10% of additional induced drag. Penalties of loss of buoyancy in case, junctions etc but some compelling wins Esp on under finned boats where you are loading the foils hard and doing in excess of 4 deg leeway. Fwiw we have estimated that cats lime dart 18 etc do about 7 deg leeway sailing upwind normally! A short board I'e skeg only probs similar. Anyway the reason it didn't work on your board is because, if correctly set up, a boat should have the side force shared to a large extent between board and rudder. In the case of the gyber, the board is yawed say 4 deg from the hull, and the rudder the same to keep balance, so it isn't necssarily seeing any weather helm but it's 4 deg over to maintain equilibrium in yaw. On the board, you yaw the CB, but can't yaw the skeg, so assuming you are running the skeg with a bit of load innit upwind, the board will want to be heading up the whole time because you have angled the dagger (fwd of Clr) a. Lot and not the skeg (aft of Clr) so unless you chop the rig fwd loads and run all the side force off the CB, so the skeg is not earning it's keep and will be wasted wetted surface, then you will have a board that won't stay in equilibrium |
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6662 |
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You still need angle of attack with a shaped symmetrical board. Maybe less, I'm not sure in real terms how much this varies. Its all about coefficient of lift and I couldn't quickly find a reference on line of how much the coefficient of lift of a symmetrical foil varies between sections. That's an interesting observation about fixed fins Dan, that hadn't occurred to me, but of course you are right. All part of the horrible mess sailors get into thinking about leeway, lee helm, weather helm and balance... Equilibrium between foils is a really good way of thinking about it. Edited by JimC - 27 Jan 16 at 1:08pm |
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iGRF ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Mar 11 Location: Hythe Online Status: Offline Posts: 6499 |
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Yes yes, that is exactly it, why didn't I think of that? Of course fixed fin and it was a round board with quite a rocker and they like nothing more than to head up at the best of times, so and I'd thought of this for formula, time for a gybing fin head..
So lets go back to sitty down things, so what's happening in our five ohs, are you saying the helm is on or about the same angle as the plate and if so that would be constant weather helm? Now I need to make my switch on switch off system then I could tell immediately, it must of course be so and it should therefore only be used in overpowered planing conditions so you kind of buzz along and instead of making leeway, actually crab to weather. Anyway, small boat under foiled, should I or shouldn't I? I could do without wasting my time this go round, got lots of other things that need doing. Edited by iGRF - 27 Jan 16 at 2:54pm |
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6662 |
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Yes, and then again no... There's a lot of muddled thinking about weather helm, and Dan's point about equilibrium and balance is a good way of thinking about it. Here's what I think: Sailing along in a straight line everything must be in balance. You've got a sideways load from the sails acting on a centre of effort somewhere between the two foils, and sideways load, normally on the both foils. Because there's sideways load on the rudder then because the blade is mostly or all behind the pivot it tugs on the tiller, and people think of it as weather helm, but its not as simple as that. Our first boat has a non gybing board, and in order to provide side force the board has to make an angle of say 4 degrees to the oncoming water, and we call that leeway, and again people think of it as a bad thing, but its not, its intrinsic to any boat with a symmettric foil fixed on the centreline. OK, so first think of the balance with all the load on the centreboard and none on the rudder. Mast raked well forward I expect. For the boat to be in equilibrium the rudder must contribute no side force. It won't be pulling on the hand in either direction, and it will be angled exactly to the water flow - so 4 degrees to leeward! That's what was traditionally thought of a balanced, but actually all the side load is on the board, so the rudder is being dragged through the water and doing nothing but contributing wetter surface drag. Next the rig is raked back a bit and so think of the boat with the rudder exactly on the centreline and going in a straight line. For this to balance then there must be proportionally equal side load on rudder and centreboard. The rudder blade is making the same angle of attack on the water as the cb, and this is probably the lowest drag configuration for a modern boat. The rudder is pulling on the helm's hand, so many people would say there is weather helm. So yes, but its *good* weather helm! Incidentally the 'leeway' will have reduced a bit, because with the rudder taking up some of the sideload the centreboard needs less angle of attack on the water. OK, so rake the rig back so its all over the rudder. There's near enough no sideload on the centreboard, first thing that we observe is that the boat has stopped making any leeway. No load on the centreboard, no angle of attack on the centreboard, no leeway. Next thing we observe is that because all the side load is on the rudder, its got to have a shed load of angle of attack to create the necessary lift. This means its got to be pulled well to windward, and we have shedloads of what was traditionally called weather helm, and we have loads of drag and having no leeway is definitely a bad thing! OK, so we now know that we want to have the rudder parallel to the centreboard (roughly). So now we fit a gybing board and the centreboard is angled to what the leeway angle was in the middle example. Boat makes no leeway. But to maintain the balance the rudder blade still needs to be parallel to the centreboard, so it has to be pulled to weather the same amount that the centreboard is angled, and it will pull on the hand by the same amount that it was. So on the one hand we could call it weather helm, but on the other hand its exactly what we want... So what we are doing with the rudder, in order to sail in a straight line, is actually to change the angle of attack on the rudder so the side load is shared correctly between the two foils. Dan, would you agree with the above description?
For what my opinion is worth, give it decent shape foils first and see if it still feels underfoiled and how much leeway you are making. Edited by JimC - 27 Jan 16 at 3:20pm |
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iGRF ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Mar 11 Location: Hythe Online Status: Offline Posts: 6499 |
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I'm getting confused with this term 'leeway' in my confused world it has always been a bad thing, to me it meant making ground more to leeward, slipping sideways instead of going forward, like setting the sail with no centreboard or rudder in place you would just drift downwind. 'Making too much leeway from pointing too hard and going sideways' would be a quote to put it into the context I understand.
Now what you pair are saying means something else, like the expression used in common parlance by none sailors saying 'we should get a move on and make some leeway' as an expressive use of the term. In order to fully grasp what your saying in actual fact this bit 'the board has to make an angle of say 4 degrees to the oncoming water, and we call that leeway, would better be described in order to make ground to weather (there is no term but humour me with 'weatherway')the board has to make an angle of say 4 degrees to the oncoming water. Or am I confused? f**k it I am confused! I'm going down the post office where I shall stand in the queue and ponder all this and come back hopefully enlightened. Edited by iGRF - 27 Jan 16 at 3:49pm |
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