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iGRF View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winter Projects
    Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:27pm
I guess I'll need a plastic hammer.
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iGRF View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:26pm
Plastic, Modern composite nails, nails that melt when you heat them up, nails that can be sanded away, I think they're a blinding idea, I read somewhere in all the blurb that they are used for modern boat building.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisB14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:19pm
Glue, glue, glue! Epoxy is a godsend (I repeat myself). It makes boat building much easier than it would be if relying on more classic glues and nails/screw.

Yes, we are speaking of a two pack epoxy. For wooden boat builds West 105/205, Gurit SP106 or Sicomin 5550 are all very well suited. You will also want some fillers to stir in (wood fibers, etc.).

Nails are just so ... how do I best say this? Century before last :)
B14 GBR 748 Bullet B
In build: Farr 3.7 GBR 410 (both sail number and the current number of loose parts)
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Medway Maniac View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Medway Maniac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:19pm
Originally posted by Do Different

What's the theory on reverse stems / ware piercing bows?

I can see straight stems maxing WLL to LOA and I guess I can see how the fine, very deep vertical bows on Cats work, preventing nose diving like the old Tornado and offering some resistance to leeway.

What is the benefit of coming back past vertical, weight saving for max WLL seems possible but minimal to me. Is going through a wave thought to use less energy than lifting the boat and crew weight over? When you go through don't you increase wetted area and displace more water than going over, chucking spray up and around must be wasted energy as well.

Not arguing, just asking.
My presumption is that by tapering the hull upwardly and rounding the top you enable it to emerge easily upwards out of a wave it has ploughed into (the way a normal bow cuts down into a wive instead of lifting the bow, unnecessarily pitching the boat).  The reverse bow simply results from that upward taper of the beam.

There may be more to it than that, but I can't see what.
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iGRF View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:14pm
Oh another thing, that glue you speak of is that a two pack epoxy or something else?
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iGRF View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:12pm
There are also proper nails made of plastic, one thing I can wield is a hammer, nod your head and I'll hit it..

But seriously I was thinking get it assembled then epoxy glass the leaky bits and the bits you kind of really want to stay stuck together and epoxy varnish the rest.

It's a bit of a weird shape that my main worry would be a fore and aft total snap in two failure, it wouldn't be the first time I built a boat which fell in two the moment I put it on the plane, being the first johnny to try and laminate kevlar we found out it's lack of resin absorption properties the hard way..

Edited by iGRF - 26 Nov 14 at 3:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:03pm
I dunno about that: staples are mainly to hold everything in place while the glue sets.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 3:00pm
Originally posted by JimC

Originally posted by iGRF

Can't they just power staple them

Ordinary staple gun staples are invaluable, but for a lot of boat building jobs they don't have the muscle to hold stuff down. Large mechanical fastenings that would have the muscle leave undesirably large holes in the wood when you remove them. Hence you end up with loads of clamps.

Plastic staples which you don't have to remove ought to be a good thing, but I haven't tried (and I'd forgotten about them when I just bought a big box of staples).


Got it Good tip that, who wants to mess about with glue when a power stapler with light none rust nails would do, this is good, I'm feeling a trip to the man cave tonight to work out layout.

Edited by iGRF - 26 Nov 14 at 3:00pm
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Do Different View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Do Different Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 2:57pm
Thinking on some more: you are never going to have the mass/energy/inertia whatever be truly wave piercing on a lightweight dinghy are you? So are we really talking about offering least resistance on that initial contact?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Do Different Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 2:37pm
What's the theory on reverse stems / ware piercing bows?

I can see straight stems maxing WLL to LOA and I guess I can see how the fine, very deep vertical bows on Cats work, preventing nose diving like the old Tornado and offering some resistance to leeway.

What is the benefit of coming back past vertical, weight saving for max WLL seems possible but minimal to me. Is going through a wave thought to use less energy than lifting the boat and crew weight over? When you go through don't you increase wetted area and displace more water than going over, chucking spray up and around must be wasted energy as well.

Not arguing, just asking.



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