RS300 Buyer's Guide |
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Kev M ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 05 Dec 11 Location: Landlocked Online Status: Offline Posts: 346 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 26 Dec 13 at 1:26pm |
Thanks for the input folks.
I've seen one early boat go for about 2k but there are so few advertised for sale it's hard to gauge their true value I think. I think 3k is still going to be a fairly early boat. Is the reason for 2 sails purely because of the risk of damage when righting from a capsize? I kind of had in my mind a limit of 2.5k for a boat with an old white sail to give me some spare change to go towards a new sail. Previous boats have been a Blaze and the current Phantom, I'm expecting to do some swimming (great time of year to try and learn a new boat!) as my technique is a bit more brute force than finesse but I don't mind getting wet. Now I just need to get rid of the Phantom to free up the funds for the 300.
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Successfully confusing ambition with ability since 1980.
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tmoore ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Nov 07 Location: Wales Online Status: Offline Posts: 880 |
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Kev,
As mentioned, for sub £3k you will be looking at a 305 - 420(?) numbered boat. If it is your first 300 then 2 sails is a must, depending on other boats you have sailed, you will probably spend a few weeks getting intimate with the underside of the hull/ daggerboard. Pulling the sail through water puts a lot os strain on the seams which are taped together so can be prone to splitting. An old one can easily be fixed with duck tape. As mentioned, lower masts can be an issue - easily fixed by attaching a half pipe of old boom to the front to spread the load - let me know if you need some. As for the booms, check when/ if it was replaced. The newer style ones have a double thickness at the gooseneck and at the mainsheet points, early ones didn't and were prone to breaking. Other than that, no major issues with the 300. Aim to get continuous kicker and cunningham, if not negotiate the price as they make a huge difference when sailing. Otherwise, good luck finding one not already sold and enjoy the boat. They are great fun and the class is really friendly.
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Landlocked in Africa
RS300 - 410 Firefly F517 - Nutshell Micro Magic RC yacht - Eclipse |
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iGRF ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Mar 11 Location: Hythe Online Status: Offline Posts: 6499 |
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sargesail ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Jan 06 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1459 |
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Russ is spot on. But I would really only worry about (4) and (3) mushroom and tube condition. The floor issue is normally confined to an area behind the raised deck in the cockpit....signs are cracked gelcoat, or a less than stiff floor. Even then not terminal.
The boom jaws are a problem area - but there is a fix.
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Ruscoe ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 10 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1514 |
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Wow is £3k still the price for an early boat? To be honest most of them were built fairly closely to each other, so i wouldn't worry to much about sail number.
What to look for: 1) Leaks, they leak around the dagger board case and the transom deck and hull joint. You will struggle to see the later as it generally opens up when the rudder is loaded. fit the rudder and lever the boat with it to see what you can. Also see if you can pressure test it if possible. Most of them leak, its the way it is but you don't want a sieve. 2) Rudder blade pivots, the blade is crap basically and the pivot hole elongates with use, it will need to be filled and re-drilled if it is oval shape 3) mast pot, is the metal mushroom still in the bottom, is the drain hole block or filled, is the mast tube worn. 4) Mast lower section, where the Gnav roller runs, the masts can split from use. 5) Check the floor for soft spots or inner bulkhead detachment, usually where you stand or run across when tacking. 6) the hull is a foam sandwich and dents easily, more annoying than anything else but have a good look over 7) Booms, worse designed part of the boat, believe they have now changed to a carbon boom (long over due) if it has the old alloy boom check the gooseneck fittings at the front, look down the boom for cracks here or loose teeth. I think that's about it, despite the above they are pretty damn bullet proof and honestly great, great fun. But remember they are all getting on a bit now (the boats) so expect some maintenance. Also double check the mast rake on boats between 501 (?) to 515 (?) as some had crooked mast pots, although i believe this has all been sorted.
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Kev M ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 05 Dec 11 Location: Landlocked Online Status: Offline Posts: 346 |
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One of the things I've rarely seen on class association websites is a used boat buying guide. It seems the only way to find out what you need to look out for is by scouring forums to see what people have been complaining about.
Perhaps it's because class forums often seem to be provided or sponsored by the manufacturer so they probably wouldn't be too keen on having something detailing their manufacturing/design faults front and centre. So, back to the original point of this thread. I want to scratch the RS300 itch next year, budget is £3000 max so its likely to be a fairly early boat. What are the common faults or weak areas with 300s that i need to keep and eye out for when trying to buy one? Cheers, Kev
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Successfully confusing ambition with ability since 1980.
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