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RS200 control lines

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laser193713 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote laser193713 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: RS200 control lines
    Posted: 08 Aug 13 at 2:34pm
Just about to re-rope my 200. The previous owner didn't do a brilliant job of looking after her so after a full job on the bottom of the boat it is time to do the fun bit, pimping!

Anyway... obviously the 16:1 continuous kicker is a must... got that mostly covered. How is best to hide the extra rope? I was thinking a couple of through deck eyes in the thwart and an elastic takeup system forwards either side of the centreboard case, having looked again it all gets a bit crowded up there so where is the best place to route the extra rope?

Same with the cunningham, this will be continuous too. Where does the extra rope go? Also, do you really need 8:1, it has 4:1 at the moment which is what I had on my 100 and that seemed alright. How do you get 8:1 without an incredible amount of clutter up by the mast? 

Lastly, any other must have pimping ideas? I have read all the guides online but most are dated 2002 etc... not much up to date stuff around.
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fab100 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote fab100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 13 at 7:25pm
Elasticate the forestay
Use a quick-link not a shackle on the jib tack (stops the sheet catching)
Elastic from chainplate to grab rail to fold kite-sheets under and keep em tidy
If the boom jumps off the gooseneck on a light wind gybe (old goosenecks were too short) drill a hole thru boom and g-neck for a split pin
Use a sail-slug (like on the clew) to attach mainsail tack to mast
Make sure the pole goes all the way out and the tack is tight to the pole when it is
Mark the kite halyard so the crew can tell when its up
Elasticate the bung so it does not block the bailer when you want it open

Finally for now, make sure the slot gaskets are not knackered - if so, brakes are on


Edited by fab100 - 08 Aug 13 at 7:26pm
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laser193713 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote laser193713 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 13 at 10:02pm
Elastic forestay is sorted, fitted a new gooseneck already. Sail slug sorted. Marks on halyard will be a job for next time. I use a soft shackle on the tack, two lengths to choose from. Bung already elastic.

Main issue is where to run control lines...

Edited by laser193713 - 08 Aug 13 at 10:04pm
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Stevie_GTI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Stevie_GTI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 13 at 11:57pm
Not 100% on the class rules, but I would check them before you go adding extra fittings to route your take up systems on the control lines.

Edited by Stevie_GTI - 08 Aug 13 at 11:58pm
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laser193713 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote laser193713 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 8:58am
You are allowed to drill a number of holes, cant remember exactly, think it is 4, they can be up to 13mm inside diameter and can have low friction bushes put into them.
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laser193713 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote laser193713 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 9:02am
1.3.19 A maximum of four additional holes, no larger than 13mm in diameter (excluding inserts or 
bushes), are permitted in the thwart moulding for passing or terminating control lines.
1.3.20 The order of reeving and the termination of control lines is optional the lines may be lead to 
handles, bushes, eyes or small stowage bags, simple elastic take-ups are permitted provided they are 
incorporated under the thwart moulding

Incorporated under the thwart moulding...? That doesnt give much scope!
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GybeFunny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GybeFunny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 3:57pm
I found an elastic takeup wasnt really necessary with a 16:1 kicker but I ran my rop over the thwart, however you could go for a 12:1 kicker which will mean less rope, you will just have to find a way of strengthening your forearms to make life easier ;-)

There was a thread not so long ago where it was suggested that by running the kicker from the grab rail, over the front of the thwart, under it and across in front of the mainsheet block then under the wart on the other side (hard to describe) then this means the excess rope doesnt afll back into the boat as much. Try doing a search.

Even if it were legal running the takeups along the centreboard case it would get right in the crews way, still better in the crews way than the helm eh?!!
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