rigging a 505

its an aft main in the sence that part of it is attached to the aft rather than a centre main. my 505 is very basic since me and my crew are very light for the boat. i was soooooo pleased with the boat on the sunday. nothing not one main structural thing broke. compared to the boat from scrath which was so tired, no mast foot, no rear deck in the aft, frount deck almost fallen through.

 

here are the pics you wanted, as i said, very basic rig but im improving it bit by bit. everything is done to last forever, slightly old pics:

 

In an aft sheeted boat, your effort is pulling on the end of the boom rather than the middle, this means you can sheet in much further becuase the distance from 'pivot' is greater therefore you can put on more force. This may increase the pointing ablity and you will because less tired out upwind because of the distance from the mast.

Yeah,

Nice F6+ on the thursday with very steep chop, ripped the lower pintels out the boat.  Could have been worse, there were 4 mast breakages!!!

The aft sheeting has a split tail main sheet attached to the back of the gunwhales.  Can you post a picture of the layout of the cockpit?

the international 505 website has loads of pictures of people doing up 5oh's.

www.int505.org

Not convinced on having a jib furler as it means you can't have a jib cunningham on.  I'm going to modify my boat to have transom sheeted main, seems to make the boat much faster upwind.

You can refurbish the Parker jib furler fairly easily.

Removal from the boat
Under the tape shown on the photo should be a rubber bung (might be missing) behind that is a pin that holds the bottom part of the furler inside a tube fixed to the hull. Carefully remove the pin with a pair of tweezers. The whole furler should now come out of the hull.

To refurbish the furler
At the bottom of the top part of the furler (underneath the eye of the jib luff wire) is a noeprene or similar seal. Remove that and teh bottom of the furler will push out through the top part. Catch all the ball bearings that fall out. Replace the ball bearings, ideally with stainless steel ones, but cheap steel ones come from the cycle shop and as long as the ball race is packed with waterproof grease, they will last a long time. Make sure the ball races do not have any dings in either of them to ensure smooth running.

To replace
Assemble in reverse order, packing well with grease. Fit the furler back into the boat and replace the pin. If it doesn't have one already, drill a small hole in the end of the pin and thread a thin piece of line through it to make it easier to get out next time. Replace bung or tape. Go sailing!

Hope that helps