bolts or rivets? |
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tmoore 
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Joined: 01 Nov 07 Location: Wales Online Status: Offline Posts: 880 |
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 Topic: bolts or rivets?Posted: 27 Jun 08 at 5:47pm |
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ok, ill use the rope and keep an eye on it until i get to a chandlery for some bolts. are you sure its A4??? a paper bolt doesnt sound that strong to me |
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RS300 - 410 Firefly F517 - Nutshell Micro Magic RC yacht - Eclipse |
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English Dave
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Joined: 10 Aug 06 Location: Northern Ireland Online Status: Offline Posts: 682 |
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Posted: 27 Jun 08 at 3:53pm |
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One more thing Tom. To add complication there are 2 types of stainless steel: A2 & A4 - you want the A4 (also known as 316). Sorry, but your best source is a chandlery for all this
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allanorton
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Joined: 21 Nov 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 228 |
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Posted: 27 Jun 08 at 1:50pm |
For future reference- As a general rule, bolts are to be used in tension, and rivets should be used in shear. Rivets should be used where the forces are acting sideways (in a shearing action) to the rivet, NOT when the forces are trying to pull the rivet apart. |
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tmoore
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Posted: 27 Jun 08 at 12:43pm |
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thats a good idea, ill remember that for the future. as it happened the drilling went ok and the holes are spot on. thanks guys |
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RS300 - 410 Firefly F517 - Nutshell Micro Magic RC yacht - Eclipse |
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Granite
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Joined: 12 May 04 Location: Scotland Online Status: Offline Posts: 476 |
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Posted: 27 Jun 08 at 12:31pm |
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For drilling the holes you can center punch as long as your punch is sharp the only area damaged by the punch is going to be drilled away.
If you do not want to do that you can put several layers of tape on to help stop the drill bit from walking or even clamp a bit of wood in place with a hole in it. Edited by Granite |
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If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
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tmoore
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Posted: 26 Jun 08 at 10:47pm |
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right ok, ill get some bolts and do it properly then..... thanks for the advice jim, appreciated |
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Landlocked in Africa
RS300 - 410 Firefly F517 - Nutshell Micro Magic RC yacht - Eclipse |
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JimC
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Posted: 26 Jun 08 at 10:10pm |
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If you put the string through holes in a tin boom it will chafe through amazingly quickly...
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tmoore
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Posted: 26 Jun 08 at 9:31pm |
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this is what i meant, will it be ok? Edited by tmoore |
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Landlocked in Africa
RS300 - 410 Firefly F517 - Nutshell Micro Magic RC yacht - Eclipse |
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tmoore
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Posted: 26 Jun 08 at 3:50pm |
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no russ, im doing it differently this time. the double block was twisting because of uneven tension on the kicker and cunningham. im using a single block and the cunni will have a 2;1 with the block on a rope going through the eye and dead ended on the boom. i need to splice everything again anyway because the kicker was cut...... is there anywhere else i could get the paste because i dont want to have to order again as i wont get it done in time for the weekend that way. you dont think replacing the eye with a rope loop will work then? or should i bolt them on, sail with it once and then i can add the paste before then next sail? |
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Merlinboy
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Posted: 26 Jun 08 at 3:44pm |
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Tom when i did my 300 boom recently i used stainless bolts which were actually already being used on the old boom although i think the outhall one was riveted on. The anti corrison paste is available from chandleries and is usefull to have in your tool box. i didnt have any problems withthe drill slipping just let the drill do the work and make sure its sharp! I would always bolt the eyes on. One more thing only ever use stainless bolts on a boat. You wont have to sre splice the rope again just make sure the double block (for kicker and downhall) is on the right way round and not twiseted when you re bolt it. Hope this helps.
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