Best pump action Spinnaker halyard Cleat???

   Cool cheers guys
Rope wise I'll check out the rooster product. Didn't know they had a Halyard as well as the proline mainsheet stuff... 

Was thinking of just using 2.5 sk99, with a thickener as you recommended

Still thinking about a possible 1:2 in the system either inside the rig or next to the forestry to get faster hoists...

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GG NHRC Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Newbie Joined: 12 Feb 17 Location: Lymington Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote GG NHRC Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Best pump action Spinnaker halyard Cleat??? Posted: 31 May 17 at 7:52pm
	Cool cheers guys Rope wise I'll check out the rooster product. Didn't know they had a Halyard as well as the proline mainsheet stuff... Was thinking of just using 2.5 sk99, with a thickener as you recommended Still thinking about a possible 1:2 in the system either inside the rig or next to the forestry to get faster hoists...

craiggo Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 01 Apr 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1810	Post Options Post Reply Quote craiggo Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 27 Mar 17 at 11:33am
	What Southsailor said.
	OK 2129 RS200 411

Southsailor Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Newbie Joined: 24 Mar 17 Location: UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote Southsailor Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 27 Mar 17 at 7:53am
	Use 3mm D12 for the halyard, pull the kite up and mark where the halyard is in the cleat, then take a short length (about 10-15cm) of 3mm D12 and splice it into the halyard where you marked it, effectively you're just adding a shore core of D12 so you end up with a short length of 6mm halyard. Best to use some whipping twine and add a couple of locking stitches at each end just to make sure it doesn't slip (it shouldn't as the D12 locks on itself). By adding a core you give the cleat a 6mm section to grip so you won't have any issues of slipping.

Sam.Spoons Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 07 Mar 12 Location: Manchester UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 3401	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sam.Spoons Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 26 Mar 17 at 10:49pm
	Stiff rope for the halliard. It feels crap to handle though. I haven't used it but Rooster have a low twist halliard rope they say is good to handle........
	Spice 346 "Flat Broke" Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish"

GG NHRC Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Newbie Joined: 12 Feb 17 Location: Lymington Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote GG NHRC Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 26 Mar 17 at 9:10pm
	Anyone have tips on avoiding the dreaded twists...?

Ian99 Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Posting king Joined: 07 Apr 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 138	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ian99 Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Mar 17 at 11:26pm
	The blue pump cleats are definitely the Northfix version. They last almost as long as the metal Harken cam cleats (i.e. longer than most boats!). After about 10 years of regular use they can start to slip, but a few seconds work with a file or a grinder resharpens the edge which grips the rope and gets you another 10 years. The crucial factor in the pump systems though is the takeup, and preventing the rope twisting. When buying both the halyard and elastic, make sure you see the chandlery take it off the reel. It's critical that it is unwound properly and not pulled off the side of the reel, otherwise you get twists built into the rope that are almost impossible to completely get rid of, and can jam the system really easily. These twists always show up for the first time at the point when you're leading the race on the inside on a busy leeward mark rounding, and never when you're checking the boat before the race...... Edited by Ian99 - 24 Mar 17 at 11:27pm

Noah Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 29 Dec 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 611	Post Options Post Reply Quote Noah Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Mar 17 at 9:06pm
	@ColH. The blue anodised pivoting bit in a stainless frame is, I think, the Northfix cleat. You are quite right though that the key to a good hoist is ensuring the take-up works properly.
	Nick D-Zero 316

ColH Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 11 Jan 06 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 242	Post Options Post Reply Quote ColH Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 24 Mar 17 at 5:56pm
	I had an old wooden (yet stunningly beautiful!) Fireball a few years ago. I don't recall the make of pump cleat but it was just one of the blue-anodised ones from way back when. It looked like it could have equally been made in a shed with a black n decker, but it worked perfectly. I suspect the action may be as much about having good take-up blocks and shockcord.

GG NHRC Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Newbie Joined: 12 Feb 17 Location: Lymington Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote GG NHRC Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 15 Mar 17 at 10:28am
	It's a great system for a swift hoist Thinking of adding a 1:2 purchase inside the rig to aid up and down. But not using a pump down system as used on canoes and rs700s

fogliettaz Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Newbie Joined: 19 Nov 08 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote fogliettaz Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 10 Mar 17 at 2:20pm
	Look no further. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag-3ipgrqas http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item.asp?cat_id=4&prod_id=141