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Epoxy system preferences?

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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisB14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Epoxy system preferences?
    Posted: 14 Apr 14 at 5:24pm
Thanks for the tip Al: I have started looking over the MSDS to get a better idea of the different epoxy systems (of course following some background reading on the different components).

A fourth option I have come across is Mas Epoxy. Given the 2:1 mixing ratio I would suspect they are straightforward to use. Yet, they have not been mentioned in this thread.

Originally posted by I luv Wight


SP 320 is a bit thinner and flows better, maybe better properties. Fast cure even with slow H.

That would also suggest it has a fairly short pot life even with a slow hardener? Or is it really just the final cure that is fast (I would expect the two to be linked)?

Thanks for the patience with my newbie questions!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Oatsandbeans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 14 at 5:29pm
Yes its a real sod that you have to put all that stuff in the msds - it makes it easy for others to pick apart your systems without them even having to do any real chemistry,( like sticking it through the gc or ftir,) but then I have got quite a bit over the years from the msds 's of others, even though sometimes you suspect that they have the odd porkies in them!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote alstorer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 14 at 9:46pm
Looking up the MSDS , I see 320 has a Bis F epoxy component (can't hide everything in the formulation!) which would, to a certain extent, explain the higher performance and cost.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote I luv Wight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 14 at 8:39pm
I do umpteen mixes in a week, and it's very very rare to get a soft cure  -  weighing - kitchen scales are good for mixes  30g  - 2 kg.  Pumps get gunked up, and don't measure accurately , so i use the big pumps for R and H just to get it out of the containers, but weigh everything.
e g for 320 - weigh resin , subtract 8g cup weight,  times 4, divide by three, add 8g = weight target with hardener.
I always have several kg of either resin or hardener left when it's time to buy more, so it's good to keep with the same system!
I think west 105, SP106, sicomin 5500 are very similar.
SP 320 is a bit thinner and flows better, maybe better properties. Fast cure even with slow H.
Sicomin SR8500 is thicker but is good when vaccing, fast H is relatively slow, and has good performance when cured at ~ 60°C


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Reuben  T Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 14 at 7:22pm
the pumps that can be bought with West are really useful and mean that you can get the perfect ratio every time without gaffing around with measuring/weighing(very good in a panicky situation with curing epoxy).
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Oatsandbeans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 14 at 6:15pm
320 is not just clearer 106 -it is a completely different animal. 320 is generally a higher spec system. I would go for what Andy says, he knows, as he has worked with most of the systems (- I just formulated them.)
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Post Options Post Options   Quote alstorer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 14 at 4:46pm
which is more reliable is purely down to your measurement systems. Really clever formulation can be done that makes the two ratios the same...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisB14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 14 at 4:04pm
Lot's of very useful comments and advice, thanks! The brief response is that I guess I will be contacting Matrix for detailed advice and materials for our build.

From what I can see West 105, SP 106 and Sicomin SR 5550 are all roughly the same price (if anything Sicomin a tad cheaper), with substantial variations depending on where you buy. SP 320 is a major step up in price, though. 

Andy: Is it simply that 320 is clearer than 106, or are there other benefits?

Let me see if I got this right: a resin system requiring 3:1 is less sensitive to small measurements errors than a 5:1 system? I assume that's because for a given error the relative effect is smaller?

It also appears that all three (Gurit, West, Sicomin) now specify both weight and volume ratios. I have found that people tend to hold deep convictions about which is the more reliable way to go. Off the top of my head, I would prefer volume (using syringes) for small amounts and weight for larger amounts. But maybe weight is the best way to go in any case.

Thanks again! Chris


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Post Options Post Options   Quote I luv Wight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 14 at 10:18pm
I like Sicomin SR8500 ( from Matrix ) for vaccing hulls and foils, and general purpose SP320 for bonding, filling  and coating.
I have tried many different other ones, but there's always seems to be some problem  - crystallization, too sticky, too brittle with an overnight cure, too fast, too slow, too brown, too shrinky as a coating, goes off, doesn't like damp or cold, too sticky residue on the cured resin, too bendy when cured ( SP Speedipack!), too smelly.
Measure with kitchen scales!


Edited by I luv Wight - 08 Apr 14 at 10:20pm

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Post Options Post Options   Quote craiggo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 14 at 8:27pm
I've used West by volume and by weight with no difference in terms of the results. The biggest issue is always amine blush but if using it as an adhesive with low density filler this doesn't usually present a problem. If you do use West, I'd recommend using 207 hardener (for clear coating). Once you've cut all your panels out, roller it on all surfaces. The only bit of the West system I've been disappointed with is the filleting blend which used to give a nice orange wood colour but now seems a bit beige.
In the Grad fleet they were quick to make use of West in the mid 80s and these have proven to be some of the most robust long lived competitive boats in the fleet.

I have used Sicomin resins when we built the C-class Invictus, but this was exclusively with Carbon rather than wood!!!!! Found it to mix out well and cure consistently. Wiz is always full of good advice and will make sure you get the right stuff, but I found it a bit pricey.

I've never used SP so can't comment on it.
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