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Alternative to drilling out fittings
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Andymac View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Jan 13 at 7:34pm
Originally posted by JimC

Clean all the rust off with Tcut or some other abrasive olish
 
Just a tip; on one occasion, being short of any normal branded cutting paste/polish, I tried removing some rust marks from the deck of a Laser (where a ferrous padlock had been left for a loooong time) with TOOTHPASTE. The results were excellent. Don't know if the 'whitening' brands aimed at smokers would be any better still!
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SoggyBadger View Drop Down
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Posts: 552 		Post Options Post Options   Quote SoggyBadger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 13 at 7:01pm
You wouldn't use pure epoxy as the filler but a mix of epoxy and micro-balloons. Mix into a thick paste which has just enough flow to go into the hole. When set it should be similar to wood to drill.
Best wishes from deep in the woods

SB

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rb_stretch View Drop Down
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Posts: 742 		Post Options Post Options   Quote rb_stretch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 13 at 6:29pm
The screws came out whole, so result all round. I reckon it was only the sealant and the corrosion around the threads that was holding the bung in there.
 
Given the boat is polyester I would have thought filling the holes with epoxy would subsquently make them very difficult to drill. That and I can't actually get a drill in there, which is, I suspect, why it was a bodge job after the boat was built. Do you think Sikaflex 291 isn't going to be enough?
 
 
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JimC View Drop Down
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Posts: 6660 		Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 13 at 6:00pm
That's a good result really. Did the screws come right out or are ends left in there? Clean all the rust off with Tcut or some other abrasive olish, fill the holes with filled epoxy and away you go:-) If the main hole is too big you could pad that with epoxy too:-)

Reckon those have to have been steel screws, very odd for stainless to go like that unless there's serious electrochemistry involved.
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rb_stretch View Drop Down
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Posts: 742 		Post Options Post Options   Quote rb_stretch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 13 at 5:28pm
There's an unspoken rule in boating that any job will take 3 times longer than expected. Well today I went to the boat to investigate further and broke the rule. After a bit of prising with a screwdriver the whole lot came out.
 
 
Not only were the screws really badly corroded, but the hole for the plug and the holes for the screws were really oversized. Obviously a bodge job on all fronts, thankfully.  Expect I will need a lot of sikaflex to hold a new one in.
 
Here is the offending plug. The chip off the bottom screw came from me poking the rust with a screwdriver to see if I could uncover the head. I reckon mole grips would have destroyed them before getting them to turn.
 
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JimC View Drop Down
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Posts: 6660 		Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 13 at 10:04pm
Originally posted by Andymac

Place mole grips on remnant and unscrew.


Just so long as there is room to manipulate the mole grips... I was assuming there wouldn't be...
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JohnW View Drop Down
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Posts: 552 		Post Options Post Options   Quote JohnW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 13 at 9:35pm
Almost certainly self tapping screws on a Speed Alb so Andymac's suggestion is the way to go.
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rb_stretch View Drop Down
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Posts: 742 		Post Options Post Options   Quote rb_stretch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 13 at 9:04pm
Originally posted by Andymac

I'd think about sacrificing the (softer) bung socket, carefully chisel/score through just to the side of the fastening. Once the bulk of the socket is removed from centre. you will just be left with the fastenings x 2 through little 'washers' of plastic. Place mole grips on remnant and unscrew.

That's a good idea. There is an inspection hatch not too far away so if I can contort myself into the right position I'll try and feel what is actually behind, screw threads or otherwise.....
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Andymac View Drop Down
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Posts: 852 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Andymac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 13 at 8:42pm
I'd think about sacrificing the (softer) bung socket, carefully chisel/score through just to the side of the fastening. Once the bulk of the socket is removed from centre. you will just be left with the fastenings x 2 through little 'washers' of plastic. Place mole grips on remnant and unscrew.
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Jack Sparrow View Drop Down
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Posts: 2965 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Jack Sparrow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 13 at 7:47pm
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