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oldarn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote oldarn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: V Twin
    Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 5:28pm
Originally posted by blaze720

I'm afraid I again suggest you ignore Mike L's minimum weight minimum diameter topmast. I was lost on the logic that it holds less water. It will certainly hold less air/buoyangy which is what you need initially.

Oldbarn ... more than half the problem is recovery FROM inversion.  Most boats will get there on occasion.  If you try and support /raise say 4 liters of water rather than 1.5-2 liters within a 6m or 7m mast you will find out what a significant difference it makes.  There is a LOT of leverage against you especialy when all the additonal rigging associated with a 2 or 3 sail rig.

Mike L.   

Mike
I thought you told me that you lived in a barn, I assume old. I live in a house.
One of us is having a bad day!

I thought inversion meant 'upside down', i.e. as photo. Water in water has no weight, so whether large diameter or small there is no load from water in the mast to bring the mast back to the surface. By the way,  my degree in Mechanical Engineering taught me no Naval Architecture, but, it did teach me about 'a LOT of leverage', oh, it also taught me that 4 litres of water was heavier than 1.5 -2 litres. Did you know 1 litre of water weighs 1 Kg.? and  at school I learnt to spell 'especially' and 'additional'!

Regarding inversion, it is best to minimise the likelihoohy of this happening, and it is my belief that it is an issue often ignored in dinghy designers.  In this thread I have been suggesting ways of preventing inversion and if inverted a possible way of bringing the mast back to the surface which is rather essential before hopefully righting the craft.

Mike, I did have two coffees this morning and I'm now looking forward to something even stronger.

Cheers

From one Oldbarn to another.
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timeintheboat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote timeintheboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 5:27pm
A problem with boats that have low tank volume (N12 AC and my old Lark) is that when they do come up they are just about swamped they are super unstable until the water gets going out.

Another problem I have seen (from rescue boat duty) is that the high floaters are more likely to go straight over again as they come up.

Low tank volume and self-draining would be nice.
Like some other things - sailing is more enjoyable when you do it with someone else
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G.R.F. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote G.R.F. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 5:22pm

These are those inflated racks I saw at the dinghy show..

And this


Is the scale of the problem in getting a short arse back over the other side quick enough to stand on the plate to ensure it's a 'dry' capsize


Oh, and ask me if the chuckle brothers in the Merlin were enjoying the moment or not... LOL


Edited by G.R.F. - 24 Apr 12 at 5:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote RS400atC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 5:15pm
I can't see that getting from inverted 180degrees to say 110degrees is much about the volume of water in the mast. It's about the stability of the inverted hull and the amount of leverage you can assert with your weight. Only when the mast starts coming out of the water does its water content matter, although buoyancy will start to help. In my experience of inverting RS400's it is worst when you cannot get your weight on the gunwhale and lean back, because there is too much chop. The key to leverage when the boat is on its side is often having little enough buoyancy that the plate is no more than about a foot above water, and a hull shape that means a weight on the bit of plate near the hull is the right side of the centre of buoyancy at that time.
The effect of waves driving the hull over the rig is a nuisance on the 400 where I sail. That can be a real fight to prevent inversion.
I can only suggest somehow losing some hull volume when it's on its side, perhaps dividing up the hull into chambers some of which flood. Other classes have done this with vented side tanks etc.
Like most boats, I think the 400 has too much tank volume. Look at a Merlin to see all you really need!
I agree with the concept of somewhere between 4 and 10 capsizes a year being acceptable, we'd have been close to the 4 in the RS400 last year if we had packed up in October, I blame our spate of winter capsizes on fumbling with gloves on. Alas I managed a good few capsizes crewing an 800, but they respond quite well to 2 engineers stood on the rack when inverted.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 2547 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 5:08pm

Try filling your mast with ping pong balls ... they are light weight, cheap and will allow for halyards to pass and the mast to bend. You wont fill the entire volume but it will make a difference.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote blaze720 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 4:12pm
I'm afraid I again suggest you ignore Mike L's minimum weight minimum diameter topmast. I was lost on the logic that it holds less water. It will certainly hold less air/buoyangy which is what you need initially.

Oldbarn ... more than half the problem is recovery FROM inversion.  Most boats will get there on occasion.  If you try and support /raise say 4 liters of water rather than 1.5-2 liters within a 6m or 7m mast you will find out what a significant difference it makes.  There is a LOT of leverage against you especialy when all the additonal rigging associated with a 2 or 3 sail rig.  The Vortex mast is also a bit of a clunker, and you will capsize less ofted with a low drag lightweight mast as well but that is not the main point being made.  You will not completely STOP a mast  flooding unless completely sealed when the top is 6 or 7 metres down either so it is better / safer or assume flooding as a reality if inverted for very long and have a related answer to the problem.   Sure you wan to avoid inversion in the first place but inversion is NOT the real problem here ... it is recovery from inversion.  A winged boat will 'trip' to inverted more readily if the tramps catch wind and wave (hence all the netting and string around !) than say your wingless Alto if not caught reasonably quickly in a breeze - so you really have got to be able to right from inverted without too much drama from a potential 'mast flooded' starting point.    If club sailors cannot do it with relative ease you have a whole host of problems to face .... and questions to pose.

Mike L.   
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Post Options Post Options   Quote oldarn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 3:57pm
Originally posted by tickler


Tickler, does your dinghy capsize, and if not why not?

It capsises far more than I find comfortable, the reason? The silly old fool driving it!
[/QUOTE]
I know the feeling!
What did the AltO design do to minimise capsizing while being a fast exciting boat across the wind range, inland and at sea.
1  Pick the most well mannered and foregiving hull shape, i.e. based on the nearly 60 year old John Westell's Five O Five design. This minimises gybing capsizes
2 Use self tacking jib
3 Lifting centreboard and rudder blade.
4 Incorporate an asymmetric kite
5 Minimum boom length.
6 Mainsheet off hoop as standard, not transom, though allowed.
7 Minimum boom height limited by mainsheet hoop height.
8 Minimum internal clutter
9 Balanced rig in all conditions.
10 Manageable sail plan
11Optimum rudder design by Phil Milanes.
12 sit in not on.

To minimise turning turtle
1i single bottomed floor.
2 correctly sized side tanks.

 Acceptable no of capsises per year, about 4.



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Post Options Post Options   Quote tickler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 3:13pm
Originally posted by oldarn

Originally posted by tickler



Can thought not be given to why it fell over in the first place?


Graeme, have you not worked out why you capsised your MPS, your RS500, your RS100 and your AltO? Most likely you decided it was because they are dinghies. Certainly with the AltO and I'm sure the V Twin alot of thought goes into this and since we know as human beings we will make mistakes however much capsizing is designed out , it will happen.  So unfortunately tickler, it will happen and the challenge is how to minimise the possibility of it happening and then when it does, how to make it recoverable by the crew on board.

The challenge in not how to prevent the capsize but how to recover from it, 'safely'

Tickler, does your dinghy capsize, and if not why not?

It capsises far more than I find comfortable, the reason? The silly old fool driving it!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote oldarn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 2:34pm
Originally posted by G.R.F.

Originally posted by oldarn

 

Firstly Graeme, what mast are you using and is that the AltO jib?


It is allegedly an RS700 mast and yes it is my original Alto jib, but without a jib track which I now recognise as essential.


From the photo on page 87 there are upper spreaders at two battens down and the jib sheave block about one button down with I assume the kite halliard above that, so as you say plenty of holes.
You must use a forstay. Does it pass down the inside of the mast for tensioning up the rig?

Somehow I suggest you seal the mast down to the upper spreaders or about two battens down. Much below that would not contribute much buoyancy initially. I suggest you take the main halliard externally down to about 75mm above the spreaders and not to near other holes or rivet, then drill an angled hole and pass the halliard back inside the mast. Take jib halliard externally say until just below the upper spreaders. If the forestay is internal, that will have to be, but take out sheave and take off masthead fitting before spraying. Stick up to say 10mm foam on outside of mast again down to spreaders.

I'm sure this is a must before any additional action. I'm afraid I again suggest you ignore Mike L's minimum weight minimum diameter topmast. I was lost on the logic that it holds less water. It will certainly hold less air/buoyangy which is what you need initially.  

Since the AltO jib halliard sheave is near the top of the mast, I assume the mast is shorter than an AltO mast leaving less mast above the holes to seal.,ff length takes ti, o
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Post Options Post Options   Quote rogue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 12 at 2:28pm
Originally posted by blaze720



....and if  you can persuade a few of them we can do you a cracking 'fleet' price ... and I'll buy the beer. 


they won't listen to me Mike...  LOL

I'll speak to the some of the committee and see if we can arrange a demo day in the autumns when we know the public outcome of the carbon stick or not. (either way doesn't bother me anymore, but I'd rather arrange demo when there's clarity)  

No need to publish the fleet price, I appreciate it would be volume dependent!!!

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