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ex laser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ex laser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Designers
    Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 2:15pm
+1
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jeffers View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jeffers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 4:03pm
The argument out coming up dry vs floating low enough to easily right is not easy to resolve.
 
Some boats have gotten around it by using a 'low bouyancy' design with flooding side tanks (some wooden Phantoms, Laser Stratos). They come up pretty dry but all that water has to be drained somehow.
 
Look at the ent, it floats perfectly on its side but come up so full that it wakes and age to empty, a noive crew is unlikely to be able to do it without a furth capsize.
 
Mast head floats are good on boats like the L2K as they do help to stabilise them on the side. They will not prevent inversion merely slow it down. The ones that go up the mast track are also very discrete if a little fiddly to get up.
 
The other answer is a permnanent mast head float (I have seen these on cats and on the Laser Bahia). The only on the Bahia is a caravan aerial casing apparently filled with closed cell foam. It doesn;t look pretty but it does the job. When I first saw a Bahia I though it looked stranger but for a family cruising boat and a bit of racing it does the job pretty well, much better than say an RS Vision. When capsized it floats high but not so high that you cannot reach the board.
 
Also bear in mind the RYA capsize recovery does not say you must get on the board. if you cannot then you can hang off the board, this is usually enough to get most boats upright (with a bit of weight on them of course).
Paul
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blaze720 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote blaze720 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 5:33pm
Another way to inhibit a tendancy to invert is to 'seal' the mast.   Not easy with alll designs but we use it on the Blaze - the halyard runs down the back of the luff track and the standing rigging is all attached externally.  The mast then provides an element of +ve buoyancy when the boat is on its side - plus the Blaze floats relatively low as little of the volume is in the cockpit sides.  However the mast must still be able to drain at the base as a small amount of water must be expected to get inside if you do invert  .. the top is a long way down etc !

It is more difficult with multisail designs or with carbon masts which need the halyard to run internally.  We wanted a similar inhibition to invert with Icon.  The hull hjas low volume again in the cockpt sides but Icon has a carbon mast so we do  run the main halyard down the inside BUT there is an epoxy plug at the masthead and we drill a hole that just allows the halyard to just get through - and with very little tolerence !  The standing rigging is all attached externally as with the Blaze and the jib halyard returns down the jib luff ( It has a 'zip-up' jib).  So water does not get in very quickly and gives a lot of extra time for the crew to right the boat before inversion. 

If you have a heavy alloy mast with lots of holes or even a heavy high volume carbon one with lots of holes inversion is much more likely - keep the volume low (ie ' as in a skinny mast') and the boat is also much easier to right even whan it fills. 

The other think I've noticed is that square top sails or ones that have a goodish  roach can also contribute to a slowing down of inversion - we don't specify sails on this basis but it is still worth noting.

If we ever do a spinnaker boat we will have to accept a few more holes of course but we will do everything possible to reduce the ingress of water and to keep the mast volume (and weight) down.

Mike L.
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maxibuddah View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote maxibuddah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 8:56pm
My Phantom mast is a carbon 60mm section carbon and it is sealed. It benefits me immensely on the few occasions that I do go for a swim, in fact enough to walk up the boom, step on the base of the mast and clamber over the top to the board. It works by having a cleat near the top at the front for the halyard and one at the bottom to take up the slack. It is the same principle that the RS300 uses. Without the Phantom will turtle quite quickly and there would be no way of doing what I said. You could apply the same on any mast, whether it is ali or carbon. The other benefit is that with the cleat so near the top there is very little halyard between the top of the sail and the cleat so little chance of stretching and therefore the sail will always stay at the top, so long as the cleat is good and the rope is not worn. Also means that as the rope wears you only have to trim off a little at a time (maybe 6-8") to ensure that the cleating remains good.

I'm not sure why more companies don't use sealed masts when they can as there is no need to be putting holes in most masts. Also makes a complete replacement of the halyard take only about 30 seconds, rather than minutes or more
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blaze720 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote blaze720 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 10:59pm
Maxibuddah

.... exactly .. 'boom walking' is very straightforward if the mast is sealed.  Why would anyone go in the water given choice ... ?  

Mike L.
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Medway Maniac View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Medway Maniac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 12:50am
The V3000 has a sealed mast and all-external halyards, including the spinnaker. While it doesn't absolutely prevent turtling, in most cases you can now avoid it, something that wasn't true of the L3k unless you went to some lengths to seal around the main and jib halyard holes (spi is external) with squashy foam and tape (works surprisingly well, but needs checking periodically).

The tendency of the L2000 to turtle is, however, much greater than the 3k's, and the centreboard of the capsized boat is higher above the water when a masthead float is used; I don't think merely sealing the mast would make anything like the difference it does on the 3k. For these reasons alone I find it difficult to recommend what is otherwise a super novices' boat. 

What the 2k (and the latest Wayfarer among others) needs is separate mouldings for the side decks and the double bottom, so that the 'seating' could be made non-buoyant, allowing the boat to float much lower on its side. This would add to the cost, however, something that does not appear to be in current boat builders' repertoire.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote oldarn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 10:29am
Originally posted by getafix


+1 for Laser 2000, I'd also add Wayfarer, Shrimper, XOD, Cant-Tales Merlin Rockets, Topper, Optimist and Mirror for good measure

I agree that some aspects of the L2K do make it a good beginner/family boat, but like the Wayfarer, the fact that both are very prone to turning turtle should exclude them from being a great design. I can't understand why this major downside of so many designs has been neglected. Buoyancy at the masthead just accepts failure in that aspect of the design.  Of course a carbon mast helps but is expensive and while a buoyant sealed mast is also a benefit, I suspect only as a result of it being cheaper!
I suggest that a major cause for turning turtle is the fashion for double bottom/self draining no doubt encouraged by product marketing, while disregarding the safety aspects of associated with turning turtle due to the additional danger of the lack of an air pocket if trapped inside the upturned boat. Is this good design?. I think not!
thefastexcitingrunningasymmetric
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olly_love View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote olly_love Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 10:53am
But boats with little air pocked are more likely to throw you clear in a capsize,
also if you have ever been stuck below a boat with an air pocket then its not a nice experience, especially in waves. where you can get hit on the head alot. and can become very easilly tangled
TWO FRANK-Hunter Impala


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oldarn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote oldarn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 11:10am
Originally posted by olly_love

But boats with little air pocked are more likely to throw you clear in a capsize,
also if you have ever been stuck below a boat with an air pocket then its not a nice experience, especially in waves. where you can get hit on the head alot. and can become very easilly tangled

I don't think L2Ks or Wayfarers go fast enough to throw you clear! If having been thrown clear, surely the boat is even more likely to turn turtle and then blow downwind.
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maxibuddah View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote maxibuddah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 11:14am
Originally posted by olly_love

But boats with little air pocked are more likely to throw you clear in a capsize,also if you have ever been stuck below a boat with an air pocket then its not a nice experience, especially in waves. where you can get hit on the head alot. and can become very easilly tangled



that happened to me in my first ever capsize when I was 7 in a mirror. Jib sheet across my throat as my dad pulled me from under the boat, luckily didn't put me off.

strikes me a self drainer with hollow side tanks might be better. There are several phantoms with this and in the past Marauders suffered the same and did something similar. Means that they float lower but shed the water as soon as they come up. Surely better than sitting in a bath tub duplicate water that you can't get rid of, or a boat that floats too high that you cannot reach the board.

the only prob with it is it takes a little more to build and therefore a lot of builders will stay away.
Everything I say is my opinion, honest
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