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Recommend me a swivel cleat |
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RS400atC 
Really should get out more 
Joined: 04 Dec 08 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3011 |
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 Topic: Recommend me a swivel cleatPosted: 20 Mar 18 at 4:49pm |
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RWO used to make a swivel block cleat specifically for the Laser.
The rules may have changed a bit since 1982 though? |
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JohnJack
Far too distracted from work 
Joined: 12 Mar 13 Online Status: Offline Posts: 246 |
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Posted: 20 Mar 18 at 2:09pm |
I have a niggling feeling that class rules actually allow it. If you get one of the ones with the shortened arm (think Harken do them) then space wise isn't too bad. TBH I never found much use for it, or the need to cleat the main.
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Posted: 20 Mar 18 at 11:41am |
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If you must put a cleat on a main, then a true 'swivel cleat' where the cleat is mounted on swivelling base a few inches away from the block would normally be my recommendation. However, on a laser, class rules and cockpit space probably rule that out.
You could get a ratchet where the cleat is mounted directly to the block. The problem here is that with the cleat so close to the block, you need to move the sheet through a larger angle to uncleat it (hard to explain in text). This isn't as much of a problem on a line you can get your hand within a foot or two to play, but I'm not sure this would be a good option on a mainsheet which you're often adjusting from several feet away. This is why most racing dinghies, if they have cleats, are like the one I linked first. Better solution for your laser may be: Do you have deck cleats? Those are definitely class legal, so I would fit these first if you haven't go them. Can be a bit of a pain to sit on. Or a ratchet with strong hold, maybe try one of these harken "Power 3" blocks. You could try the 2x power, with 20:1 holding power. I know it's not the exact same result as cleat, and may increase sheet wear, but it should reduce your sheeting loads without the need for the cleat. Again, this would be class legal and not rob you of cockpit space.
Edited by mozzy - 20 Mar 18 at 12:07pm |
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Mark Aged 42
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Joined: 24 Aug 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 98 |
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Posted: 20 Mar 18 at 11:23am |
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I know it's heresy, but at my age, and in my condition(!), does anyone use a swivel in a Laser?
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Oli
Really should get out more
Joined: 23 Mar 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1020 |
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Posted: 14 Mar 18 at 2:48pm |
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i reckon the gains would be worth it over a series.
keep us informed.
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Posted: 14 Mar 18 at 1:51pm |
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Yeah, I had read that some people have lead their jib back to the old main block and cleat. Can't think that being good for us, as in light winds the crew does the jib on/off before and after drops, bringing it out to me on the wire as we head up. That would be a lot harder if the cleat was behind them!
The only downside to the proper jib cleat position is that it's offset, so when you tack from starboard to port you need plenty of slack in the sheet, otherwise it will pull tight as you exit the tack and trip the crew / uncleat / pull out of your hand. Pretty easy to get in to the habit of giving yourself a foot or two of slack prior to each tack though.
I'll let you know how I get on with the new Harken fitting, it looks like it may be slightly different. Edited by mozzy - 14 Mar 18 at 1:52pm |
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Oli
Really should get out more
Joined: 23 Mar 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1020 |
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Posted: 14 Mar 18 at 12:58pm |
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got the same issue on our 800, when we converted i removed the main jammer, another 800 at the club kept theirs and fed the jib to it instead. It seems to work well, but i don't want the full main jammer in the boat so will go for the swivelling spinlock in its place and remove the current jib jammer.
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Posted: 13 Mar 18 at 10:45pm |
Its the 'standard size' harken cleat, not the smaller micro. Sheet is 6mm Rooster AllSpec which I would think is would be fine but I'll check all that when I fit the new one.
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Posted: 13 Mar 18 at 10:31pm |
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That's an old video, but I think dylan has been sponsored by allen for a long time, so I guess their version... but recently he has his name on this design. A bloke from our club offered me one as a replacement, but he also said he never fitted it because a new harken one on his new boat worked well.
I expect the a new harken one will solve the problem, so I'm going to try that first. With maybe a wedge. If I still have the issue we'll have to look at other ways of improving the situation. I hope the cleat has just been bent and it doesn't turn out I'm just being a weed! The jib is 3:1. Loads are really light, until you pull the last few cm on which really crank the jib leech tension. Still not ridiculously hurting your hands hard to pull on, but something I can't do with an outstretched arm. Was just the same on the 29er and 49er.
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Sam.Spoons
Really should get out more
Joined: 07 Mar 12 Location: Manchester UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 3401 |
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Posted: 13 Mar 18 at 7:41pm |
Sounds like a new swivel is required then as loads of play may well make it impossible. I have no trouble uncleating the mainsheet on the Spice from the wire, no flicking or snatching involved just a 'pull and lift'. The Spice has pretty heavy mainsheet loads but the dual swivel setup (kicker underneath) is pretty solid, even after 20 years use and abuse. No idea what make it is though....... Just a thought mozzy, do you know what cleat Dylan is using ion that video? A flick like that may well work with the Spinlock, they require very little effort to release as they have a totally different design to a conventional cam cleat (I think they borrow off rope clutch tech, clutches are designed to release under high loads, cam cleats are not). Edited by Sam.Spoons - 13 Mar 18 at 7:44pm |
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Spice 346 "Flat Broke"
Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish" |
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