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Beginner's guide to rig terminology...

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    Posted: 18 Mar 07 at 1:13pm
D1's (D for diagonal) do indeed terminate at the root of the spreader above.  They are used most in yachts where there may be D1's, 2's and 3's depending on numbers of spreaders.  D2's and above start topside end of the spreader, and go diagonally up to the base of the spreader above it. 
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Iain C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Iain C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 07 at 12:07am
Originally posted by redback

Lowers (Lower Shrouds) generally go up to around the Gooseneck but sometimes as high as the root of the spreaders and they control (or limit) lower mast bend.

Hmmm, disagree on that, you are mixing two things here.  If they are going up to spreader level then they are D1s (or D2s or checkstays) and are allowing you to hold the bottom 1/3 or so of the mast straight whilst bending the top, powering up the bottom, but with no sail controls applied.

As you wind on the kicker, unless you have a strut, chocks, ram or stump, you will force the gooseneck forwards, opening the lower leech and depowering, so to resist this you use lowers, a different set of wires.

Examples, my Cherub has an unsupported stump with no lowers but it does have D1s, a Contender has no D1s but does have lowers.

Cheers,

Iain

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Post Options Post Options   Quote 49erGBR735HSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 07 at 10:38pm
I'm not totally sure if this is the case for the 14, but for the 49er, 16 foot skiff and 18s, the tension in the caps effects mast tip flexibility and is loosened for heavier winds and gusty conditions as it allows the top of the leech to open up through the gusts to dampen the effects of the extra wind strength and straightens as the high force reduces. The rake of the spreaders means that when you bear away in big winds with loose caps, the caps go tight as force is applied forward. Our class race instructions say for 49er events, we are not allowed to adjust rig tensions during races and turnbuckles therefore shouldn't be touched. As the boat is pretty hard to sail in heavy wind conditions with a "tight" top-section, think that if the caps were the main defence for stopping the top section from snapping our race instructions wouldn't be instructing us not to touch them.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote redback Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 07 at 9:52pm

Yes Granite is ginda right but its a good idea to shorten the shrouds if you lengthen the forestay or your rig tension will be up the spout.

I deliberately looked at a 14 today.  Its has lowers and main shroud as I described.  On a closer look at the caps they go through a hole in the lower spreaders and over their own set of spreaders at about hounds height (Hounds - where the main shrouds meet the mast).  The caps come together again near the base of the mast and are controlled by a multi purchase.  Because both sets of spreaders are racked back any tension on the caps pulls the mast-head back which flattens the top of the main.  However this is not the main reason for having them the main reason it to stop the mast-head kite from breaking the top of the mast off.

So when hoisting the gennaker the proceedure is - bear away, pull in the caps, hoist the kite; and when dropping, bear away, release the kite and pull down, and then release the caps.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Granite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 07 at 10:10am
Originally posted by redback

Shrouds (or Main Shrouds) go over the ends of the Spreaders and finish at roughly the same hieght as the trapeze wires - these control mast rake. 


Main shrouds actually control the rig tension the forestay controls the rake.

try measuring the rake with different shroud positions but exactly the same forestay position you will find rake hardly changes but the rig tension changes alot.





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Post Options Post Options   Quote tickel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 07 at 7:49pm
Makes the ole' Tasar seem simple.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Villan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 07 at 6:03pm
Yup, Upwind without them, I bet the mast would probably snap, or bend off so far there is no power!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote m_liddell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 07 at 5:58pm
Originally posted by Villan

Ahh the joys of the Vareos shrouds .... Clip 'em on and watch as they go slack the moment you put any kicker on!


Even though they are very loose they do do something. I've seen a few vario's where the fitting had been pulled out of the deck.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob.e Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 07 at 5:57pm
As I understand it, the Vareo is like the Solo in that it has an "unstayed" mast, with shrouds to limit the bend, but which are loose in the resting position.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Villan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 07 at 4:52pm

I just put the pins in what looks like the right place ... 3 / 4 holes down ...

And pull on some jib halyard tension

--

I'm actually learning new things here! Knew about lowers but never actually "tuned" them ( Usually just tied them on just tight and ignored them )... And im unfortunate enough to have never sailed a boat with "caps" or "diamonds" !!!

Ahh the joys of the Vareos shrouds .... Clip 'em on and watch as they go slack the moment you put any kicker on!

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