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Recommend me a swivel cleat

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Daniel Holman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Daniel Holman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Recommend me a swivel cleat
    Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 4:10pm
I think the harken stainless plate bends when trodden on which is what makes the cleating less positive. The actual mechanism is a kind of captive stainless plate if memory serves. can't see it being too weary but there is always a fair bit of play in them. You can re- bend the stainless plate easily with mole grips .I ended up cannibalising the harken one and making a custom carbon swivel cleat base which works well.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote H2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 4:15pm
Sorry to jump in - but I have always favoured putting a cleat on the side deck independent of the block. That way its there if you really need it but it stops you using it when you should really be playing the sheet....sorry if this is dumb
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Post Options Post Options   Quote rodney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by iGRF

I'm trying to find a suitable carrier mechanism to try an off boom arrangement for Farrquaad. I like the positive on off action of spinlocks , you know where you are, whereas those other systems can act independently at times when you need it least.

Graeme, why re-invent the wheel?  The K1 off boom cleat seems to work well - http://www.vandercraft.co.uk/k1/price.html
Mainsheet cleat on boom£52.00
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by H2

Sorry to jump in - but I have always favoured putting a cleat on the side deck independent of the block. That way its there if you really need it but it stops you using it when you should really be playing the sheet....sorry if this is dumb

Are you talking about the Farr? This would kinda defeat the point of the self tacking jib on the 800. 

I think part of the problem is distance from the cleat. Say you have to lift the rope by 15 degrees to pull it out of a cleat. At 1m away that mean lifting the sheet 26 cm. Trapezing 4m away and that becomes over a meter that you have to lift he sheet in the air. Add a bit of play in and it becomes a nightmare. 

The cleat is probably 3-5cm from the turning point, someone with better maths than me could probably calculate how much each mm of wobble is worth when out on the racks trapezing. 



Edited by mozzy - 12 Mar 18 at 4:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote H2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by mozzy

Originally posted by H2

Sorry to jump in - but I have always favoured putting a cleat on the side deck independent of the block. That way its there if you really need it but it stops you using it when you should really be playing the sheet....sorry if this is dumb

Are you talking about the Farr? This would kinda defeat the point of the self tacking jib on the 800. 

I think part of the problem is distance from the cleat. Say you have to lift the rope by 15 degrees to pull it out of a cleat. At 1m away that mean lifting the sheet 26 cm. Trapezing 4m away and that becomes over a meter that you have to lift he sheet in the air. Add a bit of play in and it becomes a nightmare. 

The cleat is probably 3-5cm from the turning point, someone with better maths than me could probably calculate how much each mm of wobble is worth when out on the racks trapezing. 


Nope not talking about the Farr, but in my defence.....where did you say anything about the Farr?!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 6:52pm
I didn't say anything about the Farr, iGRF did. I just assumed you might be replying to the posts directly above yours in the thread. 

Agree, a cleat further away would be good, but in this case for the 800: 
a) against class rules 
b) you move around a lot so you'd need a lot of cleats 
c) it's a self taking jib, so it needs to stay cleated through gybes and tackes whilst you carry the sheet around with you. 

So I think a swivel and cleat all in one is the only option. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rupert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 7:07pm
Traditionally, one sends a wave down the rope to uncleat a jib, as lifting the rope in the air often simply doesn't work. Can't see why that would work in this case, too.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Wiclif Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 18 at 8:07pm
What about the new Allen centre mainsheet one where the ratchet block pivot point is not immediately above the swivel centre. This geometry means that the cleat is always pointing towards you

With my K1 Jib sheet I just use an ordinary fixed cam cleat with an “after” fairlead and this works just fine. Probably not an option in the 800 as you would be too far forward at times for it to work properly?

When I sailed a Contender it was interesting to see how many of the fleet had modified the standard centre mainsheet jammers. I remember we got very paranoid about a mm or so up or down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote fogliettaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 18 at 3:39am
What's wrong in using British made kit and supporting the British Marine industry?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Paramedic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 18 at 8:09am
Originally posted by Wiclif

What about the new Allen centre mainsheet one where the ratchet block pivot point is not immediately above the swivel centre. This geometry means that the cleat is always pointing towards you

What happens if you're not sitting on the windward side?
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