Laser 140101 Tynemouth |
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Rossiter Pintail Mortagne sur Gironde, near Bordeaux |
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Laser 28 - Excellent example of this great design Hamble le rice |
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List classes of boat for sale |
Removing paint of a Heron |
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winging it ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 07 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3958 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 18 Nov 10 at 4:30pm |
At the start of the year (pre several outbursts of surgery) I tried to strip my marauder with a heat gun. That also had coats of many colours and would not shift. A couple of weeks ago (post surgery) I had another go with the heat gun and it peeled off like sun burnt skin...very gratifying. In the meantime I had tried using the eco friendly paint stripper which had actually worked better then nitromors, then went under the knife so let it to bake in a boat shed with a clear plastic ceiling all summer.... I don't know what the chemistry of this process was, but it went from being really tough to really easy...
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the same, but different...
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rogerd ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 May 04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1076 |
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A good scraper makes all the difference and keep it sharp. I gave up on theB&Q ones and found a lovely wooden handled one from a guy who sold tools at a boot sale. Looks like he does house clearances and concentrates on the old boys work shop. Some really lovely tools at sensible prices.
Good luck with the restoration and when she is done come and sail with us at the cvrda.
Roger
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kfz ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Nov 10 Location: UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 96 |
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I'd completely agree with Roger on this one, I was using the type with long knife blade in but its a bit wide for curved surfaces on the hull. I found using an old chisel and keeping it razor sharp worked the best. Im told the tungsten ones are the ones to go for. Using a very sharp scraper it was actually best not to melt the paint just soften it enough so that it loses its adhesion then lift all the coats in one go. Kev
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PaulB ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: 15 Nov 10 Location: Sleaford Online Status: Offline Posts: 73 |
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I went from this........
![]() to this in about 6 hours with a random orital sander and a 1/3 sheet orbital sander to get a smooth finish.
![]() An hour later it was this....epoxy primer.
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rogerd ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 25 May 04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1076 |
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Very nice and looks much better varnished than painted.
My only concern using a sander is that it is very easy to go through the top veneer of ply. Not to much of a problem if you are going to paint but will totally ruin the look of a varnished deck.
I was told by a very particular woodworker that the old scrapers were madewith a softer metal than the modern steel ones and are much easier to keep sharp.
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PaulB ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: 15 Nov 10 Location: Sleaford Online Status: Offline Posts: 73 |
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It is going to be 2 pack painted. There are to many repairs to be varnished.
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kfz ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Nov 10 Location: UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 96 |
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Well nice work. You have more luck than me with the sander I find it just clogs with melted paint and leaves load of paint in the cracks. The N12 is timber isnt it? while the heron is ply so have to be careful with the sander not to take out the top veneer Kev
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Rupert ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 11 Aug 04 Location: Whitefriars sc Online Status: Offline Posts: 8956 |
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The N12 will be cold molded ply, so the top layer may well be thicker than the ply on a sheet built boat. Still easy to go through, though. Love the look of that 12 - good work! Amazed you were able to remove the paint so quickly just by sanding - the garage must have been a sight to see after...
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Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6662 |
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That's why these days I don't take my boats back to bare wood. OK its essential if you are going to varnish, but every time you do it you lose a little more strength. I'm now with the paint suppliers, who tell you that provided the old paint is still adhering, you should leave much of it on. I reckon now that I want a prepped boat to be showing about 50/50 undercoat primer, assuming they are distinguishable, with the odd bit of bare wood and top coat left. Looks horrible until you start painting again, but I think its better foor the boat in the long term. The downside of course is you lose all the satisfaction of the bare wood returning (and its a really nice sight :-)), but in my case I may be dealing with 3mm or even thinner ply, and it does no good at all to be removing any of it. Besides which I save an awful lot of effort in surface prep after the first coat goes on because there is so much less work to do in filling bumps, lumps, scraper marks etc etc... Oh, the other exception is if the plywood is already sick, and I want to try epoxy soaking it to keep it alive... |
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Rupert ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 11 Aug 04 Location: Whitefriars sc Online Status: Offline Posts: 8956 |
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Jim, I think provided you are doing planned maintenance on a boat that you know the work history on, you are quite correct. Picking up a wreck on ebay is a very different matter - if the paint is in that poor a state, I want to know what is going on under it..
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Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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