Laser 140101 Tynemouth |
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Rossiter Pintail Mortagne sur Gironde, near Bordeaux |
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Laser 28 - Excellent example of this great design Hamble le rice |
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The RS100 Owners Thread |
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greg b ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 10 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6 |
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Nice one, busy earning sailing tokens through November, but any chance ill be there.
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greg b ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 10 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6 |
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Nice one, busy earning sailing tokens through November, but any chance ill be there.
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greg b ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 10 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6 |
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Any news on the Draycot weekend. Defo need a fix before the winter sets in, if not any other suggestions??
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ChrisC ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 14 Jan 10 Online Status: Offline Posts: 169 |
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Graeme, your a Gent, a Skolar and.......a gybing God ! Thanks you for sharing your wisdom with me ! |
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Not now Kato (you fewl) !
RS100 421 (8.4) Ex - Vortex Assymetric 1090 and 1208 Ex - 49er NZL142 (crew) |
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Neptune ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Jun 09 Location: Berkshire United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1314 |
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Craigo - same problem with undoing the knot in the halyard...hence the loose clamcleats
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craiggo ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Apr 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1810 |
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The other option on the 600 was to take the tail of the halyard and tie a loop in it close to the exit from the mast. The remaining tail was then taken down to to boom bolt and back up through the loop, then pull. It was often enough to get you the desired pre-tension.
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G.R.F. ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 10 Aug 08 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 4028 |
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Done the mainsheet, it's back where it's started. But with that will come failed gybes, most of which occur when the stick gets engaged with the rear mainsheet as the boom comes across which I tend to activate manually, no idea how it's supposed to happen, but in the run up to a gybe in wind, first I look for a wave a la windsurf, then I soak, grab opposite spinnaker, nudge the helm enough to grab the boom and force it over whilst running up the side carrying the spinnaker sheet and reverse locking if it's breezy. The way I frig around with the wiggle stick gets me into trouble. I'd love to have the smoothness of action that guy they showed us in the video has holding it behind his back as he goes up the new side, looked very smooth. My gybes are always clumsy affairs, but they nowadays succeed more than they fail simply because they always used to fail and I've practised them and removing the rear sheeting helped my crap technique. Oh and I don't come 'up' on the new side anything like as high as all those boats who were falling over did, so it's a soak to soak gybe then harden up once the spinnaker is full. I think being a light weight you have to respect the power of the kite on either side more than one of greater bulk is able to.
Edited by G.R.F. - 10 Sep 10 at 1:25pm |
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Neptune ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Jun 09 Location: Berkshire United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1314 |
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Not quite sure what your getting at there....
What we do in the 6's is hoist sail as normal and then use the cunningham tied to the main halyard tail to get any stretch out of the halyard - other methods of doing the same think using two clamcleats which avoids struggling to get the knots out. Or if you are using vectran halyards you can use one of those hand-held clamcleats (like windsurfers use for rigging Powergrip they are called CL261 or CL262) and give the halyard a final heavy pull (on teh 6 we can use our body weight under the halyard cleat - not sure if you can do that
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ChrisC ![]() Posting king ![]() Joined: 14 Jan 10 Online Status: Offline Posts: 169 |
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Hi Graeme,
Upwind I don't think your centre mainsheet set up is doing you any favours here. My advice would be to go back to the original set up and give sheeting-from-the-boom a try - you will find it is very comfortable and enables very subtle continuous trimming allowing you to keep the boat on the sweet spot. For me this works really well and I don't use the ratchet (not needed because sheet load is so low) or the cleat. I leave the main cleated in the downwind position and simply let it run out and let go at the bear away. Any advice on gybing much appreciated as I occasionally resorted to dropping and tacking around on that long race on the Sunday. Cheers Chris |
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Not now Kato (you fewl) !
RS100 421 (8.4) Ex - Vortex Assymetric 1090 and 1208 Ex - 49er NZL142 (crew) |
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G.R.F. ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 10 Aug 08 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 4028 |
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Joking aside, on that water, with the 8.4 up gybing is not an issue. Grab the opposite spinnaker sheet, chuck the boom over yourself, S it a bit, it's a doddle. Given i spend most of my time trying to cope with the 10.2 which requires better timing, but is nonetheless do able if you've had the problems I've had over the brief period with the various asyms I've come to deal with in the sort of seas we often have to cope with. Though personally I'd trade my gybing skill with your upwind ability, even though I passed a few on the downwind legs, i lost so much more on the longer upwind bit. It'd upwind handling that defines this boat imho. And I'd always thought it would be the other way round.
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