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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rockhopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: The RS100 Owners Thread
    Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 7:52pm

Russ is correct in every way the vareo is almost set up the same way after having a year out of the vareo and sailing the 300 i found that you almost sail it like the 300 upwind and it was very quick for a vareo that is.

I dont adjust the outhaul at all when racing i use the kicker and cunningham all the time i find this helps alot with being in control rather than against you most of the things that the vareo and 300 use will work very well on 100 i would think.

Retired now after 35 seasons in a row and time for a rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 10:31pm
Thanks guys,

By the sounds of it a LOT more kicker is called for !!

Do you let the kicker off for tacking ?

Looks like a breezy weekend coming so plenty chance to try it out.

Tried to post a photo of me struggling upwind for some advice - my
linked images dont seem to appear for some reason.

Cheers

Chris30_213808_RS100_low_Res.jpg">

Edited by ChrisC
Not now Kato (you fewl) !

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Post Options Post Options   Quote spin cycle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 10:57pm
maybe on the  facebook  group  but  the  best idea  would  be  to  measure  from the  goooseneck  to the   roller  for  max  kicker  and  publish  it .  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Steve411 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 9:48am

Originally posted by turnturtle

Russ- 'yes'

Graeme- all good things to those who wait n all that...

8.4, it's like two boats for the price of one!

Ha! Ha! What's that girly small sail at the back?!

Steve B
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Steve411 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 9:59am
Originally posted by Merlinboy

Originally posted by ChrisC

Rob,

Thanks for your update.

I am pretty keen (very keen actually !) to find how best to depower the
10.2 for upwind in a bit of breeze - I was actually pretty overpowered in
not a lot of breeze !

Having not sailed a 300 I am not sure just how much kicker can be
applied - anyone got any advice on this ? I understand the principle that
initially kicker is generating power and that it then progressively reduces
power by flattening the sail and lowering the COE. Just not how much we
are talking here (dont want to break it !!).

Also I did find pulling on the outhaul helped. Initially the boom strap was
resting against the mainsheet tie-off point (i.e maximum eased) and I
was
getting hammered ! Found life easier later when I pulled it on some.
However, I note from the 300 tuning guides they dont really stress
outhaul as a depowering device.

I am looking for advice here as I have no experience at all in boats where
on the water tuning is critical. Most of my experience is in set-it-and-go
type boats.

With he 300, when you think you have loads of kicker on you are usually half way there!  In bug stuff, it would scare you 100 boys the amount we crank on, but it really transforms the boat.  I tend not to use the out-haul as an aid to de-power the boat, i use kicker and sheet control as well as pulling the board up a fair old chunk (say 30cm)  When i have run out of kicker, i pull on the cunningham, when i run out of Cunningham its basically so windy the world is probably going to end and the Phantom boys would only manage two out of the three races!

Second that. On the 300 we set up the gnav so that there is a bit of prebend in the mast when the kicker is fully off (blocks beginning to pull over the rollers). If you don't thave any preben you will not be able to get sufficient kicker on upwind in a blow.

When Russ says use lots of kicker he means use LOTS of kicker. It's all about power management. If you're overpowered upwind pull on more kicker, if you feel underpowered let a bit off. In an unstayed rig leech tension, mast bend and therefore sail fullness are all interlinked so kicker is the primary control. From top end of force 3 upwards be prepared to pull the kicker on block to block. In a 300 this means that the top of the mast is benind your sitting out position (i.e. loads of mastbend).

The mastbend means that the top half of the sail is board flat (Good) with power generated by the lower half. For this reason don't pull on much outhaul until it gets seriously windy as you'll need some grunt low down.

Steve B
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Steve411 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 10:37am
Originally posted by Steve411

Originally posted by Merlinboy

Originally posted by ChrisC

Rob,

Thanks for your update.

I am pretty keen (very keen actually !) to find how best to depower the
10.2 for upwind in a bit of breeze - I was actually pretty overpowered in
not a lot of breeze !

Having not sailed a 300 I am not sure just how much kicker can be
applied - anyone got any advice on this ? I understand the principle that
initially kicker is generating power and that it then progressively reduces
power by flattening the sail and lowering the COE. Just not how much we
are talking here (dont want to break it !!).

Also I did find pulling on the outhaul helped. Initially the boom strap was
resting against the mainsheet tie-off point (i.e maximum eased) and I
was
getting hammered ! Found life easier later when I pulled it on some.
However, I note from the 300 tuning guides they dont really stress
outhaul as a depowering device.

I am looking for advice here as I have no experience at all in boats where
on the water tuning is critical. Most of my experience is in set-it-and-go
type boats.

With he 300, when you think you have loads of kicker on you are usually half way there!  In bug stuff, it would scare you 100 boys the amount we crank on, but it really transforms the boat.  I tend not to use the out-haul as an aid to de-power the boat, i use kicker and sheet control as well as pulling the board up a fair old chunk (say 30cm)  When i have run out of kicker, i pull on the cunningham, when i run out of Cunningham its basically so windy the world is probably going to end and the Phantom boys would only manage two out of the three races!

Second that. On the 300 we set up the gnav so that there is a bit of prebend in the mast when the kicker is fully off (blocks beginning to pull over the rollers). If you don't thave any prebend you will not be able to get sufficient kicker on upwind in a blow.

When Russ says use lots of kicker he means use LOTS of kicker. It's all about power management. If you're overpowered upwind pull on more kicker, if you feel underpowered let a bit off. In an unstayed rig leech tension, mast bend and therefore sail fullness are all interlinked so kicker is the primary control. From top end of force 3 upwards be prepared to pull the kicker on block to block. In a 300 this means that the top of the mast is behind your sitting out position (i.e. loads of mastbend).

The mastbend means that the top half of the sail is board flat (good) with power generated by the lower half. For this reason don't pull on much outhaul until it gets seriously windy as you'll need some grunt low down.

As an indication my avatar is in a force 2. This is the mastbend in a force 5. Note the angle of the kicker bars to the boom.

Steve B
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Post Options Post Options   Quote asterix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 10:59am
wow that is a lot of bend - do you tack with the kicker still on?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Steve411 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 11:04am

Originally posted by asterix

wow that is a lot of bend - do you tack with the kicker still on?

If I'm feeling agile (not very often), or panicked into making a crash tack (quite often), or I forget (very often). Usually, if the kicker is block to block I let off a bit (so that the blocks are about 3-4 inches apart) so I can get under the boom with it brushing over the top of my buoyancy aid. With this amount of kicker the leech is pretty hard so you have to be positive through the tack or else there's a risk you'll end up in irons.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote ifoxwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 11:21am
I've never sailed a 300 but can fully believe that the
techniques being spoken of here will work just as well on the 100.

Each time I sailed the 100 in a blow I found that pulling
on the out haul just killed the power and made it much
harder to punch through the hailing chop so I used more and
more kicker plus some cunningham when it was howling.
Probably not as much as is being suggested here but i will
certainly be trying it myself when my boat arrives.

Ian
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Post Options Post Options   Quote asterix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 11:23am

Thanks

on being positive, is it a question of tacking well through the wind (>100 degrees or so) and then once on the new tack pointing up again?

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