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Steve411 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Steve411 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: The RS100 Owners Thread
    Posted: 30 Mar 10 at 9:48am

Originally posted by turnturtle

Russ- 'yes'

Graeme- all good things to those who wait n all that...

8.4, it's like two boats for the price of one!

Ha! Ha! What's that girly small sail at the back?!

Steve B
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Post Options Post Options   Quote spin cycle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 10:57pm
maybe on the  facebook  group  but  the  best idea  would  be  to  measure  from the  goooseneck  to the   roller  for  max  kicker  and  publish  it .  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 10:31pm
Thanks guys,

By the sounds of it a LOT more kicker is called for !!

Do you let the kicker off for tacking ?

Looks like a breezy weekend coming so plenty chance to try it out.

Tried to post a photo of me struggling upwind for some advice - my
linked images dont seem to appear for some reason.

Cheers

Chris30_213808_RS100_low_Res.jpg">

Edited by ChrisC
Not now Kato (you fewl) !

RS100 421 (8.4)
Ex - Vortex Assymetric 1090 and 1208
Ex - 49er NZL142 (crew)
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rockhopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 7:52pm

Russ is correct in every way the vareo is almost set up the same way after having a year out of the vareo and sailing the 300 i found that you almost sail it like the 300 upwind and it was very quick for a vareo that is.

I dont adjust the outhaul at all when racing i use the kicker and cunningham all the time i find this helps alot with being in control rather than against you most of the things that the vareo and 300 use will work very well on 100 i would think.

Retired now after 35 seasons in a row and time for a rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Merlinboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 7:23pm

Originally posted by ChrisC

Rob,

Thanks for your update.

I am pretty keen (very keen actually !) to find how best to depower the
10.2 for upwind in a bit of breeze - I was actually pretty overpowered in
not a lot of breeze !

Having not sailed a 300 I am not sure just how much kicker can be
applied - anyone got any advice on this ? I understand the principle that
initially kicker is generating power and that it then progressively reduces
power by flattening the sail and lowering the COE. Just not how much we
are talking here (dont want to break it !!).

Also I did find pulling on the outhaul helped. Initially the boom strap was
resting against the mainsheet tie-off point (i.e maximum eased) and I
was
getting hammered ! Found life easier later when I pulled it on some.
However, I note from the 300 tuning guides they dont really stress
outhaul as a depowering device.

I am looking for advice here as I have no experience at all in boats where
on the water tuning is critical. Most of my experience is in set-it-and-go
type boats.

With he 300, when you think you have loads of kicker on you are usually half way there!  In bug stuff, it would scare you 100 boys the amount we crank on, but it really transforms the boat.  I tend not to use the out-haul as an aid to de-power the boat, i use kicker and sheet control as well as pulling the board up a fair old chunk (say 30cm)  When i have run out of kicker, i pull on the cunningham, when i run out of Cunningham its basically so windy the world is probably going to end and the Phantom boys would only manage two out of the three races!

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Post Options Post Options   Quote asterix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 6:05pm

edit: deleted



Edited by asterix
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Nick Peters View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nick Peters Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 5:32pm

Hi all,

Following Robs mail - we are scouring the posts to get as much feedback as we can - if we need to make changes to presentation, manual, advice etc - we will - points picked up on so far:

1. Shrouds - yes they have a top and bottom - we will mark them in future to help the next guys - 200 manuals printed so it will miss this run!

2. Tape the heel plug - even if it feels snug - depending on the tiller ext you have it is possible to snag it with the outer end and pull out: Not totally sure about vaseline - with sand it is a nightmare: Just wash out occasionally.

3. Vang roller - we will check Selden do not overtighten the bolt in production - the arms should just slide easily either side of the mast and the roller rotate very easily - almost "sloppy". First batch of booms were like this and fine- Alex has added to our checklist. The first 10 or so boats we rigged fully and thus would have picked this up if it had been a problem to start with.

4.Sounds sensible to add shackle to outhaul to save un-tying the knot. - and a little hook for the cunningham - maybe - carefull not to reduce your available travel? Changes like these to ease user friendliness may be in the draft rules - but we will want to tweak these to incorporate good ideas through the summer - and then the first "official" rules voted in at AGM at Parkestone or St Raphael? 

As a general rule, the mast shuld be slightly prebent when setting up on shore prior to hoist - kicker and cunno will make them slack when afloat and on 8.4 they generally stay slack upwind as the mast is acting as unstayed: More rig tension to start with and you might get the windward shroud to just take some sideways load - but it might not be fast. On 10.2 with higher loads - especially sideways - the windward shroud will take some load most of the time - so much so that at times we thought it beneficial to extend the spreader ends out a hole or 2 for the real porky guys - seemed to help height. the ability to adjust the spreader length will be allowed in the rules as it is with the 200/400. 

Thanks to all and good sailing,

Nick.

Nick


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Martin Wadhams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 5:31pm

Guys, I have not got an RS100 Manual to hand, but thought it described the sail number position - apologies if not. Have a look at the RS100 photos on RSsailing.com - you'll see that the idea is to have the sail numbers above the national letters. This way they all fit fine and, we think, look better.

So many advantages to not being the first afloat GRF......

Martin Wadhams
Managing Director
RS Sailing
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 5:29pm
Rob,

Thanks for your update.

I am pretty keen (very keen actually !) to find how best to depower the
10.2 for upwind in a bit of breeze - I was actually pretty overpowered in
not a lot of breeze !

Having not sailed a 300 I am not sure just how much kicker can be
applied - anyone got any advice on this ? I understand the principle that
initially kicker is generating power and that it then progressively reduces
power by flattening the sail and lowering the COE. Just not how much we
are talking here (dont want to break it !!).

Also I did find pulling on the outhaul helped. Initially the boom strap was
resting against the mainsheet tie-off point (i.e maximum eased) and I
was
getting hammered ! Found life easier later when I pulled it on some.
However, I note from the 300 tuning guides they dont really stress
outhaul as a depowering device.

I am looking for advice here as I have no experience at all in boats where
on the water tuning is critical. Most of my experience is in set-it-and-go
type boats.30_212319_RS100_low_Res.JPG">

Edited by ChrisC
Not now Kato (you fewl) !

RS100 421 (8.4)
Ex - Vortex Assymetric 1090 and 1208
Ex - 49er NZL142 (crew)
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Rob.e View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob.e Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 10 at 5:00pm

Hopefully I've spoken to all the guys who have a 100 now- lots of useful feed back, thank you all! One suggestion was that on the 300 we used to mark the position of the Kicker at rest, then put it fully on and mark that spot (white electrical tape was favourite) and maybe have a few intermediate marks, so you could easily see where you are on the travel- I think the kicker could be critical, and certainly when I started in the 3 I was far too conservative about putting it on.

Anyway, keep it coming, and if I get anything that isn't on here, I'll pass it on to you all!

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