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Fixing dagger board chunk

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zailor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote zailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fixing dagger board chunk
    Posted: 27 Feb 10 at 2:28pm
How or what product do I use to repair a Dagger Board with a chunk missing on the trailing edge?

Its a CII one and I think its made from Epoxy? or a GRP foam sandwich, or whatever it is...you can tell I have no idea what i'm doing.

I have got a new one but fixing the old one would be good for spare/training.
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tgruitt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote tgruitt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 10 at 2:50pm
Can you let us know how big the chunk is that's missing, do you still have it?
Needs to sail more...
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zailor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote zailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 10 at 2:53pm
Chunk is missing its about 3inches high and round 1inch into the board.

A Knee came down on its trailing edge after sliping trying to rite the boat.

Also I have a few holes and cracks in my europe hull (im making myself sound like a boat vandal) is this the right stuff to fill gaps and holes?

http://shop.pinbax.com/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid= 32398
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Merlinboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 10 at 3:01pm

Take a photo of the board and the damaged area mate, then post it on here and i'm sure we could help, same with your Europe hull issues.

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dave.blakesley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dave.blakesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 10 at 11:35am
Depending on how big the hole is:

If a largish hole (large enough that if you just used filler it would end up needing to be repaired in the near future)
- Find something to reinforce the repair, screws work well or lollypop sticks! (Make suer you remove the head of the screws so they wont be sticking out the side!!
- Key surface using either a file or rough sandpaper. Take away some of the edge of the damage to help the filler to bond
- Clean with acetone to remove dust and grease from the surface (nail polish remover if you cant get proper acetone)
- For the first section of the repair use something like P38 (availiable from halfords or all good car body shops). Use it to fill as much of the repair as possible and then use tape (preferably duct) to help it to fit to the existing profile.
(Theres 2 ways you can go from here) EITHER:
- Sand back the p38 until it is just below the top surface of the board, and then add a layer of gelcoat to the top in order to blend the repair in properly

OR
- Keep the p38 as the top layer and use a car body spray paint + primer to blend the colours and add a layer or protection

That would be my way of doing it to a knackered board, im sure somebody is bound to pick holes in it or have better suggestions!

Few tips:- When finishing the board, use wet and dry, not ally oxide paper, and work your way up the grades until you get a very smooth finish. You can then use a polishing compound to make it look new again (i recommend flavela G6 followed by G3, and if you want to be really anal about it a coat of wax/or polish as well!)
- If the hole isnt large enough to warrant any kind of screws or supports, dont worry about adding any additional support, the filler will be strong enough.

Edited by dave.blakesley
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BarnsieB14768 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote BarnsieB14768 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 10 at 12:39pm
Hi, no probelm

Assume the board has a foam core. Get 2 flat none distortable say 6 x 3 inch pieces of material and cover on one side with parcel tape. You will also need 2 clamps.

The clean back to a fresh surface and make sure very dry. If you have a thin strip of laminated carbon or glass (epoxy), tel this in to the foam as this will give the trailing edge structural strength. Tape the adjoining surfaces of the board to protect against overspill. Then mix up epoxy with fibres only, till it starts to go sticky. Tape the two plates in place loosely so now seepage down wards can occur. Now plaster the area that has to be replaced. Gently clamp together the two plates. with the trailing edge vertical and leave to dry. Once dried, use stanley knife blades to trim down the proud area and a sharp medium file for the trailing edge (suggest laying a batten along the edge to check the curve). Then finally finish with wet and dry to 1200 grit and a blade on the trailing edge to remove the file's course cut. Have repaired many boards this way over the years. If you can post cure or place in the sun.

Have fun
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BarnsieB14768 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote BarnsieB14768 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 10 at 12:41pm
Do not use paint as it can be really bad if you later score the board Use the gelcoat method if looking for a pretty finish
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dave.blakesley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dave.blakesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 10 at 1:20pm
Good point forget to mention that barnsie reminded me of - Dont use a heat gun or fan heater to cure gelcoat/epoxy/resin/anything, will mean more work in the long run and a weaker repair.
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zailor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote zailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 10 at 5:37pm

Hi.

Would have put up the picture's sooner but on sunday I was in no state to get out of bed! and on monday the camera was playing hide and seek. you know how good inanimate objects are at hiding!!!

 

Anyway I hope they work

 

Bow^

Transom^

 

 

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dave.blakesley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dave.blakesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 10 at 9:29am
That bow and transom could be done with standard colour matched gelcoat filler, making sure the surface is well prepared in the same way you'd key the surface of the daggerboard. Make sure you acetone to remove the grease and dust and then sand back using different grades of wet n dry, i recommned 240 - 400 - 800 - 1200 - 1500
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