Hardware development |
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Gfinch
Groupie
Joined: 09 Nov 09 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 67 |
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Topic: Hardware developmentPosted: 03 Mar 22 at 8:11pm |
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We haven’t found a speed ceiling yet with the T Foil.
On the N12: 1) Stability at speed 2) Transom lift 3) Pushes stern wave back, tricking the water into thinking the boat is actually longer than 12ft 4) Can adjust angle to lift the bow up in waves In the N12, T Foils work on some of the older designs, but not so well in lighter airs, where a standard blade works better. On the Dead Cat Bounce, works well above 5kts of wind. |
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3513, 3551 - National 12
136069 - Laser 32541 - Mirror 4501 - Laser 4000 |
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JimC
Really should get out more
Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6662 |
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Posted: 01 Mar 22 at 5:53pm |
The more you lift the boat and reduce displacement the less water you are pushing out of the way, which is of course less form drag. Two sided high aspect ratio shaped foils lift the boat a great deal more efficiently than the one sided very low aspect ratio bottom of the hull. |
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eric_c
Far too distracted from work
Joined: 21 Jan 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
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Posted: 01 Mar 22 at 5:00pm |
Obviously they are banned in most classes. As regards the parameters for T foils improving performance, I think that may depend on whether you're slapping aT foil on an existing hull, or designing a hull to work with a T foil. I think some boats switch back to a normal rudder for light airs?
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getafix
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Joined: 28 Mar 06 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 2143 |
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Posted: 01 Mar 22 at 2:35pm |
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Hopefully this is the right thread for this question. I couldn't work out from the search results if such a thing has been asked and answered already, or not, so here goes.
I noticed a lot of t-foil rudders at the dinghy show and these are now on craft such as N12 where I understand they benefit all those wishing to actually survive a bear-away in F4+ by stopping the nose diving and enabling the crew to even contemplate gybing in waves as well. Systems to control the rake / angle of attack (someone feel free to correct) seem very well sorted, there very neat examples on canoes, the rainbow N12 and so on. So, here's the questions: i) do t-foil rudders benefit in other ways than just avoiding nose-dives? presumably lifting the back of the boat is advantageous upwind as well? If so, how? ii) is there a speed cut-off where they don't or won't work or be so ineffective as to not make it worth the extra hardware to implement?
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Feeling sorry for vegans since it became the latest fad to claim you are one
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tink
Really should get out more
Joined: 23 Jan 16 Location: North Hants Online Status: Offline Posts: 789 |
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Posted: 11 Feb 22 at 7:29pm |
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I was once sailing my IC and noticed the mast had developed a lot of rake. I looked to the bow and the whole of the foredeck was coming away from the hull and I was sailing with what looked like a giant biting mouth.
Got back to shore with the mast intact and all pins in place. Was on the start line next day thanks to 8 inches of 4mm stud iron, nuts, washers and some PU glue (works on wet wood and was only local available at the local undertakers)
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Tink
https://tinkboats.com http://proasail.blogspot.com |
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Sam.Spoons
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Joined: 07 Mar 12 Location: Manchester UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 3401 |
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Posted: 11 Feb 22 at 7:25pm |
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I think the point about fast pins is that they're only fast if used without any additional safety precautions...
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Spice 346 "Flat Broke"
Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish" |
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tink
Really should get out more
Joined: 23 Jan 16 Location: North Hants Online Status: Offline Posts: 789 |
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Posted: 11 Feb 22 at 7:18pm |
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Is there not a solution that is based in a drop nose pin with some plastic part that fits between the shroud adjuster and the drop nose so the drop nose can’t flip up. (Obviously trailer drop nose pins have a locking steps in the drop nose but with the random widths of things being pinned on boats this less likely to work)
Advantages > no separate rings > sheer area is full 6mm not 6mm minus area of fast pin mechanics PS - I use a 40 year old fast on my downhaul, never failed. I think it is critical to have a good gap between the side of the shroud plate and the locking pin to avoid any longitudinal stress on the locking pip
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Tink
https://tinkboats.com http://proasail.blogspot.com |
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423zero
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Joined: 08 Jan 15 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 3420 |
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Posted: 11 Feb 22 at 7:10pm |
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I always used stainless steel bolts with nyloc nuts on the Enterprise, no need for rapid adjust on a 20 acre lake, didn't stop the Starboard shroud ripping half the deck and a big patch of the hull off, totally destroying the boat, not the fault of bolts though. the strip of hardwood under the gunnel had quietly rotted away, was quite spectacular.
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Robert
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Sam.Spoons
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Joined: 07 Mar 12 Location: Manchester UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 3401 |
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Posted: 11 Feb 22 at 6:52pm |
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I have considered that but sticking bike inner tube over the shroud adjusters sort of defeats the 'easy to adjust' element. That said they are pretty much impossible to adjust on the water anyway...
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Spice 346 "Flat Broke"
Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish" |
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eric_c
Far too distracted from work
Joined: 21 Jan 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
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Posted: 11 Feb 22 at 6:49pm |
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I have the nice shroud adjusters which don't completely let go of the shroud when the fast pin is out. But I also cover the adjusters with some neoprene sleeves, you can also use push bike inner tube. It's pretty difficult to get the fastpin out with the cover in place. Maybe some sort of rigid cover would lock the pin in place? The risk is perhaps highest when people help pull boats up the beach?
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