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Oatsandbeans ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 19 Sep 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
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No body at the RS500 worlds last year( 64 boats), had their jib sheets tied to the trapeze handles( there arent handles just disks). I thought all that business went out in the early80's ( the yanks used to do it in Fireballs and 505s). Also the idea of teaching kids to sail a 500 with the crew taking the mainsheet which is not allowed, sounds wrong- teach them to do it right, from day one, they will pick it up, and soon be blowing you away by how good they are at it- kids learn fast but teach them the right way in the first place so they dont have to unlearn a bad habit!
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transient ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 21 Aug 12 Online Status: Offline Posts: 715 |
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Clearly, otherwise I wouldn't have said it ![]() To the OP: try it and see, if you don't like it don't do it. http://www.int505.org/old_site/trapeze.htm (see technique refinements and what to do with the jib sheet)
Crewing to win by Andy Hemmings covers trapezing in depth and gives pointers on crew/helm communication. Edited by transient - 23 Oct 12 at 2:41pm |
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Oatsandbeans ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 19 Sep 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
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I agree that continuous jib sheets are best, much less trouble, but I think that it is essential that they are just the right length, most of the SMOD boats have way too long ropes especially jib sheets. When they are right there is much less to tangle up and you dont have to back up a load of rope when sorting out the lazy sheet prior to a manouvere. Another crew whinge related to SMODs is jib cleat height, it is often wrong, that results in normally it being it impossible to uncleat from flat out on the wire, you should sort them out with shims to get it just right.
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pondmonkey ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Aug 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2202 |
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agreed- keep trap lines clean and for trapping, and keep jib sheets forward, connected and out the way of your feet and legs.
This is a helm issue... if s/he's come from a less powerful boat, maybe where healing is 'okay' and they've never played the main properly before, this will be a big skill for them to learn. Having crewed for people stepping into a 420 for the first time after Oppies, I can tell you not everyone finds it easy to play the main. Have patience, feedback as you'll feel it first. Failing that, take the mainsheet from the boom yourself and play it yourself from the wire so the helm can focus on the telltales and the waves to keep the boat driving. I know it's probably against 'class rules', but I doubt anyone will protest you if you're still both learning.
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JimC ![]() Really should get out more ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6644 |
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!! Obviously your mileage varies, but I find that setup a complete and utter nightmare: strings always under your feet.... For my taste the minimum clutter is a continuous sheet and the fairlead and cleat no further aft than the shroud, but of course on an SMOD you have to accept where its been put by the manufacturer. |
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transient ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 21 Aug 12 Online Status: Offline Posts: 715 |
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As others have said it sounds like the boat is not upright enough. Height on the wire is important as others have mentioned. Don't use a continuous jib sheet for the following reason: Tie the end of the jib sheet to the trapeze handle, it's always there then and it's less cluttered. Ease jib in the gusts or when you feel the boat pulling you over, if the helm moans tell him to keep the flippin boat upright then
![]() Ultimately the person on the wire can only do so much, if your doing all you can then most of the solutions to your problem lie with the helm...Is the so and so hiking? In my experience a lot of helms expect the crew to do all the balancing and don't hike very well. Is s/he easing the main appropriately? Again in my experience many club sailors (particularly men, it must be a macho thing) oversheet the main. Remember you are a team and you have equal say on how the boat needs sailing. If you're uncomfortable with how the boats being sailed tell the helm, be assertive and polite. Don't blame your self if it's a team issue. Discuss (or even argue) and then resolve. Get you helm under control
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Oatsandbeans ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 19 Sep 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
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Sorry that trapeze adjuster rope is 7mm Maffioli swiftcord. It is thicker than what most use, it runs well, but it is really soft, so good on the hands and is easily gripped by the cleat, so your rarely get dropped right to the bottom.
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Oatsandbeans ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() Joined: 19 Sep 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
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As the others have all said, the boat has to be flat. When it is breezy the helm has to continually play the main, out in the puffs and back in when it drops, if he isnt working hard enough on this you cannot trapeze confidently. (He doesn't really have much to do helming a 500 so you would think that he could get this right!
Second point trapezing height, you have to go low in the gusts, this means right to the bottom on the bit of rope that RS supply ( it is rubbish and too short so change it anyway to 8mm Maffioli speedline, this is great because it easily is grabbed by the cleat and is good on your hands, but still uncleats). To do this you have to get the hang of easily adjusting your height, as you will be raising and dropping yourself all the time, when you are good. Most crews struggle to do this when they start because they cannot get it out of the cleat. To do this, a little flick of the hips unweights the gear and the rope can easily be pulled put of the cleat, you must get good at this. This is the same technique for when you have to drop or raise your height. Third, angle your front foot towards the mast with your toes pointed and with the balls of your feet on the gunwhale. This will brace your front leg and make it much less likely to be thrown round the front when you hit a big wave. Twisting your body a bit so your shoulders are not parallel to the water will also stabilise you. There is a lot there but it isnt easy and most helms are rubbish at it anyway, so go out, practice and get good. If you want to see how it should be done there is a picture of Heather Martin (ex World Champion) on the RS500 web site doing it really well, feet close together, body twisted, and looking over her shoulder, study that and copy her.
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Rupert ![]() Really should get out more ![]() Joined: 11 Aug 04 Location: Whitefriars sc Online Status: Offline Posts: 8956 |
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Being short should help on the feeling of falling forwards, for the same length of trap wire, so it must be the helm. From other posts, is this your dad? In which case, shout at him... he should be used to it...
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Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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Mister Nick ![]() Far too distracted from work ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Aug 09 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 389 |
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Get your helm to sail it flatter, I helm a 500 and to be honest it's the best way to sail it (like most boats). You can help by playing the kicker in the gusts and calling the breeze to the driver. You should trapeze lower too. You're pretty small and presumably light so you should be flatwiring a lot of the time. Keep feeding information back to the helm, you have a much better feel of how much the boat is heeling by from the wire so tell them exactly how they're doing. If the boat is truly flat then it should almost feel like it is falling on top of you slightly. I was about your height and age when I started 500 sailing and I felt like I had the same problem. A big part of it for me was just trusting the helm not to dump you in and getting as low as I could for the conditions. The more trapezing you do the better you'll get at it.
Edited by Mister Nick - 22 Oct 12 at 8:31pm |
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