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doeywizard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote doeywizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: laser toe strap
    Posted: 18 Oct 12 at 8:51pm
Hi, 

I have an adjustable toe strap on my laser however it is very faffy to pull on and of when sailing, it holds well enough but just isent what I need to have to concentrate on when sailing. I was wandering what set up other people would recommend to use for a adjustable toe strap that holds well and is easy to adjust. I am only 5 ft 7 so the adjustable toe strap is quite useful for me. 

Can people also suggest what size and type of rope to use please.    

Thanks Isaac 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote frow3n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 12 at 9:12pm
Use the rooster one. I put it into my boat and its great! Also make sure you use the rooster elastic ect. :) all looks good as well :D
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Andymac View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Andymac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 12 at 9:43pm
A commonly used method which I use;
You will need around 1.5 Metre length of 6 or 7mm diameter rope.
I don't think you need anything too fancy like Dyneema which some people seem to use, any stretch will be negligable for this purpose. It relies on friction to hold when you've tightened it, so best with a rope with a reasonably knobbly covering.
 
Secure one end to the Starboard eye in the back of the cockpit with a small bowline, pass loose end through toe strap webbing loop, then through Port eye (out to in), then through the Starboard eye again but most importantly also though the eye of the bowline you first tied. Find maximum 'Off' and in the tail end tie an overhand knot on the bight (doubled up) next to the Starboard eye creating both a stopper knot to prevent the toestrap going any looser than you want it to and also a loop handle for you to pull it on tight. Trim off any excess.
 
Note; Tied this way round starting at the Starboard eye benefits at windward mark to port, when you will want to tighten the toestrap for the downwind leg.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Ginge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 12 at 10:06pm
There's a video on rooster showing how to do that way... It works for me, very well.
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Nihil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nihil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 12 at 9:22am
I'll even save you the trouble of having to look for it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1sICVj82NE  Big smile
 
I use the second method.


Edited by Nihil - 19 Oct 12 at 9:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Andymac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 12 at 9:53am
Originally posted by Nihil

I'll even save you the trouble of having to look for it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1sICVj82NE  Big smile
 
I use the second method.
 
 
The second method is the one I tried to describe. So much easier seeing it in the video.
I've tried the first method, but didn't get on with it. I always felt cack handed and I never trusted its security.
You should try all methods, and find what works for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote deadrock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 12 at 2:46pm
I started off using the one Steve demonstrates on his video. Though in his commentary he says it gradually slips towards the upwind (long) setting, I've never found it to do this. The main drawback is that you need a short toestrap (i.e. a long distance between the toestrap's rear loop and the eyes at the back of the footwell) to give you a decent range of adjustment.  This method didn't work, for instance, with the red-and-blue Aussie toestraps, which were too long. But with a short toestrap your toes are not under the toestrap offwind, but under the string. Not comfortable. Also, if you set your toestrap loose upwind to hike out further, you won't be able to get it tight enough for offwind legs.

The other method, described by Andymac, also has good and bad points: in favour, you can get the toestrap as tight as you want for offwind work, regardless of how loose you set it upwind, and regardless of the length of the toestrap. The drawback with this method is that it definitely does slacken off from the tight position. Reduce this tendency by using a thicker rope. 5mm is fine - any thicker and you'll struggle to pull it on and off. On a triangle course I usually try to remember to give it a tug before the gybe onto port, after which it's almost impossible to adjust on a tight second reach.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Nihil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 12 at 4:55pm
I'm really surprised you have found the second method from the video slips.  With a thick enough rope and assuming you tie it correctly (look at 4:38 in the video - the rope passes through the bowline loop and gets 'grabbed' where it passes through the deck eye) it basically can't slip.  You have to reach down and give it a sharp tug sideways to adjust it, which will never happen when you are hiking as your weight is pulling the toestrap up and forwards, causing the bowline 'grab' the other section against the deck eye even harder.  At least that's what I've found but I guess everyone's kit is slightly different.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote deadrock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 12 at 5:29pm
Thanks for that! I'd looked at the Rooster video but stopped viewing after seeing the first method. The second method is just as Andymac describes. Not sure about the diameter of the rope Steve is using. The max I've used has been 5mm; much thicker and it won't go through the eyes, but I'll see if 6mm will fit. Steve's advice about the bottle elastic is spot on.

For this method Steve leads the 'tugging' end through first, and then ties the bowline around it. It may be easier to tie the bowline first and work the 'tugging' end through. I'll suck it and see.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Ian29937 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 12 at 5:40pm
Originally posted by deadrock

For this method Steve leads the 'tugging' end through first, and then ties the bowline around it. It may be easier to tie the bowline first and work the 'tugging' end through. I'll suck it and see.
 
You can use the first line to help pull the other through by friction. I seem to remember loosening the screws on the fitting a couple of turns when I had a laser in order to get the thicker rope through, last resort though...
 
btw That looks like 7mm Rooster mainsheet to me
 
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