Laurent Giles 'Jolly Boat' Exeter |
J24 (Sail No. 4239) Dartmouth |
29er GBR 074 Tynemouth |
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A few RS600 questions |
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ellistine
Really should get out more Joined: 06 Mar 08 Online Status: Offline Posts: 762 |
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Topic: A few RS600 questions Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 1:02pm |
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If you do add a second clamcleat it would be worth getting the darker anodised version rather than the silver painted version. They should last longer and give it bit more bite.
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fudheid
Far too distracted from work Joined: 21 Apr 11 Location: 51.53 N 01.28 E Online Status: Offline Posts: 241 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 1:18pm | ||
the point is that standard rivets will do the job, they won't crush carbon (if its made properly) the issue is with metals reacting and in this case standard seasure rivets are fine (according to Rig Magic + other riggers we asked) lots of duralac....to stop electroylisis
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Cheers you
only me from over the sea...... |
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JimC
Really should get out more Joined: 17 May 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 6648 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 1:28pm | ||
Not so. There are issues are with how the rivets are used, not how the laminate is laid up. For example the hole for the rivet must be exactly to size, otherwise there will be damage. |
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Rockhopper
Really should get out more Joined: 16 Nov 07 Location: Eastry Online Status: Offline Posts: 642 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 1:45pm | ||
All i do with mine is pull as hard as you can to the top the tie off just after cleat just below the boom and it works a treat i had my cleat fall off in one race and the main stayed up
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Retired now after 35 seasons in a row and time for a rest.
2004 national champ Laser5000 2007,2010,National Champ Rs Vareo |
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fudheid
Far too distracted from work Joined: 21 Apr 11 Location: 51.53 N 01.28 E Online Status: Offline Posts: 241 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 1:47pm | ||
Only passing on the wisdom of one of the biggest riggers in the country. He uses standard rivets, had never heard of 'special' carbon rivets. Thought i was taking the mickey! I'm not a rigger but went to see them to ask about it, was a job a fairly pracitical person can do you just need duralac, be careful making the holes and then cover everything liberally with duralac. Obviously if my mast fails here i will eat my words
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Cheers you
only me from over the sea...... |
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craiggo
Really should get out more Joined: 01 Apr 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1810 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 8:31pm | ||
Back when I campaigned my 600, the standard practice for halyards was as follows:
1:1 Kevlar halyard. 1) Pull the main to the top of the mast. 2) where the halyard exits the mast tie a loop in the tail. 3) run the tail down around the boom bolt and back up and through the loop that you tied. 4) pull as hard as you can on the tail. 5) undo the loop and stow the halyard tail. This method allows you to get sufficient tension in the halyard to take out all the stretch in the halyard, and also induce a little pre-bend in the mast. If after this the sail slips down with cunningham use, then your cleat needs replacing. The alternative to the method above is to hoist the main to the top and then tie the cunningham tail to the halyard tail and use the cunningham system to pre-load the halyard. |
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RS400atC
Really should get out more Joined: 04 Dec 08 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3011 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 9:16pm | ||
It runs through a forged shackle at the head of the sail, so you just shackle it on. Securing it to the top of the mast varies from mast to mast, on my 400 it is threaded through a hole drilled the masthead casting. Other people put the end through a p-clip on the masthead sheave spindle and tie a knot in it. You have to watch for chafe, and maybe chop a couple of inches off every few months to lose the worn bit. I use a spectra halyard, excel racing. If you get the right size shackle, the main will go up just as far as tying it on 1:1, at least on my boat. The other thing on the 600 is getting the kicker slack enough to not have any leach tension when you are trying to hoist. The cascade lengths need to be exactly right because the rules only allow a 2x2x2x2 cascade. |
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Ian29937
Far too distracted from work Joined: 25 May 05 Online Status: Offline Posts: 409 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 1:01am | ||
The only point I was making in response to the "What are they? they asked" comment, was that they do indeed exist....
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r2d2
Far too distracted from work Joined: 29 Sep 11 Online Status: Offline Posts: 350 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 2:06am | ||
interesting practical thread. Any RS100 sailors here to describe the main halyard hoisting process for the 100? how much mast pre-bend do you induce with the halyard before putting any cunno on? Do you use these 2:1 loop methods? etc
by the way RS supplied standard (4mm I think) rivets to retro fit to the 100 carbon mast - they were / are fine but were on the limit of what could be done with a cheap non-scissor rivet gun Edited by r2d2 - 28 Apr 12 at 2:09am |
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Contender443
Really should get out more Joined: 01 Oct 04 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1211 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 10:03am | ||
The 100 has a cleat for the main halyard at the top of the mast, then the long tail is outside the mast and is secured to a bungy elastic. Therefore you only have about 10cm of halyard under tension. So little chance of any stretch in the halyard.
So I hoist the sail with no cunningham or kicker tension at all. I always make sure they are freed off as I hoist.
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Bonnie Lass Contender 1764
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