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RS400 buyers tips

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ChrisJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChrisJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 08 at 8:23am

The 400 has a slot gasket: well worth checking before buying. Not a pricey thing to replace, but it is very fiddley and worth avoiding at this time of year!

Foil edges (like any boat) get hit on the bottom of lakes...

Sails: mains last 5 or 6 years at the top of the fleet (shroud wear needs protecting against). jibs about 2 years - but they are the cheapest to replace. Spinnakers: 1, 2, 3 or 4 years - it all depends how many reaches you need to hoist and drop on: windward / leeward courses are MUCH kinder for hoisting.

The decks used to have cracks in them: but kevlar(?) was added and these should be OK now (and all 4xx boats affected were upgraded). Floor where the crews are should be OK (unless the crew was particularly clumsy!). Floor where the helm is should be checked: but again, that would be OK if he / she is not too heavy.

Look at buying direct from LDC: great after-sales care and their prices are not very expensive. If you are lucky, you might get things like a nicely polished boat and a new rope pack, so when you bring your new craft to the club everyone will admire it!

Cheers, Chris

RS400 1288

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Windy Peak View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Windy Peak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 09 at 9:21pm

Hi Geoff,

Great choice of boat, go for it. I got mine 18 month ago and just love it. Have owned and raced Fireball, 505's and Laser 4000 in the past but now race the 400 with my wife and having a great time. Bit of a handfull when the wind gets up but hey, we like swimming!

Anyway more to the point, on older boats look out for cracking and softening of the area that support the mast ram. I know of a couple of boats similar age to mine (and mines recently gone as well) where the fibreglass in the high load area begins to collapse. As mine was originally sea sailed it probably had a bit of a pounding at times. I had a local repairer fix it up for 150 and he did an absolutely stunning job - literally as good as new, probably better. Don't let it put you off though, just worth knowing and a bit of extra ammo when haggling over price.

Bob.



Edited by Windy Peak
RS400, 628.
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Jamesd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Jamesd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 09 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by

Anyway more to the point, on older boats look out for cracking and softening of the area that support the mast ram. I know of a couple of boats similar age to mine (and mines recently gone as well) where the fibreglass in the high load area begins to collapse. As mine was originally sea sailed it probably had a bit of a pounding at times. I had a local repairer fix it up for 150 and he did an absolutely stunning job - literally as good as new, probably better. Don't let it put you off though, just worth knowing and a bit of extra ammo when haggling over price.

[/QUOTE

 

Seen this a few times, this is usually a problem because the steel rod for the ram is at the wrong angle. basically the bush in the ali plate doesnt line up well with the hole in the deck. well that is one reson for the problem. if the ram seems stiff even without much load on the rig this is probably the case.

as for the masts breaking. there are new brackets for the spreaders to replace the turnbuckle types that use to seize up. dont offer any more support to the mast. the reason the masts break is that the main is eased too far downwind in stron

 

Seen this a few times, this is usually a problem because the steel rod for the ram is at the wrong angle. basically the bush in the ali plate doesnt line up well with the hole in the deck. well that is one reson for the problem. if the ram seems stiff even without much load on the rig this is probably the case.

as for the masts breaking. there are new brackets for the spreaders to replace the turnbuckle types that use to seize up. dont offer any more support to the mast. the reason the masts break is that the main is eased too far downwind in stronger breezes. (with the help of a bit of corrosion). the end of the boom never really needs to be much further out than the gunwhale at the back of the boat.  this acts as a backstay. you use the kicker to twist and set the sail.



Edited by Jamesd
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RTFM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote RTFM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 19 at 7:58pm
RS400 - leaking badly in only light air sailing...Couple of questions, are there any specific areas where these boats leak? -  so far found a couple of dodgy hatch covers/seals so far, rudder fittings, toe strap anchorages all OK... I am repairing a friends Rs400 and cannot get it to hold any pressure when testing with a hand pump via bug in the transom.. Also, does the RS400 have a 'breather hole' in the boat?  Boat is sail number circa : no. 700 Ta...
Mark
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 19 at 8:00pm
the stern hatch is a good bet.
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Paramedic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Paramedic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 19 at 6:24am
Originally posted by RTFM

RS400 - leaking badly in only light air sailing...Couple of questions, are there any specific areas where these boats leak? -  so far found a couple of dodgy hatch covers/seals so far, rudder fittings, toe strap anchorages all OK... I am repairing a friends Rs400 and cannot get it to hold any pressure when testing with a hand pump via bug in the transom.. Also, does the RS400 have a 'breather hole' in the boat?  Boat is sail number circa : no. 700 Ta...

I think there is a breather hole under the thwart.

Loads of soapy water and a pump will hep find it. If you're putting air in its coming out somewhere!

If its leaking a lot in light winds its got to be somewhere low in the cockpit floor, hull/transom join or rudder fittings/bung hole. Ive never seen one leaking at the gunwale but this is possible.


Edited by Paramedic - 23 May 19 at 6:25am
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RTFM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote RTFM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 19 at 7:33am
Thanks !-- will keep working on it...
Mark
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Sam.Spoons View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Sam.Spoons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 19 at 9:08am
I use a 12V electric blower/pump designed for inflating air beds to provide continuous low pressure in the boat. I wrap the nozzle in LX tape and push it in the bung then I can go around the boat with the soapy water.

My first candidate for leaks would be fittings but your light wind scenario suggests looking at the hull to centreboard case join.


Edited by Sam.Spoons - 23 May 19 at 9:10am
Spice 346 "Flat Broke"
Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish"
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Gordon 1430 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Gordon 1430 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 19 at 2:24pm
Very early boats had a bung under the main sheet tower, just by the bailer and you could not get to them to replace I ended up cutting it out and filling the hole. I think this was up to about 460.
Mine was 450. 
There has been a few problems with the Ram and post below so worth checking.
Great boats we had 14 out club racing Tuesday racing from early 600's to 1470ish and all competitive subject to sailors ability's.
Dark colours fade so worth getting a cover with extra long sides from Rain and Sun.

Gordon
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RS400atC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote RS400atC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 19 at 2:46pm
In light winds, the only risk areas underwater should be the centreboard case, mast step, control sheave blocks and aound the bow, where you have a towing eye under the flaps and various fasteners etc inside the bow. Front hatch covers. Hoop base fittings.
The bottom pintle is also a possible.
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