Laser 2 Jib halyard

   Our Club Laser 2 needs a new halyard for the jib, it has the original stainless one with a loop to fit over a rack.

I replaced the main halyard with a Dyneema one which works fine so would like to do the same with the jib halyard.

Plan is;
1) Take the rack off
2) Put two clam cleats in series on the mast to cleat the halyard
3) Use a bobble on the end of the halyard to attach it to the jib

Will two cleats be strong enough and idiot proof enough to take the halyard tension and the pull from the trapeeze?
What dia halyard should I use and what rope?
Should I splice a loop to attach it to the jib head or will the bobble method do?

Thanks, Riv

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Riv Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 23 Nov 13 Location: South Devon Online Status: Offline Posts: 353	Post Options Post Reply Quote Riv Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Laser 2 Jib halyard Posted: 16 Mar 20 at 5:09pm
	Our Club Laser 2 needs a new halyard for the jib, it has the original stainless one with a loop to fit over a rack. I replaced the main halyard with a Dyneema one which works fine so would like to do the same with the jib halyard. Plan is; 1) Take the rack off 2) Put two clam cleats in series on the mast to cleat the halyard 3) Use a bobble on the end of the halyard to attach it to the jib Will two cleats be strong enough and idiot proof enough to take the halyard tension and the pull from the trapeeze? What dia halyard should I use and what rope? Should I splice a loop to attach it to the jib head or will the bobble method do? Thanks, Riv
	Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.

Granite Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Visit Member's Homepage Far too distracted from work Joined: 12 May 04 Location: Scotland Online Status: Offline Posts: 476	Post Options Post Reply Quote Granite Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 19 Mar 20 at 11:34am
	Why not splice a loop in the bottom end and keep the rack? At top end you could splice a loop also and keep using the shackle. Using a bobble with a stoper knot would work but there is a risk it could slip out as the dynema is quite slippy. There are some tutorials on the web about splicing soft shackles into the end of dynema which are quite effective. I would say 4mm should be sufficient
	If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right

sargesail Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 14 Jan 06 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 1459	Post Options Post Reply Quote sargesail Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 19 Mar 20 at 9:41pm
	Phil, If only we had had spliceable dyneema for the AUSC boats...

Riv Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 23 Nov 13 Location: South Devon Online Status: Offline Posts: 353	Post Options Post Reply Quote Riv Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Mar 20 at 4:48pm
	Bend radius on dyneema is meant to be about 5 times the diameter, that's why I'm not going to use the rack. Will 2 clam cleats in series work well enough?
	Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.