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iGRF View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 19 at 6:43pm
Yes, I forgot, it's got these blue mast wedgey things, I bunged one in the front so the mast raked a bit and it looked 'right'. It's got continuous lines like the Solution and in the same place, so not difficult to switch from one boat to another, my Farr 3.7 also has continuous control lines also in the same place.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Fatboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 8:16am
If you are overpoered leave the chocks out. It will allow the mast to bend a bit more and depower.

What mast do you have with it? There are quite a few different ones, all with different stiffnesses and suited to differing weights. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 9:00am
Originally posted by Fatboi

If you are overpoered leave the chocks out. It will allow the mast to bend a bit more and depower.
What mast do you have with it? There are quite a few different ones, all with different stiffnesses and suited to differing weights. 
And you believe that? It's Metal, so crap, it's a Selden C-Sleeved whatever that means, I doubt very much if it's likely to bend much at all, that's the thing with ally if you let it bend any distance where it's likely to work, it'll stay bent.

But thanks for the info about the chocks, it was a bit breezy the first couple of times so I bunged one in the front to rake the mast a bit in order to depower a tad.

It does however have a very nice sail, well, very nice for the late seventies early eighties, feels like a CYT, with a composite laminate trailing edge, very tuneable, takes me back to my almost youth.

I shall give it another go this avo, there might be other Solos to compare against, it's all very well trying to keep up with Lasers which makes you do all sorts of not exactly dirty tricks, but lets call it obstructive tactics which I don't like doing, never have, much nicer to sail free and as fast as possible which only works if the other boats are not inherently faster than you doesn't it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Fatboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 10:09am
Yes I do, the wall thickness of the Ali and the profile, as well as if there is a sleeve will make a huge difference! The difference between the wavelength masts and Selden D-Plus is huge! When I was smaller I had a wavelength and wavelength sail. It was an amazing combo and great for sub 75kgs. 

Your mast could be a few variations. Table below taken from Sailboats, which is a useful guide.

SectionSailo WeightStiffness F/AStiffness Athwart
C Sleeved<75Kg14.19.8
D Plus75-90Kg20.013.8
Cumulus>90Kg>90Kg 14.4


Edited by Fatboi - 24 Apr 19 at 10:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote davidyacht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 11:14am
C sleeved would have been the choice mast for the lighter weight, so nothing wrong with that, especially at the lake.  My guess is that you have an Edge sail based upon your description, not necessarily the weapon of choice for open water, but good inland.

I suspect that faffing around with tuning is not your style, but tuning the rig of a Solo is relatively straight forward ... you have two choice mast step positions ... outside of transom to front of mast circa 3055 or 3070mm.  The former gives you best headroom when tacking, and gives you downwind speed at the expense of upwind.  The latter requires more yoga skills, giving you upwind speed at the expense of downwind.

Once you have decided on the mast step position, you can set the shrouds (do this without the sail or boom in place), you want the shrouds just in tension with around a 10mm gap between the front of the mast and the front of the gate. 

And to step the forestay, have the back of the mast touching the back of the gate, with the forestay in tension, and let off one or two holes on the forestay chainplate.

Generally we sail with a 1/2 inch chock in front of the mast, except in very light winds, when you could back chock, or if you are very overpowered when you might consider removing the chock (I never do this).

The other variable is the traveler, and the rule of thumb is to keep the end of the boom over the inside face of the side tank in lighter conditions, and transition to over the deck edge when it breezes up.  I usually aim to have the traveller car with one track bolt off the c/l just showing in most conditions.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 11:22am
So according to that list this mast suits my weight?

The 14.1 measurement, what does that mean? 14.1, where is that explained to folk? and 9.8 Athwart? I assume it's 14.1 fore and aft, and the 9.8 is sideways, I wonder what the chances are that the sailmaker was given those figures and then even knew what they meant and what to do with them. I've certainly not seen any sign of it in carbon masts and luff curve matches in the dinghy sails I've seen to date.

Then I struggle with the fact that the mast is stayed, so is restricted, so it can only bend beyond the top in what we'd refer to as 'flex top' masts, then you have the fact the sail is fully battened and as such you wouldn't want too much flex other than at the head because the chord will get all out of kilter and you'll have all sorts of ghastly creasing.

Which is why the concept of 'constant curve' evolved so any chord degradation is uniform across the entire mast, again impossible in a mast such as these.

So back to my C sleeve, where is the 'sleeve', inside the mast? How far up does it go? Am i dealing with a flex top, I assume I must be. The mast must be stiffer in the lower area to resist the kicker forces.

I can't remember, are there spreaders on a Solo, to complicate things further? I don't recall seeing any, but if not why not, I seem to remember having them on the Solution, it's got an ally mast and they seem to think they're necessary..

Gets complicated all this doesn't it?

So you get to think as I do, it's 90% BS and best not to let it get in your head or you'll never sail confidently.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 11:27am
Originally posted by davidyacht

C sleeved would have been the choice mast for the lighter weight, so nothing wrong with that, especially at the lake.  My guess is that you have an Edge sail based upon your description, not necessarily the weapon of choice for open water, but good inland.
I suspect that faffing around with tuning is not your style, but tuning the rig of a Solo is relatively straight forward ... you have two choice mast step positions ... outside of transom to front of mast circa 3055 or 3070mm.  The former gives you best headroom when tacking, and gives you downwind speed at the expense of upwind.  The latter requires more yoga skills, giving you upwind speed at the expense of downwind.
Once you have decided on the mast step position, you can set the shrouds (do this without the sail or boom in place), you want the shrouds just in tension with around a 10mm gap between the front of the mast and the front of the gate. 
And to step the forestay, have the back of the mast touching the back of the gate, with the forestay in tension, and let off one or two holes on the forestay chainplate.
Generally we sail with a 1/2 inch chock in front of the mast, except in very light winds, when you could back chock, or if you are very overpowered when you might consider removing the chock (I never do this).
The other variable is the traveler, and the rule of thumb is to keep the end of the boom over the inside face of the side tank in lighter conditions, and transition to over the deck edge when it breezes up.  I usually aim to have the traveller car with one track bolt off the c/l just showing in most conditions.
Thanks for this I'd written the following post before I read this, so thanks again, quite helpful and thanks Fatboi I'm not trying to be deliberately obtuse but I'm so sceptical of sailing BS and try to sort the fact from the black art fiction that they love to muddy the water with, some of which is so opposite to the hard earned knowledge I've accrued over the years in the other world.

Edited by iGRF - 24 Apr 19 at 11:29am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote davidyacht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 11:59am
You could think of a Solo mast as though it was free standing, basically pinned at the mast step and at the gate.  The shrouds (no spreaders) limit the bend to prevent the tube collapsing.

The numbers quoted relate to the sectional modulus, or relative stiffness of the section.  I seem to remember back in the day that sailboard masts were sold based on stiffness numbers (gold 7.0, green 7.4 and red Serfiacs 7.8), the lighter you are, the softer the prefered mast.

Ref. the C sleeved; the usual point of collapse (of what is a thinner section) is at the mast gate, where the mast can buckle, but by inserting an internal sleeve (I think to above the gooseneck) this possibility is reduced.  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ColPrice2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 19 at 7:11am
Most Solo sailmakers will accommodate the mast type when cutting the sail - provided that they're told.

Second hand sails - specially the budget or via several hands - are a bit of a challenge though.
You'll often find adverts for s/hand masts in the class website as people change their rig.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ian.r.mcdonald Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 19 at 6:24pm
[QUOTE=iGRF] Had no problem with them up wind or surprisingly on a dead run, but it was a reaching course and I had trouble with speed out of the turns one bugger even managed to go round the outside and still nail me, there seems to be a lot of boat 'under' the water with the subsequent 'football' effect. (If you'ever tried towing a round ball or buoy the more power it dives down) but the upside in the lulls, which sadly there were not enough of it was quite breezy, it does roll on when the Lasers slow down it's got good 'glide' potential, which would probably be a whole lot better once I've dumped all that lead over the side. ;-)
How much are they supposed to weigh? I should think over the years it can't have gotten lighter, I looked it up it was built by Speed sails in 2008 so it's over ten years old, you must be able to legitimately lose the lead as the boat ages.[/QUOTE

Its not a universal problem, but check the gel coat to make sure there us no separation and that you are not carrying water between the two layers.
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