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Solo Bloody Solo

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davidyacht View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote davidyacht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 11:14am
C sleeved would have been the choice mast for the lighter weight, so nothing wrong with that, especially at the lake.  My guess is that you have an Edge sail based upon your description, not necessarily the weapon of choice for open water, but good inland.

I suspect that faffing around with tuning is not your style, but tuning the rig of a Solo is relatively straight forward ... you have two choice mast step positions ... outside of transom to front of mast circa 3055 or 3070mm.  The former gives you best headroom when tacking, and gives you downwind speed at the expense of upwind.  The latter requires more yoga skills, giving you upwind speed at the expense of downwind.

Once you have decided on the mast step position, you can set the shrouds (do this without the sail or boom in place), you want the shrouds just in tension with around a 10mm gap between the front of the mast and the front of the gate. 

And to step the forestay, have the back of the mast touching the back of the gate, with the forestay in tension, and let off one or two holes on the forestay chainplate.

Generally we sail with a 1/2 inch chock in front of the mast, except in very light winds, when you could back chock, or if you are very overpowered when you might consider removing the chock (I never do this).

The other variable is the traveler, and the rule of thumb is to keep the end of the boom over the inside face of the side tank in lighter conditions, and transition to over the deck edge when it breezes up.  I usually aim to have the traveller car with one track bolt off the c/l just showing in most conditions.
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Fatboi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Fatboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 10:09am
Yes I do, the wall thickness of the Ali and the profile, as well as if there is a sleeve will make a huge difference! The difference between the wavelength masts and Selden D-Plus is huge! When I was smaller I had a wavelength and wavelength sail. It was an amazing combo and great for sub 75kgs. 

Your mast could be a few variations. Table below taken from Sailboats, which is a useful guide.

SectionSailo WeightStiffness F/AStiffness Athwart
C Sleeved<75Kg14.19.8
D Plus75-90Kg20.013.8
Cumulus>90Kg>90Kg 14.4


Edited by Fatboi - 24 Apr 19 at 10:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 9:00am
Originally posted by Fatboi

If you are overpoered leave the chocks out. It will allow the mast to bend a bit more and depower.
What mast do you have with it? There are quite a few different ones, all with different stiffnesses and suited to differing weights. 
And you believe that? It's Metal, so crap, it's a Selden C-Sleeved whatever that means, I doubt very much if it's likely to bend much at all, that's the thing with ally if you let it bend any distance where it's likely to work, it'll stay bent.

But thanks for the info about the chocks, it was a bit breezy the first couple of times so I bunged one in the front to rake the mast a bit in order to depower a tad.

It does however have a very nice sail, well, very nice for the late seventies early eighties, feels like a CYT, with a composite laminate trailing edge, very tuneable, takes me back to my almost youth.

I shall give it another go this avo, there might be other Solos to compare against, it's all very well trying to keep up with Lasers which makes you do all sorts of not exactly dirty tricks, but lets call it obstructive tactics which I don't like doing, never have, much nicer to sail free and as fast as possible which only works if the other boats are not inherently faster than you doesn't it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Fatboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 8:16am
If you are overpoered leave the chocks out. It will allow the mast to bend a bit more and depower.

What mast do you have with it? There are quite a few different ones, all with different stiffnesses and suited to differing weights. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 19 at 6:43pm
Yes, I forgot, it's got these blue mast wedgey things, I bunged one in the front so the mast raked a bit and it looked 'right'. It's got continuous lines like the Solution and in the same place, so not difficult to switch from one boat to another, my Farr 3.7 also has continuous control lines also in the same place.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote davidyacht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 19 at 9:49am
Originally posted by ColPrice2002


It's all much easier with continuous control lines.

Had several Solos without continuous lines, though last two have had them.  Really is a case for line management ... balance them up on the downwind legs.  If you are to have only one continuous line make it the kicker ... it is possible to set up continuous lines without drilling holes in the capping ... which is a painful job using many drill bits.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ColPrice2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 19 at 8:54am
The tuning guides indicate that more mast rake upwind is faster. Because the Solo has a hot stepped mast and a slot in the foredeck, the range of rake is limited. That means balancing upwind/downwind performance, so most top competition sailors go for upwind performance, lots of mast rake. Many older helms (me!), Will have moderate rake, leaving space to tack/gybe.

Tacking across the hull helps a lot (turn into wind, roll the hull on top of you, stand up when the boom goes over your head, and change sides).
Gybing you let the kicker off.

It's all much easier with continuous control lines.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 423zero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 19 at 8:17am
We have a couple of Solo's at my club, can't say I have noticed them struggling to get under the boom, one of them is well over 6foot.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote davidyacht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 19 at 10:02pm
Speed hull should be a good one, same mould as Winder Mk2 which is deriguer.

Reaching speed is about sailing dead flat, not being over boarded (lift the plate till the helm goes light) and sheet on a single purchase straight from the boom.

You need to set up the mast as per the tuning guides; what mast and sail are you using?

By the way, yes I think Jack would have done something different with today’s technology, but for all its faults it offers very good racing.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ColPrice2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 19 at 9:03pm
I've had another Solo sail over me on a reach - probably new/old sail problem...

If you want to lose the lead, it's a remeasurement. If it's frp, then it probably not gained too much weight, wooden hulls may be a bit heavier, but it shouldn't make too much difference ( max 3kg lead correctors).

Lasers are faster on a reach, unfortunately...
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