J24 (Sail No. 4239) Dartmouth |
29er GBR 074 Tynemouth |
Laurent Giles 'Jolly Boat' Exeter |
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RS200 Main Halyard |
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Topic: RS200 Main Halyard Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 5:45pm |
Yeah, that would be fine.
However, it's a big unit right where the jib sheet catches during tacks. I'd want the lowest possible profile there. Plus it costs 6x as much. The main benefit to the spinlock is it doesn't accidentally re cleat. Not really a design advantage on a main halyard. I'd really just stick with a clam cleat. There is no reason it should slip with a good halyard. More so if you don't run the halyard through it when hoisting then they should never wear out. |
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Wiclif
Groupie Joined: 04 Oct 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 79 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 6:11pm |
There are 2 versions of this cleat.
The silver coloured one is powder coated and bits tend to chip off the surface. The less visually attractive one is a greyish colour and is anodised. This version is vastly superior.
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Oatsandbeans
Far too distracted from work Joined: 19 Sep 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 382 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 6:43pm |
It is a complete pain if the haliyard slips or even stretches, as it mess up all the settings on the rig. I never sorted this out with different haliyards or other tricks. One thing that did work ( but was a bit of a hassle), was to take the halyard from the cleat up to the goose neck and round it. Put a bight in the lower bit and get a 2:1 from the gooseneck to wind the tension on the haliyard, then tie it off. Not pretty but it wouldn't move from there.
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ClubRacer
Far too distracted from work Joined: 26 Sep 15 Online Status: Offline Posts: 210 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 7:16pm |
Not allowed to make it 2:1 due to class rules
Replace the cleat with an anodised version not the cheaper silver one Move the (I assume you use a bobble in the end of it) 6 inches so the rope cleats in a new spot at the bottom If the halyard even remotely looks worn/old just replace it with some 4mm Kingfisher evo race (has to be dyneema core or kevlar or it will stretch/snap). The mast is 7m~ long so 15m will give you plenty. Every 3 months chop 6 inches off, every year end for end it, every 2 replace it. Always make sure the cleat gets a wash after sailing as they don't take much to start corroding. Obviously this differs depending on how much use it gets. If yours is anything like mine the location of the cleat + block means you cant pull the halyard up without it going through the cleat. If so then tie a new block onto the mast step and route it that way. Pic below |
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Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 8:25pm |
Are you sure?
The cleat should line up with the front side of the exit hole, so offset by about 5mm. If you hoist with the halyard out of the cleat and to aft of the cleat it will run around the cleat. The offset isn't obvious, but is there. But even without the offset it should be possible to hoist with it out of the cleat and not going in, just there will be a tad more friction as it bends around the outside of the cleat. Its not a massive issue if you hoist through the cleat, but you'l probably be replacing it each season. I've never had to replace mine, and that's with the silver version. |
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ClubRacer
Far too distracted from work Joined: 26 Sep 15 Online Status: Offline Posts: 210 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 8:38pm |
It was the friction I didn't like. The additional benefit of attaching the block to the mast step is that it wont eventually pull the rivet from the top of the lacing eye out the mast and leave a gaping hole
Edited by ClubRacer - 20 Nov 18 at 8:40pm |
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Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 20 Nov 18 at 8:49pm |
Ha, yeah, no pulling the block off is something that's happened to me, trying to hoist without it in a rush for race!
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Charliecat5
Newbie Joined: 20 Nov 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 21 Nov 18 at 9:28am |
Thanks all for your responses. I think a new cleat and potentially a new block on the mast step is in order. Particularly as the block has already come off!
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Ardea
Groupie Joined: 06 Oct 15 Online Status: Offline Posts: 70 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 21 Nov 18 at 9:45am |
This is a really nice article (probably ott for most), but shows some really neat options for rigging the boat. Also covers most of the rigging in one photo or another.
http://www.rsireland.com/tips/rs-200-mods |
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Oinks
Far too distracted from work Joined: 24 Oct 14 Location: Bandol Online Status: Offline Posts: 267 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 21 Nov 18 at 9:12pm |
I've trashed so many halliards on my 400 over the years, and yet again this last weekend. There is an issue with an edge in the mast sheave that we've tried to file down, but to little effect. When this next one goes, it'll be a wire halliard on a hook up.
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