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Sam.Spoons View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Sam.Spoons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Enterprise Rigging
    Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 11:13pm
A new jib furler would probably cost as much as a new jib..... but they are useful :) For crusing though I'd be inclined to keep things as simple as possible. use a rope strop to join the top of the jib to the halliard shackle and a lashing at the bottom of the forestay. Can't beat belt and braces (and, for cruising, add an extra piece of string...)
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jackselby3000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 10:01pm
I think maybe a furler for my jib could be the simplest answer. Class rules wont be an issue where shell be. Biggest issues will be keeping her out of the way of other boats and me out of the drink and in the pub.

Thanks again for all the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rupert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 8:23pm
Whilst Enterprises don't and aren't allowed to race with a jib furler, it could be useful for cruising, and would explain why the halyard isn't long enough with the jib mounted low down.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote 423zero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 6:16pm
I have an Enterprise, their are also several at my club, wooden ones, composite and GRP, all have the fitting shown in JimC's link, (almost certain furling jib not class legal).
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jackselby3000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 1:36pm
Thanks Jim,

Ill order some Dyneema now. I fear this will just be the start of questions though but what an efficient resource.

Thank you again for all the swift replies.
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 1:01pm
Yes, that's a furler fitting on the top. It may well be the other gubbins at the bottom was associated with a now vanished furler. Its certainly not conventional.

Yes, generally jibs are better closer to the deck, but the odd inch is neither here nor there for your purposes. So yep, I'd buy a metre of 1mm dyneema and put a lashing between shackle and halyard to make the length work, and a couple of clevis pins on the bottom.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jackselby3000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 12:52pm
Thanks Jim, it could be entirely my error as by the stage wed got to that point I was willing to go with what ever father suggested to keep the peace.

http://www.flyfishergroup.com/images/JIB.jpg

This is what the top of the Jib currently looks like. I have a forged shackle on the halyard that goes into the top of this black swivel thingy. This was what made me wonder about the furling base.

I take it from your comment Jim that the jib is better closer to the deck than higher? Im never going to race her or take her out in strong winds but your point about lose the jib and the mast comes down now makes total sense. Taking her out in late March so will have a tinker about with her then and see what I can fashion.

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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 12:02pm
That's definitely someone's weird idea. and I don't think its doing anything useful. I'd change back to something more conventional. Apart from anything else it means a failure in either halyard or forestay will see the mast coming down, which is a very bad idea.

I'd remove both bolts, the blocks/pulleys/rollers and the wire and discard them.
Install standard clevis pins. Just tie the forestay to the front pin with a length of line, just taut enough so the mast doesn't doesn't rattle about in the wind when the jib is off.

Depending on the fine detail of the foot of the sail you can probably just shackle the jib straight to the clevis pin.
At the top of the jib you'll need to gain a little distance to get the halyard to reach. Is there a shackle or what? I would get a forged shackle (ie made from round metal not strip) and a metre of 1mm dyneema rope and make a lashing to get the distance right between shackle and the existing halyard. There are expensive forged shackles that have captive pins. I think they are well worth the money to end up with an undroppable pin...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jackselby3000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 11:24am
http://www.flyfishergroup.com/images/ENT.jpg

Thank you all for the replies. In the image linked above there is a shackle keeping both loops on the wire together. To the right of this is a swivel with a clevis pin which was where I first attached the jib. However when attached there the wire halyard does not reach the hook on the highfield lever. Therefore what we tried was the forestay on one loop of the wire and the jib on the other. The rollers you can see then allow the tension created at the highfield to be shared equally between the forestay and jip wire.

My fear is that with a strong wind the junction of the mast and forestay will be stressed. If the forestay is supposed to be slackened by tensioning the jib then I will put the forestay in both wire loops and work a way to fill the gap between the bottom of the jib and clevis pin. It may be that the previous owner had a furling unit there.

It seemed like a great way to share the tension equally but has been niggling me since. Thank you again for quick replies.

Edited by jackselby3000 - 07 Mar 18 at 11:26am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jaydub Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 18 at 10:09am
Originally posted by Eisvogel

(There's a colon missing after the https in the URL)

Agree with all the above, however I'm struggling with your description of "The bow plate had two rollers and a short double looped wire through it."  A photo would definitely help.
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