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Tmay1991 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tmay1991 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: new sailor, new project
    Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 12:44am
Good evening all, the wife and I have decided to get ourselves into sailing and being some one who likes fixing things we have bought an older miracle, i believe it to be sail #705 so quite old. Unfortunately she has been a little neglected in the in the last few few years and also missing a few fittings and a few ropes.

we plan to strip and re-varnish the decks and sand and repaint the hull over winter before getting ourselves into the water in spring. 

can anybody please recommend rope sizes for replacement main and jib halyards, main and jib sheets, kicking strap and Cunningham aswell as out haul and down haul for the main, as al of the above are long past their best or missing

cheers chaps

Tom  
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 5:55am
If ropes look like hell but aren't actually frayed or rotten, try chucking them through the washing machine. Amazing the difference it makes.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote MerlinMags Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 9:04am
Halyards usually want to be as thin as you can bear to handle. This makes them run easier through the mast and sheaves.

Mainsheet and jib sheets used to be as thick as 10mm but these days many racing sailors prefer them thinner. Look at the size of the hole in the blocks (pulleys) they have to run through. Or rather, the size of the sheave.

You might want to test a few old ropes in the cleats too, to make sure they are not too small (slip through) or large (don't fit in).

Kicker, cunningham etc might also be limited by the small blocks they run through. There won't be an issue with strength as tiny ropes can take a heck of a lot. It's more about what you can grip comfortably, and what blocks/cleats you've already got.
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Paramedic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Paramedic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 9:16am
On a Miracle there will be no need to venture above 4mm on halyards or control lines. Polyester will be fine for sail controls, but you will probably want a higher spec (Dyneema core) for the main halyard to stop the sail creeping down the mast. the jib halyard i would have thought should be wire, though maybe yours is a bit old for that? 

8mm is fine for sheets, you would probably get away with 6mm on a miracle but i wouldn't go bigger or smaller.

On a boat this old you will probably find that some of the fittings are past it too - be careful how much you spend here, hundreds of pounds fit into a surprisingly small jiffy bag!! keep an eye on ebay or Facebook for used bits, they come up frequently. Only buy decent stuff though.
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 10:24am
Originally posted by Paramedic

Only buy decent stuff though.

Kinda tricky to tell a knackered block from a good one on ebay isn't it?
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Tmay1991 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tmay1991 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 2:10pm
The current halyards look like 2ply twisted nylon and have started to frey and have gone all hard, the sheaves look serviceable for now. On the main sheets there is currently only 2mm dynema attaching the clew and tack to the boom with a pair of clamcleats fitted either end, these look new but I don't trust the 2mm so was thinking of using 4mm at a minimum. Could anyone link me to some suitable dyneama for the halyards? Also what is the best way to stop the tack at the foot of the sail pulling away from the boom?
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JimC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 3:35pm
Think 2mm dyneema is rated at over 200kg, so that would be some sheetloads!
That would be three strand pre stretched terylene for the halyards, which was pretty much the best we could get at the beginning of the 70s. Really with most dinghy jobs and dyneema the limiting factor is how hard you can pull a thin rope (and whether the existing cleats will grip), you can almost ignore breaking strain as a factor.
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Paramedic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Paramedic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 5:57pm
Originally posted by JimC

Originally posted by Paramedic

Only buy decent stuff though.

Kinda tricky to tell a knackered block from a good one on ebay isn't it?

Yes and no - its not that hard to tell a mid jurassic sea sure from a half decent harken one :p




Edited by Paramedic - 11 Oct 15 at 5:57pm
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Tmay1991 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tmay1991 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 7:09pm
finally got photo bucket to sort itself out so thought i would pop a few photos up of our little Miracle, a reasonable amount of work but nothing that is particularly scary, she has lasted this long so with some help hopefully she will do me and the wife a good number of years


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Time Lord View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Time Lord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 15 at 7:59pm
If you haven't come across it already try the repairs and restoration section of cvrda.org (Classic and Vintage dinghy association). Lots of helpful info on repair and maintenance of wooden boats.

2mm dyneema easily capable of securing your main to boom: I use it on my Merlin to secure the outhaul.
Merlin Rocket 3609
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