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RS200 Continuous Kicker and what else?

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fab100 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote fab100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 13 at 7:25pm
Don't have mine any more to photograph, but if i remember correctly, my continuous kicker led thru a couple of stainless curtain rings attached to the black plastic grab-rails. Brings it out and to hand when hiking. Then I think there was another on the centreline as stated above.

Measure carefully and allow for the amount of rope doubled up in the splice. Better too long than too short. I used Excel Control and followed the Marlow YouTube splicing video - makes a pretty much invisible splice.

For the tack, rather than the strap, try making up a rope shackle with a spliced loop at one end and bobble on the other. Lead thru the cringle, around the mast and toggle together. I never bothered with a tack tie-down - the sneaky pig (cunning-ham, groan) does that job fine.

Whilst bimbling, I used to find the boom jumps off the gooseneck in a gybe when the kicker is off and the wind light. Cure with a slim split pin that goes thru a hole drilled in the boom and into another in the gooseneck post.


Edited by fab100 - 15 Apr 13 at 7:26pm
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jharvey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jharvey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 13 at 8:03pm
This is a photo of one side showing the eye that is attached to the grab rail. The rope goes across just in front of the mainsheet block.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote CoastWaterSports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 13 at 8:17pm
Aha, I see, thank you for taking the time to do that

Cheers

Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GybeFunny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 13 at 7:13am
In my old 200 I routed the continuous kicker from the cleat to a ring attached to the grab rail (like the pic above, then over the front of the thwart, back up behind the thwart, through a little fairlead mounted between mainsheet block and back of thwart and then under thwart and over it and back to the ring on the opposite side. This keeps the long loop of excess rope out from under your feet a bit as I found that it washed back a bit when it was windy and I kept getting tied up in it!
Also remove mainsheet cleat.
Fit righting lines.
To keep the tack down run the cunningham up, through the normal larger eye, down round a pin that you add to the front of the boom and then dead end it after passing it through the bottom eye, that way when you pull the cunninghamon it also pulls the bottom down.
Definitely run the mainsheet outside the boom but support it for at least 80% of its external run, just duct tape some OHP slides under the boom to cover it.
Make sure that you dont have the original 8:1 kicker, you can change to a 12:1 using a cascade or 16:1 if you buy an extra triple (??) pulley.
Some people prefer 1:1 mainsheet, others a 2:1 so try both and see which you prefer.
You could fit a spinlock for the kite halyard if you still have the cam cleat.
Have you got a floating block behind the kite halyard cleat, you definitely need one.
You should also remove the tweaker line from the mast and you should route the kite halyard through the lower of the 2 mast pulleys, the tweaker line will inevitably fail when you dont want it to. If you only have the plastic gromet in the tweaker line hole then move the pulley from the upper hole to the tweaker line exit point.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote transient Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 13 at 7:55am
Thanks for the explanation of the tack Smile appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CoastWaterSports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 13 at 11:43am
Originally posted by GybeFunny

In my old 200 I routed the continuous kicker from the cleat to a ring attached to the grab rail (like the pic above, then over the front of the thwart, back up behind the thwart, through a little fairlead mounted between mainsheet block and back of thwart and then under thwart and over it and back to the ring on the opposite side. This keeps the long loop of excess rope out from under your feet a bit as I found that it washed back a bit when it was windy and I kept getting tied up in it!
Also remove mainsheet cleat.
Fit righting lines.
To keep the tack down run the cunningham up, through the normal larger eye, down round a pin that you add to the front of the boom and then dead end it after passing it through the bottom eye, that way when you pull the cunninghamon it also pulls the bottom down.
Definitely run the mainsheet outside the boom but support it for at least 80% of its external run, just duct tape some OHP slides under the boom to cover it.
Make sure that you dont have the original 8:1 kicker, you can change to a 12:1 using a cascade or 16:1 if you buy an extra triple (??) pulley.
Some people prefer 1:1 mainsheet, others a 2:1 so try both and see which you prefer.
You could fit a spinlock for the kite halyard if you still have the cam cleat.
Have you got a floating block behind the kite halyard cleat, you definitely need one.
You should also remove the tweaker line from the mast and you should route the kite halyard through the lower of the 2 mast pulleys, the tweaker line will inevitably fail when you dont want it to. If you only have the plastic gromet in the tweaker line hole then move the pulley from the upper hole to the tweaker line exit point.

Thanks for the detailed information. I can see I've got a busyy weekend ahead off me :)

Much appreciated everyone whos helped

Dave
-- Dinghy Chandlery - Axminster --

http://www.coastwatersports.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CoastWaterSports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 13 at 10:48am
Update...

I got the boat on the water for the first time yesterday (after finding and repairing a hole in it which i didn't know about, and wasn't pointed out to me when i bought it) and the continuous kicker works great.

I've uploaded some pics showing what I did in the end if anyone interested

-- Dinghy Chandlery - Axminster --

http://www.coastwatersports.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jaydub Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 13 at 6:07pm
I'm not entirely sure that the use of a turning block is class legal, although having had a quick look at the rules I can't actually see anything that forbids it.
 
Can anybody clarify, please.  I'm interested anyway because I'm about to convert our boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CoastWaterSports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 13 at 6:44pm
Really? I hadn't thought of that, my last 5 boats were 14's so you could pretty much chuck anything you wanted on them, so it never crossed my mind. I cant imagine that it could be deemed as a competitive advantage, but who knows... 


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Post Options Post Options   Quote CoastWaterSports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 13 at 7:08pm
That said how are you supposed to return the rope if you cant use blocks?
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